absolute beginner

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Gravity Aided

Legendary Member
Location
Land of Lincoln
After my running times were over, I had no regular exercise program. Getting back on the bicycle at 44 was like getting on a jet airplane compared to running. Low impact, high enjoyment. That makes participants more likely to stick with it, just realize it is not painless. No shin splints or side stitches, but still plenty of opportunity to get the hurt on, as it were. Enjoy, but watch the overdoing and stress injury. And a good bike fitting will be helpful as well. This will help you to maximize your potential, and lessen the hazard of injury and pain on the bike.
 
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thunderlips76

thunderlips76

climbs for cake
Location
BARNSLEY
ok so been to halfords and looked and got on, some of their carreras, looks like i'm a 51cm frame wise ( very short legs).
 

Sharky

Guru
Location
Kent
but every guide says I should be on a 54. is there a practical way of measuring the frame size. I was on the bike with feet flat to the floor the top bar of the frame was, i'd say an inch from my erm.......crotch. Is this correct?. And I thought buying running shoes was a minefield.


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Carrera-V...1552507047?pt=UK_Bikes_GL&hash=item3f39ca6ca7



LIKE THE LOOK OF THIS

Ignore any measurement which starts at floor level.
Sit on the saddle, with your heal over the pedal axle at the lowest point of the rotation and your leg should be completely straight. Then when you move your foot so that the ball of the foot is over the pedal axle, your leg should now be slightly bent at the knee - never locking out straight.

You won't be able to touch the floor when sitting on the saddle, but this a rough starting point for efficient riding. You just have to learn to slide off the saddle as you come to a stopping point.

Cheers Keith
 

Profpointy

Legendary Member
couple of hints, in no particular order, which a so-called beginner might not be aware of....

You don't need or want suspension for cycling on road or even smoothish tracks (towpaths etc). Suspension is "a bad thing" unless actually mountain biking.

Likewise - smooth tyres for the road - easier to pedal, and grip is down to rubber compound not tread. Tread is to prevent aquaplaning in the wet, which is physically impossible on a push-bike.

Saddle - padded saddles are "a bad thing" and not the answer to comfort. A saddle that suits you is the answer (tricky to find for some. I favour Brooks leather saddles, but they don't suit everyone). Padded shorts, whilst generally "a good thing" are not essential and emphatically not the answer to a bad saddle.

Don't dismiss drop handlebars as "being only for racers" or somesuch -the have lots of benefits for nearly anyone - choice of hand positions, ducking down if there's a headwind, etc.

Most "road" bikes are geared rather high for many people, dare I say for most people. Bike shops push a "compact double" saying it's just as low-geared as a triple - this isn't strictly true. This last point is somewhat controversial, but many want lower gears, few want them higher than they've got - more or less important depending on how hilly your area is.

Mudguards are "a good thing" . Apparently mudguards are "not cool", whereas a strip of much up your back from your arse to the top of your head looking like an attack of explosive dysentery is perfectly OK.

If carrying stuff on the bike, it's a lot easier in a saddlebag or panniers than on your back.

And perhaps most important "beginner" hint is don't ride in the gutter - ie stay out best part of a metre from the curb and be prepared to ride in the middle of the lane if there's a pinch point or if turning right at a roundabout. Make the cars go round you properly rather than get squeezed. In the jargon the talk is "primary" and "secondary" position.
 
Location
Pontefract
@Profpointy I love my triple, I wont go into it here to much but you will understand where I am coming from. The main problem with compact doubles (its the size of the crank arms and not the size of the rings that makes it a compact, you can get compact triples too mainly touring) is that the gaps between the gears on the rear have to be quite large to get the range of gears on a triple, so you lose out sometimes being either a gear to high or low, with a triple you can still get the low gear but with closer ratios on the rear.
 
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thunderlips76

thunderlips76

climbs for cake
Location
BARNSLEY
ok so i'm pretty sure that a 54cm frame will suffice. I didn't think the 51cm frame was right (really goes to show how little i know ). Really loving the advice fellas so keep it coming. And I think I will go for the padded shorts........I think they look cool.
 

Profpointy

Legendary Member
@Profpointy I love my triple, I wont go into it here to much but you will understand where I am coming from. The main problem with compact doubles (its the size of the crank arms and not the size of the rings that makes it a compact, you can get compact triples too mainly touring) is that the gaps between the gears on the rear have to be quite large to get the range of gears on a triple, so you lose out sometimes being either a gear to high or low, with a triple you can still get the low gear but with closer ratios on the rear.

Totally agree - I did wonder why the so called "compact doubles" were so called. And however they dress it up they clearly aren't as low as I'd want either.
 

mcshroom

Bionic Subsonic
If you can go down the road to Sheffield another couple places to have a look at new bikes are Decathlon and Edinburgh Bicycle Cooperative
 
Location
Pontefract
@Profpointy briefly a normal crank has a bolt centre diameter (B.C.D.) of 130mm the inner ring usually 74mm (mines an odd size), there are charts that will show yours if you measure from the centre of one chainring bolt to the next there are other sizes but the 130mm is most common at the moment, a compact has a B.C.D. of 110mm, the reason for it is that you can not fit a chain ring with less than 38th to a 130mm BCD cranks, also you are not stuck with the size of chain rings the bike comes with, my chainset was 30/42/52, but I currently run a 30/40/52 it allows me to spin better, all to do with my avg gear inch and my cadence, however even having a 10sp triple I find the jump from 17 to 19 on the rear quite large as my avg gear is about 40-17 or about 61" my cassette is 12/13/14/15/16/17/19/21/23/27 I will use the 30th from 30x14 giving me 61 if it gives me a better cadence it not just for climbing the steepest bits of a hill, but correctly chosen gears give an all round range and good ratios. I don't race and the extra weight of the triple over a double is nothing when my bike already weighs about 12+Kg's
 

Profpointy

Legendary Member
@Profpointy briefly a normal crank has a bolt centre diameter (B.C.D.) of 130mm the inner ring usually 74mm (mines an odd size), there are charts that will show yours if you measure from the centre of one chainring bolt to the next there are other sizes but the 130mm is most common at the moment, a compact has a B.C.D. of 110mm, the reason for it is that you can not fit a chain ring with less than 38th to a 130mm BCD cranks, also you are not stuck with the size of chain rings the bike comes with, my chainset was 30/42/52, but I currently run a 30/40/52 it allows me to spin better, all to do with my avg gear inch and my cadence, however even having a 10sp triple I find the jump from 17 to 19 on the rear quite large as my avg gear is about 40-17 or about 61" my cassette is 12/13/14/15/16/17/19/21/23/27 I will use the 30th from 30x14 giving me 61 if it gives me a better cadence it not just for climbing the steepest bits of a hill, but correctly chosen gears give an all round range and good ratios. I don't race and the extra weight of the triple over a double is nothing when my bike already weighs about 12+Kg's

Ah light goes on! "Compact" is BCD related - that makes sense now. ie meaning makes sense, not actually buying one :-)
 
Location
Pontefract
@Profpointy my current gear rang is from 29"-114" 30x27 to 52x12 if I switch to a compact double I could have the same range on 52/36 and a 12-32 (if I could get the cassette ratios I wanted) on the newer 11sp so a 52/36 and 12/13/14/15/16/17/19/21/24/27/32 but where as most of my riding can currently be done on my 40th a range of 39"-87" I would probably need to change the front more often, the 36/52 is still a compact.
The choice of gears doesn't just come down to how low it goes and double over triples its about getting the right gears for you. When you start you need the lower gears and a lot of new bikes come with a 25th as the lowest a lot of people need much lower, i geared my bike as low as 30x34 at one point but it wasn't too successful so went to 28x28, these days a 30x28 gets me up so steep inclines 15%+ though not sure how far as the ones around here are pretty short 1/2 mile or so.
 
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