Anyone Created a Hood or Visor for their bike light to stop blinding people but maintain medium range visibility

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Getting 'Feedback' that my lights are too bright on unlit shared paths. Last winter I dipped them when I spotted pedestrians but didn't see these dog walkers dressed in black (I know they can wear what they want) until they were a few meters in front of me - a sharp swerve by me, no collision but a load of verbal abuse chased me on my way. After that I vowed not to dip my lights like that anymore. I need visibility. I will cover the light with my hand sometines but on a narrow path by the canal I sometimes want both hands on the bars when we pass very closely right next to the water.

Anyway I was wondering for a solution without paying for some fancy remote control lighting set up. FWIW I have Cat eye 500 lumens.

Apologies for the AI but the below got me interested. Was thinking of trying it with an old cedit card or plastic milk bottle cut out. Anyone done this and, most importantly, does it work?

Determine the Cutoff Line
Do this indoors against a wall
•
Turn your light on in a dark hallway or room and point it flat at a wall about 2 meters away. Look at the circle/cone of light.
•
Place your hand over the top edge of the lens until the top half of the light spot on the wall disappears, leaving a sharp, flat horizontal line across the top of the beam pattern.
2
Construct the Extended Hood
Tape alone can sag under wind/rain
•
Cut a small strip of thin plastic to form a "visor" or "bill" that extends about 1.5 cm to 2 cm (0.5 to 0.75 inches) past the front glass of the light.
•
Wrap electrical tape around the plastic piece to secure it to the top curve of your CatEye body.
3
Test and Adjust Angle
•
Mount the light back onto your handlebars and stand 5 to 10 meters in front of your bike at eye level.
•
If you can still see the bright central bulb/emitter directly, pull the visor slightly further forward or tilt the light mount down by just 1–2 degrees.
 

Dadam

Veteran
Location
SW Leeds
Haven't tried it but I did have the idea of 3d printing a hood for a couple of my lights. I'd either do it as a 2 part clamshell which clamps round the body of the light, or a 1 piece that fixes to the top with 2 sided adhesive tape or foam pads.
 

SteveH80

Senior Member
When I used a couple of cree torches on the bike I made hood for one of them from some tinfoil and electricians tape. I used that one on the road, illuminated potholes etc but didn't dazzle oncoming traffic, the second torch was switched on off-road or on pitch black country lanes to illuminate everything else.
It's always a judgement call; on the one hand I want to be seen, on the other I don't really want to dazzle a ton of metal that's approaching me at speed.
 
OP
OP
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united4ever

Veteran
yeah, the electric tape is what I am considering rather than cutting out plastic pieces. At least the tape can be changed easily as required.

Don't want to buy new lights really.
 

roley poley

Veteran
Location
leeds
I have constructed a "peak" on my headlight from an off-cut of plastic milk bottle to dip via tipping the banded handle bar mount down so as to prevent dazzle to on coming traffic on main roads on my commute..part of my travel is on tow-path where i will not need to use such and adjust it accordingly ...ok it is 0500 am and the roads are quiet but you have to think of others ...the main problem i have is car drivers with BRIGHT beams set at an angle that makes me think they have not dipped their headlights ...to combat this i use a peaked cap ..a tip of the head and it shields the eyes to see the road :becool:
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
A peak will work. A lot of the newer Chinese lights now come with a cut off - the LED is further up in the casing and there are definite cut offs. I have a cheap Newboller light (permanent cut off), and a Magicshine Hori 1300 - the magicshine has cut off and main beam and a remote.
 
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