Bike Standover Height

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kingspirit

Active Member
Hi All,

What is the bike standover in cm should be for a 176-177 cm height and 84-85 or even 86 cm inseam? Is 82.5 cm bike standover will be to big?

Cheers!
 

Oldhippy

Cynical idealist
Be prepared for a number of very different suggestions I'd say.
 

T4tomo

Legendary Member
Putting aside the awful sentence construction*.......

It depends on so many factors that its impossible to say from info given. Stand over height isn't that relevant in working out if a bike is the correct size, if indeed that is the question you want to ask.

*BTW apologies if English isn't your first language as my foreign grammar is awful!
 
Is this a new bike you are purchasing ?

Most bikes have a suggested size and a geometry chart available on the web. posts those links here and people can give there opinions.
 

Ian H

Ancient randonneur
If you get the right sized frame for you (top-tube length, seat-tube length) the stand-over height will certainly be okay.
 

si_c

Guru
Location
Wirral
Standover height is largely irrelevant, and is influenced by wheel size and bottom bracket height rather than the height of the rider.

You need a bike that you can sit on comfortably and reach the pedals properly and not over reach for the handlebars. Assuming you get that right the standover height won't matter.
 

SkipdiverJohn

Deplorable Brexiteer
Location
London
Pedal spindle to top of saddle height is the most critical sizing dimension, because I don't know anyone with adjustable length legs!
I know that to be able to pedal efficiently, I need a pedal to saddle height of at least 36 1/2", and no matter what frame size I am riding I this dimension is not negotiable downwards. So long as the correct saddle height can be attained then there is a fair bit of leeway in the frame sizing and it comes down to how much seatpost you can tolerate sticking out, how long the reach is along the top tube, and how high you want the head tube to be to achieve a comfortable handlebar height. In the days of steel frames with horizontal top tubes, bike sizing was pretty simple. If you could straddle the frame with your feet on the floor without doing yourself a mischief, then the sizing was in the right ball park to be able to asjust it for comfort.
 

Kajjal

Guru
Location
Wheely World
Above is good advice, stand over height is more for mountain bikes where you don’t want to stop quickly and cause yourself a lot of pain as you can’t stand over the bike properly. To be fair this is true for any bike.
 
Standover height in modern bikes is " a lot". Bikes should be fitted for length or reach from saddle to bars. If one model of bike gives the correct reach but not enough standover, another brand or style will almost certainly give you a better fit.
 

Ian H

Ancient randonneur
Pedal spindle to top of saddle height is the most critical sizing dimension, because I don't know anyone with adjustable length legs!
I know that to be able to pedal efficiently, I need a pedal to saddle height of at least 36 1/2", and no matter what frame size I am riding I this dimension is not negotiable downwards. So long as the correct saddle height can be attained then there is a fair bit of leeway in the frame sizing and it comes down to how much seatpost you can tolerate sticking out, how long the reach is along the top tube, and how high you want the head tube to be to achieve a comfortable handlebar height. In the days of steel frames with horizontal top tubes, bike sizing was pretty simple. If you could straddle the frame with your feet on the floor without doing yourself a mischief, then the sizing was in the right ball park to be able to asjust it for comfort.
Go back to the 50s and before and standover wasn't often a factor, with the fashion being for a tall frame with minimal seat-post showing. Early safety frames still had a mounting peg on the rear triangle for that reason.
 

SkipdiverJohn

Deplorable Brexiteer
Location
London
Go back to the 50s and before and standover wasn't often a factor, with the fashion being for a tall frame with minimal seat-post showing.

Nobody back then, apart from dedicated racers, would sacrifice any positional comfort to gain aerodynamic advantage - hence tall frames in relation to rider size which resulted in long head tubes and default high handlebar heights.
 
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