Clean that Chain!!!!

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I think what you are saying is, to put it another way, that the movement of the pins towards the centre of the sprocket causes the effective diameter of the sprocket to be smaller (as seen by that chain), so the effective pitch of the sprocket teeth appears slightly shorter. I see the logic, but I need to think about it a bit more.

If the leading pin is hard up against the tooth (just before it leaves the sprocket), which it would be due to the chain tension, then the second pin can't be down in the valley unless the link is stretched (i.e. the pin-bush bearings are worn) because to get there it would have to move round the inside curve of the roller, away from the leading pin. The link to the third pin would tend to pull it down, but that would just cause it to apply a force to the inside front of the second roller and thus to the sprocket tooth, which is what we want. The same applies all the way round as far as I can see.

Once the chain is a bit worn ("stretched"), then I can see that the play in the rollers may even be an advantage, as it would allow the second (and subsequent) pins to be pulled down into the valley a bit by the next link until it contacts the inside of the roller and continues to apply a force to the sprocket. Without the play in the rollers, this would not happen and all of the force would go onto the tooth in front of the leading pin.

As I said, I need to think about it, but I would be surprised if Shimano were to be selling chains that are effectively worm out before they are even installed.

Hope you don't mind discussing this; I find it quite interesting.

The way to tell is to put a load on the chain and then investigate at which point it's possible to lift the chain away from the sprocket. If the rollers are, as you suspect, hard up against the teeth you'll be able to tell.

When Shi**no introduced Ultraglide and Hyperdrive it was widely observed that the new tooth profiles, designed to allow easier passage of the chain up and down the block, were created by a removal of material at key points on each sprocket. At the cost of significantly reduced durability. Shi**no don't mind that their parts wear out prematurely. Their stuff is designed to work well straight out of the box, without any 'running in'. That they achieve at the cost of durability seems to have been forgotten.
 
Getting back on topic....:rolleyes:. I got a new way to do my chain. i smeared rag in wd40 and did a 'shoe-shine' over each gear cog. worked a treat :thumbsup:. Got the idea from the divided opinion about WD40!!! It does no harm but possibly some good! So what the hell,all i know is that stuff cleans well....
 

MrHappyCyclist

Riding the Devil's HIghway
Location
Bolton, England
The way to tell is to put a load on the chain and then investigate at which point it's possible to lift the chain away from the sprocket. If the rollers are, as you suspect, hard up against the teeth you'll be able to tell.
Ah, of course. That's the most direct way to tell, thanks.

I tried it on the 12 toothed sprocket and the first four pins are tight against the sprocket. I am able to lift the fifth, which pulls length from the chain tensioner. I think it's probably OK at the moment.
 

Cubist

Still wavin'
Location
Ovver 'thill
Getting back on topic....:rolleyes:. I got a new way to do my chain. i smeared rag in wd40 and did a 'shoe-shine' over each gear cog. worked a treat :thumbsup:. Got the idea from the divided opinion about WD40!!! It does no harm but possibly some good! So what the hell,all i know is that stuff cleans well....
Spray it with GT 85 afterwards though!
 

cjb

Well-Known Member
Location
West Yorkshire
Example One.
Shimano XT chain, about 700 miles, all off-road. Cleaned with a squirt or two of gunk degreaser diluted five parts to one with tap water, scrubbed with a nylon brush, dries, GT85 wiped then lubed with Finish Line Dry Teflon:

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Example 2:
SRAM PG970, Mickle method every week. Finish Dry Teflon Lubed.
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Why ride with a dirty chain when you can ride with a shiny clean one?
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Looks good, do you take the chain off the bike for this routine please?
 

Cubist

Still wavin'
Location
Ovver 'thill
That's how I'd like to keep my chain and FW looking!! Gunk and Teflon Spray? Yes


Not teflon spray, dry teflon lube.
 

Jdratcliffe

Well-Known Member
Location
Redhill, Surrey
i clean my chain after long rides its best to do a small job than wait till its an hour long job i think ,

a wipe with oily rag usually lubes and cleans it and takes 2minutes bit longer if grimy maybe ten minutes with toothbrush or 5 with chain cleaning tool ,

either way i hate having to sit there chipping caked grime and greasy muck off it for ages .

use http://www.wiggle.co.uk/muc-off-chain-cleaner-400ml-aerosol/
and
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/muc-off-water-soluble-degreaser-500ml-aerosol/

wprk great on the greasey stuff
then this on the rest http://www.wiggle.co.uk/muc-off-nano-tech-bike-cleaner-1-litre-bottle-with-spray-1/
all works a treat and not that tough either!
 

PaulSB

Legendary Member
Three weeks ago I finally bought one of those chain cleaners that clips over the chain and hooks round the jockey wheel. All I can say is the results are amazing and because there is no crap present for more road muck to cling to the chain stays clean for longer.

First time it's used one needs to be really thorough.

I've also started lubing the inside of the chain and being scrupulous about wiping off the excess. The combination of the two, which I learnt here, is marvellous.
 
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