Convert to one chain ring.

[huggybear0]

Hi I have a Trek ex8 2011 with Shimano M552, 42/32/24.

I would like to convert it to one chain ring. The videos on the web show it is possible to remove the large and small chain ring then get shorter bolts and use the 32 ring.

It then just remains to remove the front derailleur and gear mechanism and it should work

can I just ask has anyone done it and is it really that easy or is more required to set it up.

 

[Cycleops]

Never done it but should be very straightforward. Just make sure you won’t miss those extra gears

 

[DCLane]

I'm doing this with my son's hillclimb bike build. You'll need a set of single speed / track chainring bolts. You may also need a chain guide to help prevent the chain coming off.

 

[figbat]

It should be as easy as you make out. You may wish to fit one or more "bash rings" to the crank in place of the removed chainrings just to keep it neat and tidy and help protect the remaining chainring. If you wanted to take it further you might consider getting a wider-range cassette to cover some of your missing gear ratios.

 

[Sharky]

Done on my road bike. Fitted a narrow/wide ring at the front and shortened the chain. Fit the chain ring on the inner or outer positions depending on the best alignment for the type of riding you do.

 

[I like Skol]

I need to ask why?

 

[Tenacious Sloth]

I need to ask why?

It’s probably to increase the value of the bike. Like supercars, the more bits you remove - the more they cost.

 

[huggybear0]

Would I need to add a something to keep the chain in place such as a guide or something.

 

[figbat]

You might. Shortening the chain will help avoid jumping off, as will adding bash rings. You can pick up a cheap chain guide that mounts to the seat tube - I run one on my 1x conversion. I also run a narrow-wide chainring, which you may also consider.

 

[huggybear0]

You might. Shortening the chain will help avoid jumping off, as will adding bash rings. You can pick up a cheap chain guide that mounts to the seat tube - I run one on my 1x conversion. I also run a narrow-wide chainring, which you may also consider.

Hi can you send me some pictures of yours please.

 

[Sharky]

I need to ask why?

In my case, I was forever doing the "Campag Shuffle". That's changing up on the front and down at the rear and in the dark on my commute home, often ended up in the small/small combinations. Switching to a 1x9, then a 1x10 made it a simple click up or down to change gear. And without the double at the front, I can get all 10 gears running smoothly. I was confident that it would work for me, as one of my other bikes is a single speed, running a 68" gear, so having 10 gears is a luxury. Think my range is now 40" to 90" ish, which just about gets me up most hills round here (and it is hilly in Kent) and a 90" is more than adequate for flats/descents.

 

[fossyant]

You may need a wider cassette and you could be limited by the rear mech as it's not designed for bigger cassettes, assuming you still want to get up big hills off road. Otherwise you'll be pushing.

 

[jowwy]

narrow wide chainrings are a better option than bash guards and look better....cheap as chips on ebay or superstar components

can get most sizes whether its for mtb, road, cross or gravel

 

[figbat]

Hi can you send me some pictures of yours please.

(ignore the bike rack clamp).

 

[rogerzilla]

I did this on my 2 x 9 TSR. It just worked at first, with a 10-speed 105 rear mech. Then I fitted a 9-speed Dura-Ace mech and it started unshipping the chain frequently when changing gear, so I fitted a chain guide. Then I solved the problem altogether by making it a fixie!

So...you either need a clutched rear mech, a 10 speed mech with a strongish spring, a narrow-wide chainring or a chain guide.