Adjusting gears

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Went for toughest ride yet last evening - included hills for the 1st time! - the bike has 3 front cogs and when I really needed the smallest cog, it just wouldnt engage (even tried using 'The Force') - as i've ridden more I notice there are 2 or 3 switches between certain gears which aren't as smooth as others and when they are used they're a little bit rattely.

What can I do?- the bike is due a 1st free service at Decathlon but I didnt want to take it back half way through week two. TIA.
 

battered

Guru
Take it back and ask them to sort the gears out prior to the service. It's what they do.:smile:
 

Shaun

Founder
Moderator
New brake and gear change cables usually stretch when you start using your new bike, which is one of the reasons an LBS will ask you to bring it back for a service after three or four weeks so they can make the necessary adjustments. :thumbsup:
 

briank

New Member
Learn to adjust the gears yourself; it's a skill you will never regret acquiring.

Quite true. But if time/facilities/help/courage are in short supply, have no qualms about taking it back. Those adjustments go out dead easily at first: there should be no issue about you abusing the machine in any way.
 
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OP
Lien Sdrawde

Lien Sdrawde

Über Member
Thanks all. My aim is to learn it all so I can do it myself - something I may have to do sooner than later, as I took the bike back to 'decathlon' and told them about the gears and the handlebar tape coming loose. They were good enough to take the bike there and then, but went for my ride last evening and the gears are worse than before (and the handlebar tape is coming loose in a different place) :wacko: I know its been worked on cos its different gears that are rattling (very noisy, not just a bit). Is it possible i've knocked something putting it back in the car or is it likely the workshop had an 'off day'.

I'll have to take it back for the handlebar tape again, but i'm a bit peeved about the gears as it makes the ride much less enjoyable.
 

Globalti

Legendary Member
If I wasn't going away for two weeks on Saturday I would offer to meet you somewhere and show you how easy it is to adjust the gears; it really isn't rocket science. The best I can suggest is that you read up about it on the web. You can only make two adjustments:

1 - There are two small screws, which limit the inward and outward movement of each derailleur. If you are hearing a chattering sound from the chain at the ends of the range of travel of either derailleur it's likely that one of these needs adjusting.

2 - There is an adjuster on the end of the cable where it enters the rear derailleur; this changes the effective length of the cable.

Since the bike is new it's very likely that the cables have stretched and the outers settled a little and the cable needs tightening, which you can do by unscrewing the rear adjuster. Do it half a turn at a time and keep riding the bike while listening for any improvement.

The skill is in recognising which of these needs adjusting, which you can often do while riding if you fiddle with the shifters, or by hanging the bike up and observing the gears while you turn the pedals.
 

jimboalee

New Member
Location
Solihull
Cables don't stretch. They 'elongate' due to being held in tension by a spring.

The spring tension is such that over a long period of time, the cable exceeds it's 'elastic limit' and permanently lengthens.

To describe a material as 'stretched', it implies the material will return to its original dimension when tension is released, ie not taken beyond its 'elastic limit'.

A Strain gauge is a device which changes its electrical impedence properties when it is 'stretched'. It returns to its original dimensions and impedence when the load is released.

Your brake cables have a load applied, and when the load is released, they do not return to thier original length. They retain a couple of microns of the elongated length.
Of course initial 'elongation' may be due to the soft metal nipple bedding into its seat in the brake handle.


Pedants unite.:whistle:
 
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OP
Lien Sdrawde

Lien Sdrawde

Über Member
I've got the bike on the 'trainer' now and am noticing that when on the middle of the 3 front cogs - combined with being on gear 7 of 8 on the rear cluster its starting to get noisy ..... but, when I put it into the last gear (8) the chain is actually rubbing against (what I have just learnt through a search on bike anatomy) the 'cage' of the front deralier.

Back to Decathlon or have a fiddle? (not starting work till 1ish). Thanks again guys, and special thanks for the offer of a meet. Next time maybe when hols are over.
 

Scoosh

Velocouchiste
Moderator
Location
Edinburgh
Here's the place to go for your knowledge. Not only do you get a video explanation, you can print out the instructions to have beside you as you wield the screwdriver
biggrin.gif
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HTH
 
Location
Salford
I am a total numbty when it comes to mechanical, DIY type things but I went on a "course" at Evan's cycles; it was free! The one I attended was @ the Chill Factor-e in Trafford but I think other branches do it and maybe other cycle stockists.

Over the course of a morning, they (patiently) showed us the very basics, even puncture repair.

In all, they covered:
  1. Repairing a puncture
  2. Adjusting (cable) brakes, both rim and disc brakes, though I had to specifically request covering disc brakes
  3. Adjusting gears
  4. Cleaning the chain
  5. Lubricating the chain
I guess it was a selling opportunity (I came home with a chain scrubber thingy) but there was no pressure and it was fun.
 
You need also to learn to balance the chain between the different front chainset and the rear cogs, so thet the Chain is kept in as straight a line as possible.

Hence if you your chain on the Largest Front chainwheel, you really should try to Keep your chain on no more that the first 4 smallest rear cogs, Likewise if you have the Chain on the Middle front chainwheel, the ideally you should try to use only the fourth to eighth rear cog.

However that only a guide, depending how many rear cogs you have, I personally rarly use the smallest front chainwheel, or the largest rear cog as i hate twirrling and would rather get off and push. using the wrong gear configeration will do nothing for your riding, and will apply undue pressure on the components, including the Bottom bracket bearings.
 

Davidc

Guru
Location
Somerset UK
Jimbolee is right, but there's another mechanism, and it applies to all multi-strand cables when new. When the cable (or rope, to which this also applies) is made the strands are twisted together in the pattern for the job the cable's made for. At the end of the process the cable is put under tension to pull the strands together. Friction between the strands means that they don't quite bed as closely as they could and this tensioning helps overcome that.

Once out in the real world, with real world patterns of tensioning and release that process of the strands bedding together is completed, with the result that the cable or rope is slightly longer than it was at the end of manufacturing. Because cables only work in tension not in compression this is normally a one-way ratchet type effect.

That's why there's a readjustment needed after a few weeks riding. the same applies to other things with cables but most now have self adjustment. The weight penalty would be too high on a bike.

I did a work placement at a cable and rope maker when at school (they closed years ago, another bit of British industry lost forever) and looked at this through a microscope. I can still remember my surprise at how big this effect was on the 1 7/8" (I think) crane cables they were making for the Port of London docks. The docks are long gone as well of course.

I am a total numbty when it comes to mechanical, DIY type things but I went on a "course" at Evan's cycles; it was free! The one I attended was @ the Chill Factor-e in Trafford but I think other branches do it and maybe other cycle stockists.

Over the course of a morning, they (patiently) showed us the very basics, even puncture repair.

In all, they covered:
  1. Repairing a puncture
  2. Adjusting (cable) brakes, both rim and disc brakes, though I had to specifically request covering disc brakes
  3. Adjusting gears
  4. Cleaning the chain
  5. Lubricating the chain
I guess it was a selling opportunity (I came home with a chain scrubber thingy) but there was no pressure and it was fun.

Sounds excellent.

When I bought my first 'real' bike at an LBS in the 1960s the owner invited you to go round during workshop time (Wednesday early closing or after 5 pm) so he could show you how to do everything you'd ever need to your particular bike.

He covered the lot - including stripping out BB and headset, gears, brakes, trueing and rebuilding wheels, the lot.

I thought that sort of thing had gone - evidently not.
 
Here's the place to go for your knowledge. Not only do you get a video explanation, you can print out the instructions to have beside you as you wield the screwdriver
biggrin.gif
.

HTH

Good link for a thicket like me, thank you. I will definitely use that site. In fact this whole thread is helpful.
My gears click when I go from 1 to 2
but are fine when I go from 3 -2
any idea where I need to do the quarter turn anyone?
 
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Lien Sdrawde

Lien Sdrawde

Über Member
Good link for a thicket like me, thank you. I will definitely use that site. In fact this whole thread is helpful.
My gears click when I go from 1 to 2
but are fine when I go from 3 -2
any idea where I need to do the quarter turn anyone?

Hi Richard - just to say (after close inspection and another trip back to the shop) that with my bike it was the chain rubbing against the 'cage' section of the front deralier, which was 'way out of position' (about 3mm too high apparently). Not had a proper look at the vids given above yet, though ive added them to 'favourites' - but found the following which may help answer your question... click here for gear adjustment video
 
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