Converting 2x10 to 1x10

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.

Motozulu

Über Member
Location
Rugeley, Staffs
Yes it does. A mate said 'why not change to a 30 up front?' and tbh I could get away with it around Cannock, which is quite flat, comparatively. The Fatty will be going to places like Degla though so I reckon then, it'll be perfect as it is.
 

Flyboy

Well-Known Member
Location
Tranmere
Just work it out , most of the time you are actually not better off going 1x11

Number of teeth on chainring X wheel diameter then divide by the number of teeth on your rear cog.
You then have Gear development number . The X THIS by 3.142 that will give you the distance you move per full revolution .
The less the number the easier you go up hill.
 

Motozulu

Über Member
Location
Rugeley, Staffs
The biggest reason I went 1x10 was to make me fitter - as I fully realised that converting a 3x10 bike would mean I'd have to work harder and not wimp out with the granny ring.
Same with 1x11. Also - I wanted rid of the left hand shifter and the mud catcher of a front mech. Easier to maintain, less to go wrong, cleaner, simpler lines.

It makes perfect sense.
 

Flyboy

Well-Known Member
Location
Tranmere
At least you have a valid reason, a lot of people just go with trends and actually wonder why they can't get up hills anymore "ON THE LATEST UP TO DATE SETUP" .
 
OP
OP
3narf

3narf

For whom the bell dings
Location
Tetbury
Done!

IMAG3724.jpg IMAG3727.jpg IMAG3729.jpg
 
OP
OP
3narf

3narf

For whom the bell dings
Location
Tetbury
Sweet , take it . It's a narrow wide etc etc

Yes, RaceFace N/W ring.
 

prawny

Active Member
Location
Cannock Chase
30/11-36 for me on a 650b. Mainly because the chain line is better on the 30t that the 32, and I didn't have to faff around looking for spacers/longer bolts.
 
OP
OP
3narf

3narf

For whom the bell dings
Location
Tetbury
30/11-36 for me on a 650b. Mainly because the chain line is better on the 30t that the 32, and I didn't have to faff around looking for spacers/longer bolts.

I'm wondering about spacing the chainring in a bit; the chain is straight on the 4th smallest cog. I guess I'd need spacers about 10mm thick, though, to have any significant effect...

IMAG3771.jpg
 

Mb49

Regular
Location
West Sussex
I really don't see what all the must have 1x is about.I can see how in some disciplines of the sport it might help.As if top flight ,every gram saved adds to performance, and with only 1 set of gears means less to go wrong. But I fail to see how a 1x is as good as 2x on a trail bike.it might get close-ish but not as good. I ride a 2x10speed 28-40t,11-36 XT geared steel hardtail with rc3l forks.which i regularly do swinley on (B/R/B). I recently built a full suspension Codeine 650b, the frame, fork and shock kit I purchased was such a good deal, even though it was a 1x.I put a lot of time, trouble and thought into its gearing and myself and lbs came up with 1x11speed 36t, 11-46 as being the closest we could get to my 2x set up.top speed on my Codeine I found to be about ½ a gear down on my hardtail, which I can live with, the lowest gear is same as my hardtail.but it's the big gaps inbetween the gears i find detract from a good ride, as seem to lose a lot of flow, and where there'd be like 2 gears to choose from , your stuck with 1 which might not be the best for any given situation.i don't find the front mech is in anyway a problem.and sram Eagle is like way too much money and still has really big gaps . Any views
 
Top Bottom