Clipless Pedals FAQ

[gaz]

I have gone clipless. SPD-SLs... I don't find unclipping a problem and I'm quite happy to unclip at the last moment. The hard bit for me is clipping in, though. When turning right out of a junction this is particularly bad, I find myself coasting across the road slowly without being able to pedal while trying to feel my way into the other pedal... not fun especially when the junction is uphill. In fact today I chickened out of one junction that is quite busy and uphill and turned into a pedestrian with a strange walk for a little while. Hopefully this will become easier...

It just takes practice. The SPD-SL and other road pedals like it point up when you are not clipped in. This is due to the clipping mechanism at the back and the pedals have a loop area at the top where you have to get the cleat in.
The best way to do this is to have your clipped in foot at around 1-2 o'clock and push off hard (don't be in a pansy gear, but don't be in a hard gear either) leave the clipped in foot at the 6 o'clock position, now learn where that 12 0'clock position is and aim for that with your shoe, the cleat should catch the loop and a simple press down will have you clipped in.

 

[Borbus]

Thanks for the advice. I think I actually have a problem with my left pedal, it has become stiff and won't drop down under its own weight. When I first got them I pedaled backwards and the axle in the left one actually unscrewed from the pedal body... I spun it back the other way and it screwed up again and now it won't unscrew whichever way I spin it but after only about 50 miles of riding it has gone really stiff.

I wonder if I should just send it back? Servicing it doesn't seem fun since I don't have a vice.

 

[mickle]

Thanks for the advice. I think I actually have a problem with my left pedal, it has become stiff and won't drop down under its own weight. When I first got them I pedaled backwards and the axle in the left one actually unscrewed from the pedal body... I spun it back the other way and it screwed up again and now it won't unscrew whichever way I spin it but after only about 50 miles of riding it has gone really stiff.

I wonder if I should just send it back? Servicing it doesn't seem fun since I don't have a vice.

Warranty??

 

[Cubist]

For those that were puzzled by MacB's reluctance to endorse clipless pedals, we have discovered early footage of his first "moment"

View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L88tn5Si7OA&feature=related

 

[rossjevans]

I have just ordered my first pair of SPD shoes. How difficult is it to setup the cleat position? Is it worth paying for another bike fit at my LBS or would I be better trying different positions out myself to find the most comfortable? My bike has already been setup for me when I purchased it but that was with the standard toe-clips.

 

[Cubist]

I have just ordered my first pair of SPD shoes. How difficult is it to setup the cleat position? Is it worth paying for another bike fit at my LBS or would I be better trying different positions out myself to find the most comfortable? My bike has already been setup for me when I purchased it but that was with the standard toe-clips.

DO it yourself. It's a bit trial and error, but as a rule of thumb start off with the cleats on the line of your bunion joint. You can use a soft pencil to mark this off onto the sole of your shoe. Also consider whether you need to angle the cleat inwards a little if you walk or stand at ten to two or whatever.

Try this neutral midpoint for starters, and if you aren't comfortable shift the cleats towards your toes for more power, or towards the ball of your foot for a comfortable "softer" option.

 

[rossjevans]

Thanks Cubist.

I went out for my first clipless ride tonight, only 10 miles or so I just wanted to get a feel for them and practice clipping in and out. I tried the neutral position suggested and this was fine on my left foot but didn't feel quite so comfortable on my right. Trouble is it is difficult to put my finger on what exactly is the problem i.e. whether it's the forward/backward positioning or angle. The positioning of the cleat looks to be the same between shoes so is it okay to adjust the position independently between shoes or should they always be the same?

More importantly however, at no point did I end up in a heap on the ground tonight and I can already feel the performance and extra comfort of having proper shoes. (The flexible trainers and toe-clips I used previously had started to give me achilles pain). Very happy overall

Thanks.

 

[Andrew_P]

I have a decision to make, commute around 15 miles each way and only have 9 junctions/traffic lights. Hardly any walking to do either end. I have a road bike.

I understand that MTB are easier to clip in and out, but I am a bit of cosmetic plonker, and I prefer the SPD-SL inparticular the Black Shimano 105, and prefer the look of the road shoes.

I had a quick look in Evans and couldn't figure out the lip at the fron of the pedal? It "looked" like the shoe sat on top of the lip and "looked" like there would be a gap betwen the shoe and pedal. I know I have this wrong but still couldn't figure it out!

Anyway reading lots of threads it seems the MTB unclip is a twist or push to left/right to unclip how about the SL's?

One of my traffic lights is midway up a fairly steep hill if I get caught on red with my clips I find it quite hard to get get my foot in whilst keeping a reasonable speed starting up the hill and sometimes keep my foot on the "other side" until enough motion to faff around spinning the pedal round. It looks like the SL can be pedaled unclipped, is this the case?

So apart from being a plonker any advice either way?

 

[Zinthar]

Has anyone had experience with the Speedplay pedals? I've got cages right now, and have always used them. I'm comfortable with them but, want to go the extra 'mile' and get a clipless solution. Any thoughts on Speedplay as opposed to the SPD's/Look's?

 

[Rocket]

Interesting to read about clipless pedals, I have always used toe clips and straps, and was tought to use a pull up on the pedals as well as the normal down stroke,and believe this makes for much better pedaling action.
Ron

 

[Zinthar]

Interesting to read about clipless pedals, I have always used toe clips and straps, and was tought to use a pull up on the pedals as well as the normal down stroke,and believe this makes for much better pedaling action.
Ron

I thought so too, until I read this article...I've been working on using this method and it really has helped me.

http://www.bicycling.com/training-nutrition/training-fitness/perfect-pedal-stroke

 

[MacB]

I thought so too, until I read this article...I've been working on using this method and it really has helped me.

http://www.bicycling...ct-pedal-stroke

Quite a good description that one, force on the downstroke, a push me/pullme on the two transitions and a lightening of the foot at the back.

As Cubist knows all of this is achievable with no clips, straps or other stabilising equipment...just good technique, pedals and shoes.

 

[GrasB]

Zinthar, unfortunately I've got a load of power plots which show when pushing hard at 60-140 rpm I'm producing negative power (eg resisting the pedals going round) for about 25-30 degrees. When riding at a moderate effort or when sprinting it's more like 60-90 degrees of negative power production. My power production isn't atypical of a decent road racer. It also flies mostly in the face of what that article says as the period of negative power is at the top of the pedal stroke.

 

[MacB]

Zinthar, unfortunately I've got a load of power plots which show when pushing hard at 60-140 rpm I'm producing negative power (eg resisting the pedals going round) for about 25-30 degrees. When riding at a moderate effort or when sprinting it's more like 60-90 degrees of negative power production. My power production isn't atypical of a decent road racer.

pedalling in squares?

 

[GrasB]

I'd guess it's more kind of egg shaped.