Anyone know how this window sill's attached?

[swee'pea99]

Bog standard sash in a bog standard Victorian semi, bottom wood sill rotted to hell...

Plan is to remove & replace...only thing is, I can't figure out how the original is actually attached. Don't want to wreck any anchoring points by wrenching out screws or anything. Would screws be involved? Or can I proceed with Plan A - use a jigsaw to cut directly from front to rear, then lever out remains in two bits, using crowbar, hammer, screwdrivers, maybe a little dynamite.

Any and all words of wisdom much appreciated.

 

[ebikeerwidnes]

I would either use

a) a hammer

or

b) a professional

 

[PaulSB]

Hard to tell from the photo so I'll refer to our windows. The originals in our house have an extended bottom and top rail which fits into holes specifically made for them when the house was built. The window is then wedged at each corner. In our house it means a full window can be lifted out relatively easily. Important because it's the only way to get large items into the upstairs.

 

[Spiderweb]

Timber window sills aren’t usually attached, they are mortise & tenoned into the frame of the window when they are manufactured.

 

[T4tomo]

Timber window sills aren’t usually attached, they are mortise & tenoned into the frame of the window when they are manufactured.

yes my first thought was its all part of the window frame. Carefully jigsaw or chisel out the rotten piece and glue / screw in a solid piece is the quick fix.....

or take out the whole frame - are the internal wedges or fixings? and replace the rotten piece

 

[presta]

The top and bottom of the frame have mortises and the tenons are on the sides. The frames won't usually have 'fixings' as such, they're held in place by the horns at each end of the horizontals which are trapped in the wall as it's built.

 

[Deleted member 26715]

Is this showing from the inside or outside?

 

[swee'pea99]

Thanks everyone - that's really helpful! And excellent news. Because my guess is the joints in the corners won't be too hard to crack - I suspect rot . To answer Phaeton's question, this is the outside.

Carefully jigsaw or chisel out the rotten piece and glue / screw in a solid piece is the quick fix.....

Sounds like a plan! I reckon it's a case of tally ho and away I go! I always was good at wrecking things...

Wish me luck, I'm going in. And thanks again.

 

[postman]

Bit of putty a slap of undercoat bobs yer uncle,jobs a goodun.

 

[Deleted member 26715]

https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-emt300-qc-300w-electric-multi-tool-220-240v/622fx something like this is ideal for this, we have the DeWalt rechargeable version.

 

[swee'pea99]

Bit of putty a slap of undercoat bobs yer uncle,jobs a goodun.

Oright mate

 

[ebikeerwidnes]

Bit of putty a slap of undercoat bobs yer uncle,jobs a goodun.

Joiner version of a mechanics hammer!!

my Uncle was a motor mechanic - spent most of his life working on lawnmowers and tractors for the counsel
he once commented to me that if it doesn't fit it just means you are not using a big enough hammer!!!


As an IT person I can confirm that this does not apply to motherboards
but I can also confirm that 'some teacher' seem to think it does apply to all cables

and that 'some teachers' are actually capable of inserting a USB printer cable (A to B ) the wrong way round successfully (but $deity knows how!!
Yes - I worked in a school
as a teacher - but also as an IT Tech

 

[CXRAndy]

My neighbour is a joiner. He uses a small vibration saw to cut out and splice in new sections. Laborious job, time consuming job.

You will pay just as much for a professional repair or buy a complete uPVC double glazed window

 

[newts]

This link shows how the box sash window is made up.
https://sashsmart.co.uk/sash-windows-101/
The 3 piece frame lining is indicated by '14', the inner & outer linings are slotted & nailed over the box cill '10'.
I spent many days as a young carpenter/joiner chopping out rotten sections & splicing cill & linings, hated doing them.
Some great repair pictures here for reference.
https://londonsashwindows.com/sash-window-repair/

 

[presta]

I spent many days as a young carpenter/joiner chopping out rotten sections & splicing cill & linings, hated doing them.

I rather enjoyed doing mine, but it is time consuming though - several weeks per window in some cases. I made three complete new windows from scratch, and new sills, and countless repair sections. I replaced some of the openers with old Crittall galvanised steel replacements that fit into the outer frame, but I didn't have enough of them to do them all that way. Fitting the new French window door was a pain, the frame's not straight, so I had to spend hours planing a matching curve on the door just so that the gap didn't make it look like I can't plane straight.