Why do my bearings sound rough as hell...?

[Maz]

...when I've just re-greased them?

I took the cassette off, removed the axle. Removed the bearings from the cassette-side and non-cassette side (9 of each, taking care not to mix them up).
Regreased them with Park's Polylube 1000 (bearing grease) & re-assembled.

Now, freewheeling sounds rougher than ever! Rear wheel will only spin for about 10seconds before it comes to a standstill.

WTF have I done, or not done, as the case may be? Only thing I can think of is that I might have overtightened the axle when re-assembling.

Any ideas?

 

[PatrickPending]

...when I've just re-greased them?



<snip> Only thing I can think of is that I might have overtightened the axle when re-assembling.

Any ideas?

exactly what I was thinking, try loosening the cones just a bit.......

 

[gbb]

99.9% sure to be as PP says..
Remove the wheel. Work on the non drive side, undo the locknut and back it off a little. With a cone spanner, then back off the cone a little until the wheel spins freely, without any play. When you're happy its spinning freely, keeping the cone spanner on the cone, tighten the locknut up to the cone. make sure the cone does'nt tun on the axle while you're locking it up or test spinning the wheel.
TBF, ive done hubs loads of times...it doesnt always work first time.
Is it a QR axle ?. I think you need to have a little extra play when setting the bearings up, then when you tighten the QR, it takes the play out. I always found QR hubs a little harder to set up...just keep making adjustments till it feels right.
Its all good fun

 

[Davidc]

Very much as gbb's post above, but two observations.

As you adjust the cone you should find a sweet-spot where the wheel runs smoothly with no play. If you do that's where you want it.

If you can't find that spot, and have to have a small amount of play before the wheel runs freely then replace the bearings (both sides).

 

[Moodyman]

As you adjust the cone you should find a sweet-spot where the wheel runs smoothly with no play. If you do that's where you want it.

In my experience, finding the sweet-spot was a pain. I put the axle in the wrong way round - didn't think it mattered as they look the same on both sides. But it did make a difference and it took me several attempts over 4 months to get it perfect.

 

[guitarpete247]

I agree with what all others have said.
Another thing to check is that the axle is still straight. It may sound strange but I remember having to change my rear axle a few (too many) years ago (alright at least 20 years ago) as I had bent it. Is it hollow for the q/r skewer. Look throught the hole for the skewer like looking down a tunnel and seeing the bend ahead.

I must have been heavier then as I had to change 2 but only the rear .

 

[Maz]

Many thanks, everyone!

I've readjusted as per above and it's a lot better. I'm sure I didn't hit the sweet-spot, but it's a heck of a lot better now.

Yes, gbb, it is a QR rear wheel - thanks for the hint.

Note: Initially I was tempted to remove/replace the freehub, but couldn't figure out how to remove it. I looked at these instructions (step 3) which shows someone using a 10mm hex wrench, but this was impossible on my freehub...my 10mm wrench was much too small and, moreover, there didn't seem to be any hex-shaped hole of any description down the centre of the freehub (I could see through the hole from one side to the other).

http://www.bikeradar...r-freehub-23757

It will need replacing eventually, so how would I remove it?

 

[Oldlegs]

What wheels do you have? 10mm hex is standard for Shimano.

 

[Maz]

What wheels do you have? 10mm hex is standard for Shimano.

I can't remember off hand what wheels it has. Will check tomorrow if I remember.
Edit: The full spec is here, it's an '08 Specialized Allez Elite:
http://www.evanscycl...d-bike-ec001387

Maybe my freehub is one of the Shimano 'lookalike' hubs:

Shimano lookalike freehubs, made by companies such as Joy Tech, can be a bit trickier to remove. The retaining bolt will usually be removed from the left side, inside the hub shell, requiring a longer, more stout Allen key.

 

[potsy]

I remember having similar 'fun' when I did my rear wheel the first time Maz, turned a 20 minute job into a 2 hour nightmare

Been fine since though, must re-do it soon after the winter crud has gone.

 

[Oldlegs]

It's an own brand Specialized hub - pass on this one! Doubtless someone will be on shortly who has the knowledge.

If not I wouldn't worry. Freehub bodies are very robust bits of kit and tend to outlast budget wheels.