Chain Cleaning

[mickle]

Thats a sensible question. I think I already posted my opinion on the compromise of Mickle's solution a couple of posts up. I'm not sure that "quite clean" would be an accurate description of the results of his cleaning method though. I would put it more as "quite dirty", but perhaps acceptable for a fleet of hire bikes.

Quite clean? Quite clean??? My chain is immaculate. Thats the whole point Benders. Your opinion on my chain maintenance method is of no value until you've either tried it or witnessed its results. Until that time it is just that, your opinion. An opinion entirely based on what you imagine the condition of my chain to be.

I thought it was just Bonj who spouted forth on subjects about which he had no experience whatsoever.

 

[magnatom]

Quite clean? Quite clean??? My chain is immaculate. Thats the whole point Benders. Your opinion on my chain maintenance method is of no value until you've either tried it or witnessed its results. Until that time it is just that, your opinion. An opinion entirely based on what you imagine the condition of my chain to be.

I thought it was just Bonj who spouted forth on subjects about which he had no experience whatsoever.

Oh chosen one may I be so bold to ask a question of your greatness...

I was advised by a LBS to just use a dry lube during the winter and to keep lubing it fairly regularly (after every ride when it is lashing it down!). I don't always wipe it though. Do you think the fickle mickle method of chain cleaning would work with a dry lube or should I go for something a little more viscous?

 

[magnatom]

Oh and BM, I think your skates would look spiffing with a bit of tinsel!

 

[mickle]

Oh chosen one may I be so bold to ask a question of your greatness...

I was advised by a LBS to just use a dry lube during the winter and to keep lubing it fairly regularly (after every ride when it is lashing it down!). I don't always wipe it though. Do you think the fickle mickle method of chain cleaning would work with a dry lube or should I go for something a little more viscous?

It works with any good quality cycle chain lube but it really is imperative that you wipe it all off after applying and then wipe it again after a few miles.

 

[BentMikey]

Funnily enough I've been using your method since JRG's post. I'll run the cycle every day that I ride the bike, and will report back here.

 

[mickle]

Righto.

 

[Fab Foodie]

No comments on KMC's recommendation that I posted earlier?

 

[biking_fox]

What's the difference between "fairly clean" and "clean" a few posts back. I believe the answer is - grinding paste.

Fairly clean will still have trace grit mixed into the oil, now worked into most sensitive parts where it can really get to work, wearing them out.

The only fair test is chain life - how many 000miles of equal cycling one can do with one method compared to another.

That said, I just run citrus degreaser through one of those clamp one jobbies, pedal a few times to get the worst off, use GT85 to dry it, and then overoil it.

 

[mickle]

What's the difference between "fairly clean" and "clean" a few posts back. I believe the answer is - grinding paste.

Fairly clean will still have trace grit mixed into the oil, now worked into most sensitive parts where it can really get to work, wearing them out.

The only fair test is chain life - how many 000miles of equal cycling one can do with one method compared to another.

That said, I just run citrus degreaser through one of those clamp one jobbies, pedal a few times to get the worst off, use GT85 to dry it, and then overoil it.

Degreaser removes all the good lube from inside the chain which combined with the GT85 acts to break down the lube which you then apply into an emulsion. Overoiling leaves a residue on the outside of the chain which attracts mank. The worst possible way to maintain a chain in my view.

 

[PrettyboyTim]

Degreaser removes all the good lube from inside the chain which combined with the GT85 acts to break down the lube which you then apply into an emulsion. Overoiling leaves a residue on the outside of the chain which attracts mank. The worst possible way to maintain a chain in my view.

But if you've let your chain get into a bit of a state, surely it's worth giving it a good degrease to get all the crud out before continuing with some other cleaning regime?

 

[BentMikey]

If you're going to clean it, then the only way is to clean it properly via the Sheldon Shake.

Otherwise there are compromise solutions such as Mickles, but even a good wiping won't take off all the sticky lube, or prevent some ingress of abrasive particles.

 

[PrettyboyTim]

If you're going to clean it, then the only way is to clean it properly via the Sheldon Shake.

The snap-on cleaning device will have to do for now. I don't have a powerlink on my chain.

 

[Chris James]

FFS - how much does a new chain cost?

A new 105 chain for my bike will cost me £12 inc postage from Chain Reaction. I can't believe people can argue on for so long about so little money. Especially since none of you know if you are right or not.

'Grinding' paste regularly gets mentioned because it sounds bad, but how much of the crap that comes off the chain was actually in the areas where it can do some damage?

The only important thing is how long your chain lasts - and how much effort is required to make it last that long. Mickle's method sounds attractive from that point of view as it may or may not make the chain last as long but when you have factored in the cost of the degreaser, chain cleaning tool or the extra time it takes you to remove your chain, even the cost of the powerlink or new pins, and the environmental cost of disposing of white spirit etc then what are you gaining by repeatedly cleaning your chain all the time?

Given I would expect at least 1200 miles from my chain then it will cost me a penny a mile. Getting an extra 500 miles would only save me a fiver and probably take hours of work.

And why the obsession with chains? Why not worry how long your rims are going to last with your favourite brake compound or how much wear you get out of your tyres. You would probably save just as much money.

 

[PrettyboyTim]

I think the point is that as the chain gets worn down, its length will change slightly which will mean that it won't sit on your gears as well and wear them down more quickly.

 

[Chris James]

I think the point is that as the chain gets worn down, its length will change slightly which will mean that it won't sit on your gears as well and wear them down more quickly.

Yes, I know that, but you easily measure that with a ruler or chain measuring tool and replace your chain before it ruins your casette.