Completely stubborn quick link removal

[Jimmy Splash]

I've watched videos and have tried anything and everything to remove a quick link but it will not budge.
Any suggestions please

 

[C R]

I've watched videos and have tried anything and everything to remove a quick link but it will not budge.
Any suggestions please

Do you have quick link pliers? If not, needle nose pliers would do. I have also seen a suggestion of using a cable tie over the two rollers and keep pulling the end to squeeze the rollers together.

 

[fossyant]

Any needle nose pliers in the tool box. Other one is using a shoe lace. Don't forget to squeeze the links together (squeeze each link at the side). Also soak with WD40 or something like brake cleaner to remove any crud that's stopping the links being squeezed.

I've got a specific tool for joining and separating - not expensive - saves oily fingers to some extent.

 

[Webbo2]

A piece of wire as thick as you can get through the link then pull it squeeze the link. Or get the link on your big chain ring and move the chain so the link is standing off the ring then hit it with something heavy. I’ve seen a video of it being done with a rock, it’s a method for undoing the link when you are out on the road. Both methods work as I had to use then before I bought a tool.

 

[Big John]

Depends on how rusty the chain is. If it's proper rusty....bolt croppers. It does mean you'll need a set of bolt croppers though

 

[Sharky]

Alternatively, leave the quick link alone and split the chain somewhere else and use another quick link to rejoin. Will shorten the chain by 1/2", but shouldn't be a problem .

 

[Yellow Saddle]

The mechanism of the quick link is very misunderstood. They are made to be compressed before sliding apart. Pliers often destroy that safety mechanism. If the chain is very dirty, it doesn't compress well. Then you first have to wiggle the link a bit to clear it of dirt that prevents compression.



https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/kmc-quick-links-11sp.194897/#post-4122564

https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/kmc-quick-link.220584/page-2

 

[ColinJ]

The mechanism of the quick link is very misunderstood. They are made to be compressed before sliding apart. Pliers often destroy that safety mechanism.

I hadn't thought of it being a safety feature. That makes sense!

I just noticed your avatar, which reminds me of this...

That's a blast from the past ... I haven't cut a Veroboard track since doing my university project in 1985/6!

A fellow student was having problems with his Veroboard-hosted circuit. Apparently, it hadn't occurred to him that some tracks would need cutting ... I had to explain to him that resistors and capacitors soldered along tracks might as well not be there!

 

[Yellow Saddle]

I hadn't thought of it being a safety feature. That makes sense!

I just noticed your avatar, which reminds me of this...

Ha ha...Veroboard. I remember those. I used to cut the tracks by using a 5m or so drill bit, IIRC. I also remember bread board, I think it was called.

But back to the topic. Yes, I've had a damaged quick link undo itself whilst riding. That's when I decided to look into it.

 

[Psamathe]

I often use the chainwheel. Difficult to explain but move the chain a link round the chainwheel round the quicklink ie so the quicklink is out from the chainwheel. Then tap one side of the link with a convenient hammer/stone/etc. Did a quick online search and this probably explains what I do far clearer than words

 

[fossyant]

I often use the chainwheel. Difficult to explain but move the chain a link round the chainwheel round the quicklink ie so the quicklink is out from the chainwheel. Then tap one side of the link with a convenient hammer/stone/etc. Did a quick online search and this probably explains what I do far clearer than words
View attachment 787558

Yikes, that is how things get damaged. Squeeze and push together, or squeeze and use a tool.

 

[Ajax Bay]

The mechanism of the quick link [requires them] to be compressed before sliding apart.

Compressed along the line of the chain, right. Not sideplates squeezed together.
How can that be misunderstood? A quick link will not part unless the half link is put in compression.

And for @Big_John a chain tool/cutter is safer and almost as quick as bolt croppers. Cut a rusty chain yesterday on my daughter's first (10 years ago) road bike - abandoned and no room in the inn for it, so I repatriated it, to Devon. She has others now, with this (image from Nice a year ago) being the sharpest weapon. 21 days to IMWC Kona, ftw.
https://cdn.triathlete.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/5P5A1604-3-1200x675.jpg

Note: Velominati rules followed: chain on the big dog and valves at 6 o'clock. Cranks not at 90 degrees. And no, that chain is not 'rusty' gold.

 

[Jimmy Splash]

Do you have quick link pliers? If not, needle nose pliers would do. I have also seen a suggestion of using a cable tie over the two rollers and keep pulling the end to squeeze the rollers together.

my needle nose pliers do not fit through the links to get to the quick link

 

[Jimmy Splash]

Any needle nose pliers in the tool box. Other one is using a shoe lace. Don't forget to squeeze the links together (squeeze each link at the side). Also soak with WD40 or something like brake cleaner to remove any crud that's stopping the links being squeezed.

I've got a specific tool for joining and separating - not expensive - saves oily fingers to some extent.

I've squirted gt85, wd40, degreaser all over it. no effect

 

[Jimmy Splash]

Depends on how rusty the chain is. If it's proper rusty....bolt croppers. It does mean you'll need a set of bolt croppers though

The chain isn't rusty. a little dirty but no rust