Complete overhaul or new bike?

[FlyingCyclist]

Hi people. New person on here, I'm a beginner so please don't be too tenchical with me lol

I lost interest in biking a few years ago due to health problems (painful leg ulcers) and I'm just getting back into cycling now.

I have a WestCoast BSA bike. Old I know!!!

Before I gave up cycling, I added some v-brakes (shimano) on the bikes to replace the cantilevers because they were rubbish! I haven't ridden it since installing them so they are not bedded in!

The last time I cleaned it, the hub needed new bearings.

The gears need fixing as they won't change to first gear because the mech is too high. I think I messed them up because I took it apart to clean.

I think the teeth on the cassette and crankset need replacing.

I gave the bike a good wash on Saturday and noticed that there was a little rust? dried on the rear wheel from two of the nipples.

I'm wondering if I should give it a complete overhaul with new parts, or should I buy a new bike? I've been looking at Cyclocross and Road bikes.

Considering these two types of bikes, I have no idea which one would suit my needs. I would do a lot of road biking at home in Yorkshire, but if I take the bike to Scotland, then I would ride on bumpy roads. And tracks (with tarmac in both sides and grass in the middle).

I want to rider faster than I have been doing with this bike. I've ridden to work and it has taken me 1 hour to get there and 2 hours to get home (All hilly on the way home).

I need to get back into cycling again to get in shape and to lose a few stones, I'm only 11stone, but I used to be thin!!!

Thanks

P.S. Last photo showing track (Can get worse than this with patches of tarmac re-done in places). Yes it's an excellent view!

[/img]

 

[ScotiaLass]

Hi, I won't say anything technical because it baffles me
I got back into cycling on my 8 yr old mountain bike. It was heavy and I was struggling with my health issues.
I made the decision to get a new bike and the difference is just worlds apart! It is light, has hydraulic brakes which has given me more confidence, and as it's a ladies specific frame, it fits perfectly.
I am so pleased I decided to get a new one. I cycle mainly on towpaths, light trails and cycle paths so it was a choice between a mountain bike or a hybrid. I've only ever known mountain bikes so went with that.
If you are going to be on tracks, I'd suggest a hybrid - it will cope with those, plus be faster on the road than a mountain bike. I'm sure you'll get lots of input from others - they helped me with my decision and I'm really happy.
Whatever you decide, try out a few different models at your local bike shop. I've found mine to be nothing but helpful!
Good luck!

 

[Roadrider48]

Adjust the B-tension screw on the derailleur to move it away from the cassette and do a general lube up, then see how she rides.
If you are particularly drawn to a new bike, then so be it.
The cassette doesn't look too bad.

 

[HLaB]

Adjust the b screw as said, lube ride and enjoy. One change that may make a faster ride is to put less nobbly tyres on.

 

[FlyingCyclist]

B screw? I only have a High and Low screws. Which one should I turn?

I was actually going to mention slicks, but I left it out.

These look ok, but there are a few others, that I could look at. (26"wheel)
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/..._productId_259551_langId_-1_categoryId_242553


I have never had the bike serviced before, so maybe I should get it done? Should I get a full service done? And is £80 too high? On top of cost, I would have to buy new items if they need replacing.

 

[I like Skol]

Hi David and welcome to the forum.

How long is a piece of string? You could throw money at putting lots of new parts on that bike and make it work well or you could buy a new one. In my opinion you should do neither, yet!

The bike you have looks quite low budget with some basic components but there is no reason why it shouldn't work ok with the bits it has. Maybe just a new gear cable and adjustments to the low/hi screws on the derailleur (see you tube for an explanation) are all that is needed. The freewheel (it's not a cassette on your bike) doesn't look particularly worn and the beauty of low spec parts is that they will often tolerate higher levels of wear and still work ok.

I suggest you give this bike some TLC and see how you get on with riding for a while. If you love it and don't have any health issues and still have the new bike bug then go for it. The best thing is you can always keep this bike for trundling to the shops or riding to the pub, where you can lock it up without worrying that someone is going to steal your 'best bike' while your back is turned

 

[I like Skol]

One change that may make a faster ride is to put less nobbly tyres on.

It doesn't have to be about speed, just ease and confidence. They look like a reasonable combination/compromise mixed trail tyre so don't rush to throw them away unless you are going to ride exclusively on tarmac. The best thing is to keep the tyres you have pumped up. Check the sidewalls for the max rated pressure and if it is allowed pump them to around 50-60psi for an easy rolling ride.

EDIT: That view and track look superb, is that your commute you lucky devil? By the way, if you can manage with your current bike for this summer the retailers/manufacturers start to heavily discount this years bikes in the autumn to shift old stock as the next years models start to come out. You can get 30-40% discounts in many cases.

 

[HLaB]

It doesn't have to be about speed, just ease and confidence. They look like a reasonable combination/compromise mixed trail tyre so don't rush to throw them away unless you are going to ride exclusively on tarmac. The best thing is to keep the tyres you have pumped up. Check the sidewalls for the max rated pressure and if it is allowed pump them to around 50-60psi for an easy rolling ride.

EDIT: That view and track look superb, is that your commute you lucky devil? By the way, if you can manage with your current bike for this summer the retailers/manufacturers start to heavily discount this years bikes in the autumn to shift old stock as the next years models start to come out. You can get 30-40% discounts in many cases.

Hence why I said may

 

[shouldbeinbed]

up to you but it looks in decent nick, a few cheap go faster changes could be, switch the quill stem for (dunno the name) a stem post and flatter handlebar mounting bit, it'll make you a bit less sit up and beg. Bar ends to change hand position and stretch you out even more.
From what I can see the cassette looks like you could drop a couple of teeth to a more speed oriented one without losing too much uphill poke.

you could get away with smoother profile tyres, depending on how bad the trail gets, looks pretty ok there but noting your comment.

or

N+1 & keep the BSA as a winter runabout that you'll not worry about getting dirty or salty.

You say you've had it apart for cleaning so check the siting on the downtube of the front mech before adjusting the hi-lo screws, be sure it is running in line with the chain and the right distance from the front cogs, also check the cable is running freely all the way, is tensioned pretty well right, hasn't slipped at all & is threaded into the front mech properly. give it all a good dollop of lube or oil too, just to be sure and then start fine tuning it on the screws & barrel adjustor.
Edit: hi lo screws basically just to limit the chain from jumping off top & bottom cog before anyone picks up my poor phraseology

or N+1

 

[FlyingCyclist]

Hi David and welcome to the forum.

How long is a piece of string? You could throw money at putting lots of new parts on that bike and make it work well or you could buy a new one. In my opinion you should do neither, yet!

The bike you have looks quite low budget with some basic components but there is no reason why it shouldn't work ok with the bits it has. Maybe just a new gear cable and adjustments to the low/hi screws on the derailleur (see you tube for an explanation) are all that is needed. The freewheel (it's not a cassette on your bike) doesn't look particularly worn and the beauty of low spec parts is that they will often tolerate higher levels of wear and still work ok.

I suggest you give this bike some TLC and see how you get on with riding for a while. If you love it and don't have any health issues and still have the new bike bug then go for it. The best thing is you can always keep this bike for trundling to the shops or riding to the pub, where you can lock it up without worrying that someone is going to steal your 'best bike' while your back is turned

I'll always have health issues for the rest of my life. But if I keep wearing compression stockings and keep walking/cycling then I'll be ok.....hopefully.

Yes, it was around £200 14years ago (approx!!)

I'll do what you say, but should I take it to a bike shop and have it fully serviced? (I wrote this before but message needed approving.)

The only thing I hate about the bike is that it's blooming heavy and I'd rather own a lighter one!

It doesn't have to be about speed, just ease and confidence. They look like a reasonable combination/compromise mixed trail tyre so don't rush to throw them away unless you are going to ride exclusively on tarmac. The best thing is to keep the tyres you have pumped up. Check the sidewalls for the max rated pressure and if it is allowed pump them to around 50-60psi for an easy rolling ride.

EDIT: That view and track look superb, is that your commute you lucky devil? By the way, if you can manage with your current bike for this summer the retailers/manufacturers start to heavily discount this years bikes in the autumn to shift old stock as the next years models start to come out. You can get 30-40% discounts in many cases.

The tyre pressure for those are 45-60 PSI.

Sadly that view is on a private road in Scotland (Loch Caolisport) on an estate called Ellary. The track runs from one side of the loch to another one just north into Loch Sween.

 

[Widge]

Bike looks as though there is still plenty ' O life' left in it yet..............a bit hard to tell for sure from pics alone though.

Agree with previous posters....................maybe a new stem.....'less sit-up-beg-and wobble' and perhaps (at least) a new rear dérailleur cable. Some slicko tyres may also make a difference ( thinking 'Schwalbe City Jet or similar).

I have just done up a 'shed-bike' not too dissimilar to this with great results. If you can get it riding smoothly now for not too much outlay you will be in a better situation to decide what you want from a NEW bike.

 

[FlyingCyclist]

Keep forgetting to add.

Do these prices seem about right?

If I go with the Full Service it'll be £80 but if I need new items, then it'll be more. Would it be worth it at that price, or should I look somewhere else?

http://www.airevalleycycles.com/workshop.php

 

[doog]

Great looking frame (I could make a tourer out of that ) As suggested above, stick some city jets on and it will become quicker. Ask your bike shop if they will do a simple gear service if youre struggling, shouldnt be more than £20. My guess is that you havent put several thousand miles on it since new, so the front mech / cassette etc should be fine.

 

[FlyingCyclist]

Great looking frame (I could make a tourer out of that ) As suggested above, stick some city jets on and it will become quicker. Ask your bike shop if they will do a simple gear service if youre struggling, shouldnt be more than £20. My guess is that you havent put several thousand miles on it since new, so the front mech / cassette etc should be fine.

Lol. Nopeee I haven't put that many miles on the bike lol. But I have neglected washing it and looking after it. The frame is ok, but it really does need a good clean and regreasing/lubing. As I said before when I last took the front apart, there was either ball bearing missing or they were in half!! I put them back in though.

Also I've just found out that both wheel hubs move when the wheel is turning.

 

[FlyingCyclist]

I took the back wheel off. Had a look at the ball bearings, then put it back together again. I'm just going to take it to my local shop and let them sort it. I need to buy a tool to get the crank off anyway.

I might as well have it 'professionally' fixed instead of myself making a complete mess of it.

I think I've used the wrong sort of grease when I put the headset and front hub together. I used PURE's Bike Grease. When I moved the bike on Saturday, turning the front wheel was stiff. I;m sure it's all down due to the grease I used.