Cycling in Cambodia

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User66445

Guest
Location
France
Long shot this one. I'm planning to head down the west bank of Tonle Sap from Battambang to Phnom Penh later this year.

Anyone done this route? I'm particularly concerned about accommodation after Moung Ruessei, as I don't particularly want to do more than about 50km per day and it looks like I might have to do a leg > 100km. Appreciate I can head to the main road and get a bus, but would rather avoid this.

Given the lack of hotels, are there any homestays on this route, particularly in the floating villages? I haven't found many on google.
 
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Over 10 years since I cycled in that area, but this guy Stephen Peel has been in that area. https://www.facebook.com/MrStephenJohnPeel maybe he can give you some advice.
 

John Peel

Senior Member
Location
Cheshire England
Anyone done this route? I'm particularly concerned about accommodation after Moung Ruessei, as I don't particularly want to do more than about 50km per day and it looks like I might have to do a leg > 100km. Appreciate I can head to the main road and get a bus, but would rather avoid this.

Given the lack of hotels, are there any homestays on this route, particularly in the floating villages? I haven't found many on google.

Hi Avole, I entered Cambodia from O Smach border crossing from Thailand, so I wasn't on your route south of Siem Reap. My route was O Smach - Samraong - Kralanh - Siem Reap and on to Phnom Penh before heading to the Vietnam border and Ho Chi Minh City.

You are right about lack of places to stay out in the wide open spaces. I rode 35 km's to the Thai border at O Smach early in the morning, thinking I could get digs just on the other side of the border. Not so, there were a couple of hotels but they wouldn't let my bike inside and wanted me to just leave it on the front. Nope.

So I rode on to the only other place I could see digs on Google Maps. By the time I found some crappy digs I was 90 km's in and knackered in the heat and humidity. But, the map only showed a couple of guesthouses but on a walkabout around the dingy town, I found a fair few more.

Doing a search it seems doesn't result in all hotels and guesthouses. That said, it was another 80 km's the next day before I found another one. They are hidden away and look like shops with a canopy on the front and a couple of floors above, so the best thing to do is ask someone if there is a place to stay in any small village or town you come across, you might be surprised.

Take bug spray with you though. Most of these places are pretty crummy but at least A/C and shower in the room. I spray my rooms after a shower and doing my washing that I hang on the A/C or fan, then take a walk for food for an hour then go back in and clear up the roaches and critters. The bug spray doesn't seem to harm the geckos though which is cool, although they do make a racket in the night, like chirping chicks.

I've had to leave my bike and gear in Ho Chi Minh while I do a short return to the UK for medical reasons, but I will be back in a few weeks time, probably mid October. From there I will be cycling down to the Mekong Delta then back into Cambodia along the coastline and into Thailand that way.

I did wonder about heading up to Battambang for a Thai visa, but I'm told I would only get the same visa there as I would on the coastal border, a one month visa. I would have to go back to Phnom Penh to get a longer visa and although I though it was OK there for a few days, I don't really want to cycle all the way back.

After Moung Ruessei on your route to Phnom Penh, it's 58 km's to Phsa Chas with a number of places to stay.
From Phsa Chas it's going to be a short one or 100 km's otherwise, so go to Paris Hotel in Krakor at 33 km's from Phsa Chas.
From Krakor it's 64 km's to Krong Kampong where it looks like you might be spoiled for choice of places to stay.
From there it is 52 km's to Oudongk and Udong Me Chhey Guest House and maybe more.
Then you only have 46 km's to Phnom Penh, Hurrah!

Don't forget, when you find one guesthouse or hotel there are usually others, so ask in case you can't recognise one.

All the best. Steve

https://www.stephenpeel.co.uk/

Oh, in late October and onward it will be easier to camp if you want to, as hopefully the rains and humidity I battled with will be much less.
 
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User66445

Guest
Location
France
Hi Stephan,

Thanks for your comprehensive reply. I can appreciate you problems after crossing the border. Did almost the same thing myself on my first day cycling down the east coast of Malaysia, however that was caused by my misreading of the map - 90km until a well-intentioned local picked me up in his truck and took me the remaining kms into a local village with a hotel.

I'm travelling really light, and the aim is around 50km a day in the early hours before it gets hot, so the itinerary you suggest is a good one, and in fact managed to book some places at Moung Ruessei and Pouthisat. That makes a stop in Krakor more-or-less obligatory, as otherwise it's 100km to Kampong Chhnang, so the Paris Hotel is a good option. The info re Oudong is most welcome. I hadn't found anything at but particularly wanted to spend some time there. After that, it's a direct flight back to Bangkok.

I'd be interested to hear about your time in the Mekong delta, since I'm flying into HCM in January to cycle through the delta into Cambodia via Phu Quoc. This is actually the longer trip, and I'll be using my touring bike so can carry more than I can the folder with one bag I'll be using in Cambodia.
 

John Peel

Senior Member
Location
Cheshire England
I'd be interested to hear about your time in the Mekong delta, since I'm flying into HCM in January to cycle through the delta into Cambodia via Phu Quoc.

I'm looking forward to the Mekong Delta. My wife will be flying to HCMC with me and we will be spending 2 weeks together before she returns to the UK to cut the grass :smile: I will then have 2 weeks left on a one month visa to reach the coastal Cambodia border, so I will take it slow and enjoy the ride. Once I cross the border I might stay in Kampot for a few days or so, depending on the visa I'm given on the Cambodia border.

I too wish to see Phu Quoc but it will mean getting the ferry from Ha Tien and then back to Ha Tien to continue to the Cambodia border, unless you know of another way from Phu Quoc?

After Kampot it will be Sihanoukville for a few days too to check out Koh Rong island, then to the Cham Yeam border into Thailand. I appreciate I will only be able to get a 1 month Thai visa at this border, I'm told, so will need to extend it in Pattaya if I can, or if I decide I want to continue down through the West Coast of Malaysia to Singapore. If not, I will return home from Bangkok and be very happy with what I've done.

I don't really have much in the way of dates or even real plans, just things I would hope to do and in a direction I'd like to go. But if I can get back to HCMC in middle of next month, I will be moving through the Mekong Delta early Nov and into Thailand by early December. I'm going to have to hope to find some digs in Thailand over Christmas and New Year and can only keep my fingers crossed for that, but I'm likely to be close to Malaysia by then.

All the best on your travels. Steve
 
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User66445

Guest
Location
France
Last time I took the bus from HCMC, but, owing to a slight misunderstanding of the bus system, ended up staying overnight in Rach Gia, which I quite liked, particularly the port area and market. Longer on the hydrofoil, but a pleasant trip nonetheless, winding in parts between the other, mostly uninhabited, islands. This time I'll go to Ha Tien, which I think you are right in saying is the only way to get to the Cambodian border.

I liked Phu Quoc, which is why I'm going back, despite the fact it rained every day I was there. The only thing I'd say is that, the beach is the domain of the expensive hotels and ongoing developments, whilst the budget ones are the other side of what passes as the main road, though it isn't that busy. Mind you, this was in the the centre of the strip, south of the main town, and the north or further south look to be far less developed.

If you're going to Malaysia I assume you're going to pass through Hua Hin, so give me a hoy if you do. I have an apartment there where you'd be welcome to stay unless it's rented out. Did a short trip from there down the coast to Bangsaphan passing through a couple of Thailand's national parks last Christmas.

I'm sure you're aware of the security situation further south when you get into Songkhla province.
 

John Peel

Senior Member
Location
Cheshire England
If you're going to Malaysia I assume you're going to pass through Hua Hin, so give me a hoy if you do. I have an apartment there where you'd be welcome to stay unless it's rented out. Did a short trip from there down the coast to Bangsaphan passing through a couple of Thailand's national parks last Christmas.

I'm sure you're aware of the security situation further south when you get into Songkhla province.

I wasn't aware of the security issues, so just looked it up "Thailand and Malaysia have agreed to proceed with a plan to build a border wall in Thailand's southern province of Songkhla as part of efforts to strengthen security operations and fight transnational crime, the Bangkok Post reported on Friday (March 16)" I'm presuming it's more than just that but if it's all too tricky then I will have to look at other ways of proceeding. And thank you for offering me somewhere to crash if your place is vacant. Steve
 
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User66445

Guest
Location
France
Keep an eye on the Bangkok Post, which contains a lot of local Thai news, plus the Australian Government Smartraveller website. It's a real shame, I went to Songkhla several years ago and found the people friendly and the countryside attractive.

It's a pleasure re the apartment. I'm only there a couple of times a year myself, so it seems a shame to leave it empty. There's also a bike there, if you want to try one of the infamous Brompton copies :smile:
 
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