Building up and maintaining a carbon bike

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S-Express

Guest
Well...its not a myth if the manufacturer has written it on the top tube!

Manufacturer warning stickers do not over-ride science, though. Manufacturers warn against over-tightening, which is valid. It matters not where you clamp the bike, providing you do not over-tighten.
 

screenman

Legendary Member
I have seen bikes with wear a, no I will not go there.
 
OP
OP
Tin Pot

Tin Pot

Guru
Okay, a thought:

If I put wheels on it and fit it in the turbo that will hold it in place well enough for most things.

The only high torque installation will be the BB/crankset which I can do without any kind of stand.
 

Milkfloat

An Peanut
Location
Midlands
Okay, a thought:

If I put wheels on it and fit it in the turbo that will hold it in place well enough for most things.

The only high torque installation will be the BB/crankset which I can do without any kind of stand.

If you are asking whether or not you can use a turbo trainer instead of a work stand to build a bike, then the answer is yes. Then again, you can use a bit of rope, a wheelie bin or a multitude of other things to help.
 
OP
OP
Tin Pot

Tin Pot

Guru
If you are asking whether or not you can use a turbo trainer instead of a work stand to build a bike, then the answer is yes. Then again, you can use a bit of rope, a wheelie bin or a multitude of other things to help.

I have two wheelie bins but no rope :sad:

I see a tacx spider for £99 new or £65 off eBay.
 

derrick

The Glue that binds us together.
Manufacturer warning stickers do not over-ride science, though. Manufacturers warn against over-tightening, which is valid. It matters not where you clamp the bike, providing you do not over-tighten.
What is not tight for you is not the same for everyone, You are forgetting not everyone has the common sense not to tighten, there was someone on here took his bike some where to be sorted, a couple of weeks later he noticed the top tube had been damaged, he thought the bike shop had clamped the top tube to tight, So best not to clamp top tube.The seat post is the best place to clamp a carbon frame
 

ayceejay

Guru
Location
Rural Quebec
I am not sure if this is exclusive to carbon frames but you should use some frame protection against cable rub. If you rub off part of a transfer that is under a clear coat you can't repair this.
 

S-Express

Guest
What is not tight for you is not the same for everyone, You are forgetting not everyone has the common sense not to tighten, there was someone on here took his bike some where to be sorted, a couple of weeks later he noticed the top tube had been damaged, he thought the bike shop had clamped the top tube to tight, So best not to clamp top tube.The seat post is the best place to clamp a carbon frame

Like I said - it doesn't matter where you clamp the bike, providing you do not over-tighten. The proviso is obviously the important bit.
 
OP
OP
Tin Pot

Tin Pot

Guru
I am not sure if this is exclusive to carbon frames but you should use some frame protection against cable rub. If you rub off part of a transfer that is under a clear coat you can't repair this.

Internal cabling :smile:

... :sad:

Talking of cables...the internal cabling on a TT bar is freaking frustrating. The frame was bad enough but the handlebar seems to be impossible.
 

Milkfloat

An Peanut
Location
Midlands
Cutting carbon aero bars...

Laser guided rotary saw or hack saw?

What type of blade?

You can get special carbon cutting blades for bikes, but a lot of my friends have just used very fine normal hacksaw blades. A couple have used fibregrit not marketed for carbon fibre and seemed to have good results. Number 1 priority is use a mask, carbon fibre dust is nasty stuff.

To be honest, cutting a very expensive aero bar would be one of the few times to go to my LBS.
 

FishFright

More wheels than sense
Internal cabling :smile:

... :sad:

Talking of cables...the internal cabling on a TT bar is freaking frustrating. The frame was bad enough but the handlebar seems to be impossible.


Try tying some strong thread or fishing line onto the end of the cable or outer. The use a vacuum cleaner to suck the thread out of the hole you want the cable to run , then carefully pull the thread till everything is good in the world or the cable is through that hole .
Also works for internal cable runs.
 
OP
OP
Tin Pot

Tin Pot

Guru
Try tying some strong thread or fishing line onto the end of the cable or outer. The use a vacuum cleaner to suck the thread out of the hole you want the cable to run , then carefully pull the thread till everything is good in the world or the cable is through that hole .
Also works for internal cable runs.

Yes, saw that on GCN but seemed like a faff so did it using the much more flexible cables them selves as guides and it was easy after that.
 
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