Chain slip/jam - Rear Derailleur?

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dhd.evans

dhd.evans

Veteran
Location
Dundee
Ran the gears through on the Campus bikestand, up-down-fast-slow. Everything seems hunky-dory now. I did give the barrel adjuster (both on the mech and the inline one) a little tweak so may have just been cable tension.

A ride home tonight will confirm either way.
 
OP
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dhd.evans

dhd.evans

Veteran
Location
Dundee
I had a similar sort of issue a few weeks ago. The bearings on the jockey wheels were the ball bearing type and was so knackered the balls got out and jammed the jockey wheel briefly causing the chain to skate over the wheel. It sounded horrible.

I was just returning to this thread after tweaking the cables and cleaning out all the mechanisms. Same issue seems to be arising, the jockey wheels have had almost 2000mi through them and i wonder if they're starting to go. There is a definite creak/click/clack in the drivetrain now but the bottom bracket is stable and solid, pedals are tight. Closeups of the rear mech below from this morning:

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youngoldbloke

The older I get, the faster I used to be ...
Jockey wheels look fine - I replace them when the teeth are pointy, those look almost un-worn. Have you taken them off and cleaned and greased them? Simple job, worth trying
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
chain is less than 200mi old, cassette 300mi-ish
after tweaking the cables and cleaning out all the mechanisms.
If your image is after "cleaning out all the mechanisms", I suggest you remove your cassette and chain and clean them both, thoroughly. Then clean the chainrings and remove the jockey wheels and clean them (and grease), Then refit everything and lubricate lightly (@mickle method). If you think that 'Dry lube' attracts dirt if overused, don't use it. Use an alternative, sparingly, and wipe excess off before riding. Then see if this replicates itself. YS has suggested chain suck, probably caused by the chain and the rest of the drive train being, in your words 'gunky'.
 
OP
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dhd.evans

dhd.evans

Veteran
Location
Dundee
If your image is after "cleaning out all the mechanisms", I suggest you remove your cassette and chain and clean them both, thoroughly. Then clean the chainrings and remove the jockey wheels and clean them (and grease), Then refit everything and lubricate lightly (@mickle method). If you think that 'Dry lube' attracts dirt if overused, don't use it. Use an alternative, sparingly, and wipe excess off before riding. Then see if this replicates itself. YS has suggested chain suck, probably caused by the chain and the rest of the drive train being, in your words 'gunky'.

Jockey wheels cleaned out and reattached; click/clack still there.

Tried adjusting the rear hanger by hand; stopped the chain slippage but still click/clack noise on pressure.

BB is stable and not wobbly, pedals are tight.

Next and final port of call will be the cassette and hub. Here's to hoping it's not the hub.

Thanks to all for input!
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
I have another question: how many teeth on your large sprocket? I think it is 32t (but not certain) which is beyond the parameters of the RD you have fitted. Others have, I know, made this work. In the mage, the distance between the jockey wheel and the sprocket teeth is minimal. You may wish to screw the 'B' screw in further.
 
OP
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dhd.evans

dhd.evans

Veteran
Location
Dundee
What is it that you are actually doing when you're 'tweaking' the cable adjusters?

Tightening the barrel adjusters mainly, just applying pressure to make sure the cable has good tension.

I have another question: how many teeth on your large sprocket? I think it is 32t (but not certain) which is beyond the parameters of the RD you have fitted. Others have, I know, made this work. In the mage, the distance between the jockey wheel and the sprocket teeth is minimal. You may wish to screw the 'B' screw in further.

The cassette and RD are as standard (well, replaced the cassette with like-for-like in the last few months). I might try the B screw adjustment later once i've taken the rear wheel off and examined the cassette and hub.
 
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