accountantpete
OAP
Don't forget to apply a little grease to the pedal threads - they won't work loose and it makes removal a couple of years later a lot easier.
Adjusting tension in clipless pedals?
- Thread starter Anonymous1502
- Start date
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Don't forget to apply a little grease to the pedal threads - they won't work loose and it makes removal a couple of years later a lot easier.
Anonymous1502
Well-Known Member
Is dry bike lube ok to use?
vickster
Squire
Get copper grease (apply to cleat bolts too). A small tub will last a lifetime
rockyroller
Guru
- Location
- 20 miles northwest of Boston, MA
what I decided on for mine. set them so that if you forget to intentionally release, the motion of taking your foot off the pedal to put your foot down at a stop, will release them
Yeah this can happen but it's less of a concern than you might think - especially if you do them up reasonably tightly to start with I don't see it being too much of a problem. I've worn out three pairs of shoes which never had it happen to them once and the only time it did happen on one pair of shoes they were my commuter shoes, a couple of years old and had done probably 10k miles.
But definitely check them periodically - I check mine when I clean my shoes.
ColinJ
Puzzle game procrastinator!
- Location
- Todmorden - Yorks/Lancs border
I just set the tensions to minimum and leave them there.
Once or twice I DID manage to accidentally unclip but that was after I had lubed the cleats to get rid of an annoying squeaking sound. Even then it didn't happen when I was more careful not to slide about.
Once or twice I DID manage to accidentally unclip but that was after I had lubed the cleats to get rid of an annoying squeaking sound. Even then it didn't happen when I was more careful not to slide about.
slowmotion
Quite dreadful
- Location
- lost somewhere
^^^^^^^ This.
Mine have all been on the loosest setting since I bought them.
Just also be aware that as the cleats wear down, they become looser.
Three bolt types are often ones that are used for racing and will be more designed to transmit power with minimal loss.
Either way as said, start fairly loose and increase as required or experience dictates.
Three bolt types are often ones that are used for racing and will be more designed to transmit power with minimal loss.
Either way as said, start fairly loose and increase as required or experience dictates.
Always used Shimano M515s / M525s. Have them on loosest setting and likewise never had any problems.
Are you aware that you can get different " float" on cleats as well and is usually identified by tbe colour
The float is the amount t if angle that you need to restore your foot away from a chain stay before the foot clips...do not think your settings are incorrect if you have a large float and find it hard to unclip ...that's nothing to do with the tension
Also some cleats ( cranky for mtb) have two floats built in and is determined by putting the "dotted " on left for lots if float
Or " dotted " cleat on right side for less float ( or vice versa)
What ever your set up ...safety first
Unclip 20metre before any junction. Stop sign .traffic lights etc ...anticipate a possible stop and unclip befirehand
Good luck with the clips
They are hard to get used too
But you WILL get ip that hill a lot faster
The float is the amount t if angle that you need to restore your foot away from a chain stay before the foot clips...do not think your settings are incorrect if you have a large float and find it hard to unclip ...that's nothing to do with the tension
Also some cleats ( cranky for mtb) have two floats built in and is determined by putting the "dotted " on left for lots if float
Or " dotted " cleat on right side for less float ( or vice versa)
What ever your set up ...safety first
Unclip 20metre before any junction. Stop sign .traffic lights etc ...anticipate a possible stop and unclip befirehand
Good luck with the clips
They are hard to get used too
But you WILL get ip that hill a lot faster
HLaB
Marie Attoinette Fan
Its probably been said but it's just trial and error. Use on a indoor trainer or a quiet carpark (or the like) can reduce that error before you go on the road.
If you're struggling to unclip, they need loosened.
If you're unclipping when you're not meaning too, they need tightened.
As a starting position, I usually loosen the left clip all the way (that's the foot I always unclip with first, it could be your right, do what's natural) and have the right clip a little tighter (it's my more dominant foot, you could be left dominant!) and adjust from there.
Chap sur le velo
Über Member
- Location
- @acknee
Good thread I have loosened mine up as many clicks as possible.
One month in and yet to fall over! (Oh dear I'm tempting fate)
Seems an appropriate thread to ask the following...
Using SPD Yellow, so how do I know when they are worn? Will this be obvious?
Harder to clip in/out? Inadvertently unclipping?
One month in and yet to fall over! (Oh dear I'm tempting fate)
Seems an appropriate thread to ask the following...
Using SPD Yellow, so how do I know when they are worn? Will this be obvious?
Harder to clip in/out? Inadvertently unclipping?
vickster
Squire
They'll probably look worn, chipped, shaped changed etc. This will generally happen more quickly in urban cycling, more unclipping/clipping, more putting foot/feet down, more walking potentially
HLaB
Marie Attoinette Fan
The rubber pads will probably be worn down and black plastic worn thin which can indeed lead to problems clipping in and out or inadvertent unclipping.
Ajax Bay
Guru
- Location
- East Devon
Using SPD-SL cleats, they come as yellow, red and blue (different float angles).
Once the coloured section of the cleat (front or back) wears down to the black then it's prudent to replace.
Most people unclip by preference with the same foot (I use my left: pavement side in UK). So that cleat wears out quicker, maybe twice the rate. One strategy is to swap cleats once there's a fair bit of wear, but probably less faff to replace the well worn one alone.
