Chain Lube

[Old timer]

hiya

I sprayed my bike chain with PJ1 chain lub (comes out as sort of foam and then turns to non drip after a few minutes)

Didn`t realise till after that it was a can left over from my motorbike days I`m thinking it would maybe be to thick for a narrow bike chain and more so to do the rounds through my gears?

I have some GT25 general purpose spray lub with PTFE. If I give the chain a spray with that will it do the job do you think?

I know you might say to remove the chain, clean it in a degreaser and start again but I just want a quick fix for now.

Thanks

 

[ttcycle]

GT85 won't be long lasting as it's not thick enough- the stuff will dissapear after a few rotations of the chain. I'm inclined to suggest the none quick fix of cleaning the chain and getting a decent bike lube for the chain. sorry it's not a quick fix

 

[AlanW]

I did a similar daft trick, although I did it on purpose.

Decided to use some spray lube designed for motorbike chains I found in the garage cupboard, and it seemed like a good idea at the time.

However, after a decent winter rider, what a bloody mess. Trust me, cut your losses now and remove the chain and clean it properly.

Then lube it with something more suitable to the application.

 

[fossyant]

Best thing is get the dropper bottles. Buy a good lube (finish line etc etc) and put a drop on each roller - that's all you need. Aerosols are a huge waste of oil and make a right mess/get the chain dirty quickly. The little dropper bottles last ages and ages, so the 'expensive' lubes are actually quite cheap. I use Finish Line Pro Road Ceramic in all weathers.

 

[AlanW]

Best thing is get the dropper bottles. Buy a good lube (finish line etc etc) and put a drop on each roller - that's all you need. Aerosols are a huge waste of oil and make a right mess/get the chain dirty quickly. The little dropper bottles last ages and ages, so the 'expensive' lubes are actually quite cheap. I use Finish Line Pro Road Ceramic in all weathers.

I have just bought a little ProLink Gold bottles here

Like you say, a little bit goes a long way.

As a point of interest, I was given a bottle of the Pro Road Ceramic lube and couldn't get on with it? Every time I went out my chain went black and looked really dirty? I lost count how many times I degreased it and cleaned it before reapplying as I thought it was getting contaminated from old lube?

Binned it in the end and went back to ProLink Gold, marvellous stuff.

 

[Old timer]

Thanks for your replies. We are just seeing a slight thaw so I might be able to get out in the morning for a short ride and don`t want to strip down my chain (withdrawal symptoms

I take note of all the advice and will do a proper job in the new year. In the mean time shall I just leave things alone or just add a small amount of regular 3 in 1 type oil to ease things along?

BTW I noticed the last two outings that my gears did jump and slip a few times!(which they weren`t doing before) could that be the PJ oil thickening up in the cold and causing a problem?

PS Can I not just take the chain off of the front chain wheel and drape it through a shallow dish or something rather than removing the whole thing, wheel and gears?(it`s on my E-bike) and if yes, what solution to run it through?

 

[youngoldbloke]

Your chain may have a link in it that allows you to split it and rejoin it. If not, the usual way to to remove a chain would be to use a chain splitter, and rejoin it by using an appropriate quicklink - you will need to know the chain width to get the right size. KMC are often recommended. On the other hand, why not wipe off as much of the gunge as possible, and then apply a drop of oil - can't see why it should do any harm in the short term. Surely the bike should still have had the factory lube on the chain, as you haven't had it long have you?

 

[youngoldbloke]

+1 re the Prolink Luber Pen, by the way. I have been using one for over 2 years, refilling from a £5 bottle of Prolink Chain Lube. I have only used about 3/4 of the bottle so far. No measurable chain wear as yet - excellent stuff! (Check out the link to the prolink chain lube thread below)

 

[Old timer]

Your chain may have a link in it that allows you to split it and rejoin it. If not, the usual way to to remove a chain would be to use a chain splitter, and rejoin it by using an appropriate quicklink - you will need to know the chain width to get the right size. KMC are often recommended. On the other hand, why not wipe off as much of the gunge as possible, and then apply a drop of oil - can't see why it should do any harm in the short term. Surely the bike should still have had the factory lube on the chain, as you haven't had it long have you?

I do have a chain splitter, I had to change my wifes gears. Are you saying that there is a certain link you need to split? I did check if there was one of the old fashioned links with circlip but there wasn`t so I split the chain and then just re-connected it in the same place with the link splitter.

 

[youngoldbloke]

I do have a chain splitter, I had to change my wifes gears. Are you saying that there is a certain link you need to split? I did check if there was one of the old fashioned links with circlip but there wasn`t so I split the chain and then just re-connected it in the same place with the link splitter.

This is the sort of thing I mean - also made by Wipperman and SRAM - modern version of the circlip link (also still available?) Not saying there is a specific link you need to split (unless you have a top end Campag or Shimano chain on the bike, which are different kettles of fish - but you can still use these links with them) - just saying your chain may come with one of the quicklinks fitted, so before you loosen a pin, turn the cranks and check it out. With narrower chains in particular it is not a good idea to rejoin them by pushing back the same pin, as we used to do.

(PS - was puzzled by your comment: .... rather than removing the whole thing, wheel and gears?(it`s on my E-bike) ........)

 

[Old timer]

This is the sort of thing I mean - also made by Wipperman and SRAM - modern version of the circlip link (also still available?) Not saying there is a specific link you need to split (unless you have a top end Campag or Shimano chain on the bike, which are different kettles of fish - but you can still use these links with them) - just saying your chain may come with one of the quicklinks fitted, so before you loosen a pin, turn the cranks and check it out. With narrower chains in particular it is not a good idea to rejoin them by pushing back the same pin, as we used to do.

(PS - was puzzled by your comment: .... rather than removing the whole thing, wheel and gears?(it`s on my E-bike) ........)

All noted, I`ll have a look around the chain. Clever little link that looks.

So! cleaning the chain would be done with what?

I think years ago we used to melt grease, put the chain or wheel bearing in it so that it soaked into every part and then just let it cool down and wipe off the excess. Probably still holds good for certain car wheel bearings but maybe not for these small chains

Greasing things is all very well but the grease moves out of the way and that`s when wear sets in. I just replaced the drum bearings in our washing machine ( not a job you would want to do all the time) my point is that if you had access to those bearings to pump in grease they probably would never need replacing.

 

[Old timer]

The roads around here yesterday were rideable and waiting for the pro gold to arrive ain`t an option

Anyway, as a get me out I wiped the chain clean of that heavy sticky goo, then gently wiped it with a dampened white spirit cloth (not dripping) and then applied some Castrol RS fully synth engine oil and wiped off again.(quite a thin expensive oil)

Wow!!! the gears have never run so quiet and smooth changing. Now! when the progold arrives I`m worried that the gears won`t be so good when I apply it.
Still, suppose I`d better use the right stuff for the job.

 

[GrahamNR17]

I've always used engine oil too. Tends to attract road filth, but seems to work quite well. I tried my tin of Castrol solid grease once, the stuff you used to heat on a stove to do motorbike chains. It seemed to work, until I tried turning the pedals afterwards and could hardly move the thing

Might get one of those Park Tools wotsits for cleaning/lubing, I do love a gadget

 

[Tynan]

surely the mickle method?

I've tried a few ncluding the park cleaner and mickle is the best so far, easy, clean and certainly seems to work

 

[ianrauk]

Also have a chain cleaner, used once but never again. Waste of money. Mickle method since.