Cutting mudguard stsys
- Thread starter Fifelad
- Start date
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A faster way to hacksaw stainless is to saw undeep diametrical grooves in it, then with the grooves serving as both beginning and right location, bend bend bend bend and it breaks, saving a big part of the Saws Intensive Manual Labor.
Works less fast on non stainless because not as quickly fatigued.
Works less fast on non stainless because not as quickly fatigued.
mickle
innit
- Location
- 53.933606, -1.076131
Bolt croppers are the tool of choice in bike shop workshops. The flying offcut projectiles have enough energy to break a window or stick in a ceiling.
In the absence if the appropriate tools, simply bending the excess end downwards at a right angle is also a valid solution. And probably the fastest.
In the absence if the appropriate tools, simply bending the excess end downwards at a right angle is also a valid solution. And probably the fastest.
I've used two methods, with similar success, the latter being faster.
Hacksaw to cut part way through stay, then two pairs of hefty mole grips, one pair to grip the part that is staying, I wrap that part in something protective, the other side of the cut I use the 2nd pair of moleys to pivot the metal and enlargen the cut until it gives up and breaks - this usually takes only a few seconds.
The cut is sharp, but mine have always come with some kind of rubber boot thing to go on the end.
The second cleaner and quicker method is a dremel.
Hacksaw to cut part way through stay, then two pairs of hefty mole grips, one pair to grip the part that is staying, I wrap that part in something protective, the other side of the cut I use the 2nd pair of moleys to pivot the metal and enlargen the cut until it gives up and breaks - this usually takes only a few seconds.
The cut is sharp, but mine have always come with some kind of rubber boot thing to go on the end.
The second cleaner and quicker method is a dremel.
Rotary tool with a cutting disc is the wy forward IME as the stays are pretty hard (possibly cold-drawn so will have work-hardened) so using a saw will be potentially messy (potential to skip when starting) laborious and won't do the blade any favours.
A good rotary tool is an excellent asset that's useful for many things - in a cycling context they're also good for clean cuts on gear / break outer cables as well as sanding the callouses on my hands and a million other uses
A good rotary tool is an excellent asset that's useful for many things - in a cycling context they're also good for clean cuts on gear / break outer cables as well as sanding the callouses on my hands and a million other uses
