Changing the Cassette Up

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Kookas

Über Member
Location
Exeter
I'm finding that even up steep hills, my 11-32 cassette is lower geared than I need it. So I'm planning on replacing it with an 11-25 eventually, for the narrower gaps between the gears. What will need to be adjusted when I do that?
 

jack smith

Veteran
Location
Durham
Depending on your group possibly nothing, just make sure you give the gears a once over and check the high and low limit to avoid dropping the chain aswell as making it shift smoothly, no spare parts should be required
 

sreten

Well-Known Member
Location
Brighton, UK
Hi,

An optimally short chain is a racing weight weeny type of thing.

In reality its best to have a medium to long chain.It will last
a little longer if longer, and if you get any problems with
the chain and carry a chain tool, you can remove the
problem link or links without any real issues.

FWIW dropping 7 teeth is removing 3 outside links.

rgds,sreten.

AFAICT my chains are nowhere near as short or long as they can be.
That is my rear derailleurs never approach horizontal, they both have
loads more capacity than my gearing needs, and for both the cage
of the derailleur is around vertical for the middle gears.

52/42 with 7 speed 14-28 and 48 with 6 speed 14-28 and 20" wheels.
 
Last edited:

Newman8

Senior Member
I work on the principle that your chain should be 'only just' long enough to go on the big-big combination safely. Obviously not a combination you would deliberately change into, but it should be able to do it just in case.
 

Smurfy

Naturist Smurf
I don't usually shorten chains (apart from Single-Speed and Fixed-Wheel). A few extra links is handy in case of problems out on the road. Even with a triple I find that the chain is only too slack on small-small and one or two sprockets above that, but I never use those combinations anyway.
 
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