Cassettes and cimbing?

[davdandy]

Ok,although i have been riding for a couple of years and got quite a few miles under the bonnet i am a bit thick regarding gearing.So need your advice.

I currently have a Cannondale Caad 8 105 with the settings as below.I have changed nothing in that time.

But on climbing the steepest hills,like Sheephouse lane in Rivington i struggle,i never give up and always make it but it beats the hell out of me and my legs.Would changing the rear cassette to a 12-30 help or not worth the hassle,also what differences would i notice both on the climbs and descents.And also on the flats dont forget.

Or is there another way to help on the climbs.

Of course i have the usual limits as always such as budget would appreciate your wise knowledge on this matter.


Cranks: Fsa Gossamer, BB30, 50/34
Bottom Bracket: Fsa BB30
Chain: Kmc X10
Rear Cogs: Shimano Tiagra 4600, 12-28, 10-Speed
Front Derailleur: Shimano 105 5700, 31.8mm Clamp
Rear Derailleur: Shimano 105 5700
Shifters: Shimano 105 5700

 

[ColinJ]

The 30 would be slightly easier than the 28 but you would still have to apply 28/30 of the force on the pedals to travel at the same speed (and pedal faster!) so it isn't a huge change.

You could fit a mountain bike cassette with an even bigger granny cog, say a 32. You would have to look into whether your rear derailleur could cope, and would probably need a longer chain.

To save anybody else typing it (and they would!) - the 3 other ways to make climbing easier are;

1. Get fitter! It's obvious that, but not very helpful. I am getting fitter and doing much better on gears that used to defeat me, but it is still nice to have lower gears when you want to use them.
2. Go slower. It sounds like you are probably going as slowly as you can already, and grinding your way up the climbs.
3. Lose weight. This is the best way, assuming that you actually have surplus weight to lose. I have lost 5 stone and it has transformed my climbing.

A radical solution is to put a triple chainset on your bike. I have just done that on my Cannondale and it has made a big difference. You would have to scrap your chainset and bottom bracket and possible have to change one or both of your derailleurs. I was lucky and only had to do the chainset and BB on my bike. It cost me about £90, but I should be able to get about £40 of that back by selling the old parts on eBay.

 

[Kiwiavenger]

if your rear derallier would take it a 11/12-30t rear cassette would be a good starting point. i struggled with a 12-26 8 speed before swapping out to a 11-28 which may not seem like alot but the extra 2 teeth made one hell of a difference!

i would strongly recommend replacing th chain as well as you may need to add a link or so to it

 

[Sharky]

If all working smoothly, keep as is. There is not much difference between a 34*28 and 34*30.

Other factors to consider
- using clip less pedals? A firm footing will help on the last few yards of a hill when you can pull up with the trailing foot.
- lightweight tyres? Always helps
- no back pack and no excessive weight on bike.

Training for hills
- on gradients you can manage, try climbing using the next cog up. Then when you come to the steeper ones, you'll have one in reserve.
- keep a good cadence, especially on the lower phase of the hill

If you do change the cassette, don't worry about a 12 cog. Look for close ratios, so that you have more combinations at the lower end and smaller jumps between gears.

Happy climbing

Keith

 

[davdandy]

I know the getting fitter is easy to say,but i am quite fit now,though 51 years old and cannot see me getter much better,certainly not too greater a degree.I have always climbed the hills,i never wimp out or stop but it takes it toll on the body and knees,something i need to be careful with,so although i heed your advice i don't think it helps in this situation.that is why i am asking about the gearing,just to help on those evil climbs.As a young lad i would whip uo em but i aint that same young chap anymore sad to say.

 

[Globalti]

I know the getting fitter is easy to say,but i am quite fit now,though 51 years old and cannot see me getter much better,certainly not too greater a degree.I have always climbed the hills,i never wimp out or stop but it takes it toll on the body and knees,something i need to be careful with,so although i heed your advice i don't think it helps in this situation.that is why i am asking about the gearing,just to help on those evil climbs.As a young lad i would whip uo em but i aint that same young chap anymore sad to say.

Nonsense, fella! You can carry on improving for a long time yet. I started road riding at age 53 after 22 years of mountain biking, which kept me reasonably fit. However road riding has shot me into a different level of fitness altogether, bringing my resting heart rate down from 52 to 48 and giving me distinctly beefier leg muscles. I am still improving now, in fact a recent C2C ride over 5 days has shot me on to an even higher level of fitness, the benefits of which I am really enjoying. And I'm 58 now.

 

[ColinJ]

I know the getting fitter is easy to say,but i am quite fit now,though 51 years old and cannot see me getter much better,certainly not too greater a degree.I have always climbed the hills,i never wimp out or stop but it takes it toll on the body and knees,something i need to be careful with,so although i heed your advice i don't think it helps in this situation.that is why i am asking about the gearing,just to help on those evil climbs.As a young lad i would whip uo em but i aint that same young chap anymore sad to say.

Sorry dd, but playing the age card at a mere 51 isn't on ...

I know a rider in his mid-70s who still races, and occasionally wins.

I got overtaken by a speeding rider up a climb on Saturday and he must have been well into his 70s.

I got seriously ill at 56, then had a relapse at 57, but am now climbing better at 58 than I was in my 30s and 40s!

I do agree about using low gears though. My joints ache a bit and I would much rather spin a low gear than grind a big one.

If you can afford it, put a triple on your bike. Take a look at the Spa Cycles website. I fitted their Stronglight 48/38/28 triple to my bike, but they also do higher and lower-geared variations. Suitable Shimano UN55 BBs are cheap. It would start to get expensive if you had to change shifters and mechs too.

 

[Dogtrousers]

At a guess you have the medium cage RD (because I don't think a short cage would work on your existing setup). Edit: But I could be wrong!! (I'm very good at being wrong).

According to this tech doc
http://bike.shimano.com/media/techd...SI-5X90B-003-00-ENG_v1_m56577569830702204.PDF
the RD-5700-GS has a capacity of 39T and a max sprocket of 28T.

If you fitted a 12-30 cassette that would give you a capacity of (50-34)+(30-12)=34, which is within the capacity of the mech. But the 30 is bigger than the max stated sprocket size of the mech. Now, you can probably get away with this - others can advise from experience but I don't have any in this specific case.

This would give you ~30" bottom gear rather than ~32" which you have at the moment. Worth a bash - for the cost of a cassette and chain (and possibly a cassette extractor tool and a chain whip if you don't already have).

I don't think you will be able to fit a smaller chainring than a 34.

 

[Rob3rt]

Nonsense, fella! You can carry on improving for a long time yet. I started road riding at age 53 after 22 years of mountain biking, which kept me reasonably fit. However road riding has shot me into a different level of fitness altogether, bringing my resting heart rate down from 52 to 48 and giving me distinctly beefier leg muscles. I am still improving now, in fact a recent C2C ride over 5 days has shot me on to an even higher level of fitness, the benefits of which I am really enjoying. And I'm 58 now.

Isn't C2C only ~140 miles?

 

[YahudaMoon]

Isn't C2C only ~140 miles?

Depends on the C2C?

Holyhead - Amlwch C2C is only 20mile

 

[Rob3rt]

Fair point but the typical C2C route is ~140 miles?

 

[ColinJ]

Isn't C2C only ~140 miles?

Gti told me that theyl did a slightly extended Way of the Roses which came in at 188 miles. I confess that I am surprised that he felt such a boost from it, given that he was pretty fit to start with. I did 190 miles in 3 rides over 5 days in Scotland a couple of weeks ago and didn't feel physically much different when I got back. Maybe a pound lighter, but that's all.

 

[davdandy]

Sorry dd, but playing the age card at a mere 51 isn't on ...

Damn,i was hoping i would get away with it.I have been found out.Boo-hoo.

Seriously though,my knees are not at their best,years of working on building sites and crawling on the floors has not done me any favours so i need to protect them,and my back.

 

[YahudaMoon]

Seriously though,my knees are not at their best,years of working on building sites and crawling on the floors has not done me any favours so i need to protect them,and my back.

Sorry if Im saying the obvious, low gears even on the flat

Well I wouldnt use a big gear even on the flat, more spinning and Id even choose a slower pace, many oldtimers that have been cycling since before I was born use MTB gears for road use.

Had knee issues in the past from a combination of running/cycling, gave up running and ditched the 53x18 fixed speed gear, and dont grind up hills anymore, my knees thanked me for it

Could you not swap out you crank/chainrings for a MTB one at a low cost?

 

[davdandy]

I don't want MTB gearing,as i said,i can do the hills but i would just like something to help,especially on the steep climbs so the knees and legs don't kill me as much that's all.

I just need that one more gear to get me up that there hill.