Winter tyres and ice?

[Pat "5mph"]

I've got a bike with a spare wheel set, fitted with ice spikers.
I leave that wheel set on from end October onwards. This winter, so far, I have been out on the spikers just 4 times: twice because it was really icy, twice when it was not, but could have been by the time I finished my shift.
I also got a bike fitted with Marathon winters that needs repairs at the moment, but was used all last winter ... until we got snow and I found out the hard way that the Winters are not good in fresh snow.
All I know about winter tyres I learned from @fossyant

 

[sazzaa]

Just don't cycle when its icy and save a lot of grief if you can?

Like i said before, cars had no frost and it really didn't look icy! But yes i see your point.

 

[mrmacmusic]

I run the Schwalbe Winter, which is nominally 30c (although I have not put them on my new Genesis yet as I'll have to remove the guards). If clearance is very tight running the tyres at a much lower psi reduces the longitudinal profile.

...but if you run the M Winters at low pressure all the time, you might run the risk of studs poking through the tyre's carcass and puncturing your inner tube.

 

[mrmacmusic]

Downside of running studded tyres is that their sound on Tarmac is reminiscent of frying bacon & as such, makes me hungry during the commute. Rode past two accidents & resultant traffic queues this morning but had to stop at the bakery for a breakfast roll. Damn you, Marathon Winters! *shakes fist*

Oh I don't know... I find it's more of a healthy "snap, crackle and pop" sound, and that it's strangely re-assuring to hear on an isolated wintery commute. Having said that, I now want a bacon roll

 

[mickle]

Its worth remembering that front and rear tyres behave differently at the point they lose grip. If the front loses grip theres absolutely nothing you can do to stay upright - the bike will disappear from under you. If the rear wheel loses grip it goes away more slowly and is very often recoverable.
Two spiked tyres is obvs the best option for proper ice - but a reasonable compromise is the use of a stuuded tyre on the front only. Minimising cost and faff - especially if set up on a spare wheel which will allow you to swap it out in a matter of moments.

Im in the process of building up an old steel hardtail for icy conditions. At the rate its going it should be ready by the summer...

 

[mrmacmusic]

Its worth remembering that front and rear tyres behave differently at the point they lose grip. If the front loses grip theres absolutely nothing you can do to stay upright - the bike will disappear from under you. If the rear wheel loses grip it goes away more slowly and is very often recoverable.
Two spiked tyres is obvs the best option for proper ice - but a reasonable compromise is the use of a stuuded tyre on the front only. Minimising cost and faff - especially if set up on a spare wheel which will allow you to swap it out in a matter of moments.

Interesting thought, particularly as I currently have a spare front wheel..... hmm. Although I'm running studs front and rear, I have considered a "studs front/knobbly rear" approach, wondering if this might be a better solution all round for when it's less icy and more snowy..? At the end of the day I've just done the same this winter as last, opting to "fit and forget" the studded tyres – they've been on for a few months now, but have only really come into play on one or two commutes so far... better safe than sorry I reckon.

 

[Amanda P]

Downside of running studded tyres is that their sound on Tarmac is reminiscent of frying bacon & as such, makes me hungry during the commute. Rode past two accidents & resultant traffic queues this morning but had to stop at the bakery for a breakfast roll. Damn you, Marathon Winters! *shakes fist*

The extra effort it takes to roll those studded tyres more than outweighs the energy intake from the bacon butty - plus you get the pleasure of eating the butty.

That's my excuse anyway, and I'm sticking to it.

 

[Origamist]

...but if you run the M Winters at low pressure all the time, you might run the risk of studs poking through the tyre's carcass and puncturing your inner tube.

Is this a known problem? I have never heard of it being an issue.

I run mine at just over half the recommended PSI and it has never caused a problem with the studs puncturing the tube. A bigger issue is losing studs, IME.

 

[Supersuperleeds]

Is this a known problem? I have never heard of it being an issue.

I run mine at just over half the recommended PSI and it has never caused a problem with the studs puncturing the tube. A bigger issue is losing studs, IME.

I had a stud go through the carcass and puncture the inner tube last winter, I don't know if it was to do with low pressures or not, however I only lost two or three studs.

 

[mrmacmusic]

Is this a known problem? I have never heard of it being an issue.

I run mine at just over half the recommended PSI and it has never caused a problem with the studs puncturing the tube. A bigger issue is losing studs, IME.

I certainly hadn't heard of it being an issue before I invested in a pair of MW at the beginning of last winter, but my rear tyre did fail and I suspect running at too low a pressure (for too long) was the reason.

 

[fossyant]

Never had any issues with studs either falling out or poking through