Damn Shifting!

[nmfeb70]

Hi all, I changed my rear gear cable and housing a week or so ago and have since rode around 70 miles. I indexed the gears to perfection and although I expected 'cable stretch' it still hasn't settled down. I still have to tweak the gears during and after every ride to get the rear mech to shift up or down? Any suggestions or will it eventually shift smoothly? Thanks.

 

[DaveReading]

Disconnect the cable from the shifter and the derailleur and check if the inner now moves freely.

 

[accountantpete]

As above as a first step (but make sure the cable route nearest to the rear mech cable bolt is correct first)

Second step (assuming we are talking briftershere) is make sure the Outer Casing is securely and tightly connected to the shifter and the other points of contact with the frame/mech.

 

[sleuthey]

Perhaps the ferrules are settling.

 

[Big John]

We're all used to fettling our indexing and we assume that a new cable, inner and outer, will usually resolve the problem. In most cases it does but if you have access to a hanger alignment tool it may be worth checking the alignment. I use one in the workshop at the bike charity where I work and they're so useful I made my own (courtesy of YouTube) with bits I'd got knocking around the shed/garage. I checked a number of my bikes and only one was spot on, needing no adjustment. It's surprising how when the hanger is just a tad out of alignment it affects the gear changing. I read a thread on here a while back where one guy said his alignment tool was the most useful tool he owned. I maybe wouldn't go as far as that but they are, IMHO, the missing piece of the indexing jigsaw. Unless the hanger is proper bent it's difficult to tell if it's out of alignment by visual inspection. The tool not only shows you where it needs adjusting but provides the leverage to straighten it.

 

[MontyVeda]

small moves when adjusting the cable... it took me several years of tinkering with indexing to work out that quarter and half turns are all that's needed to get it bob on. And after several new wheels and several new cassettes, i've never needed to readjust the gears.

 

[FaustoCoppi]

Try this...
Shift the chain onto the big front ring and smallest cassette sprocket.

Disconnect the shifter cable at the rear rear derailleur.

using the high low adjuster screws on the rear derailleur line up the cage with the smallest sprocket.

screw the thumb adjuster all the way in.

reconnect the shifter cable, make certain it’s pulled up tight against the mushroom stop at the shifter

turn the pedals and shift up the cassette, if you get resistance or a click click click and the chain refuses to lift onto the next sprocket screw the thumb adjuster out until the chain moves up.

 

[nmfeb70]

Thanks all, when I originally changed the cable I lubricated it with some all weather lube. When I removed it earlier it felt a tad dry so I applied grease instead and went for a ride. It certainly felt a lot crisper when shifting so hopefully that helped. Thanks for all the suggestions 👍👍

 

[keithmac]

I use Hypiod gear oil on the cables and pivots, it sticks and hangs about for a long time.

Indexing wise I aim for middle gear in rear cassette bang on straight and normally just a tweak of Hi and Lo screws.

 

[Ajax Bay]

How does "tweaking [the] Hi and Lo screws" make a difference to the indexing, please?
Regular oiling of derailleur pivot points is good practice - agreed.
Commenting on the OP's oil/grease flip/flop: Oil rather than grease on bits of the stainless steel cable that move in and out of the outer. Grease pulls in moisture. Grease on the cables where they pass under a BB shell.

 

[FaustoCoppi]

It’s about alignment of the cage and jockey wheels so they work smoothly and gives the chain a start point to shift up successive sprockets from the smallest sprocket , this sets the start point from where the chain will shift upwards to ultimately the largest sprocket. I’m no expert, I’ve just learned over many years of cycling, I have a maintenance manual a DK publication with a forward by Chris Sidwells, it has step by step instructions with accompanying photos to assist you. A work stand and a selection of tools that have been amassed over time as and when required, as others have said invest in decent tools and they’ll last many years.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Limit screws limit. They have no effect on indexing. The start point for correct indexing is actually the second smallest sprocket. Get that right and . . . happy days. Set the limit screws (with the cable still in tension) so the chain can drop onto the smallest sprocket (but not further) and so the chain can climb onto the largest sprocket (but not come off towards the spokes).
HTH

 

[FaustoCoppi]

I wonder why then all the manuals I have read all say to line the cage up with the smallest sprocket. I realise the HL screws do not influence indexing.

 

[nmfeb70]

We're all used to fettling our indexing and we assume that a new cable, inner and outer, will usually resolve the problem. In most cases it does but if you have access to a hanger alignment tool it may be worth checking the alignment. I use one in the workshop at the bike charity where I work and they're so useful I made my own (courtesy of YouTube) with bits I'd got knocking around the shed/garage. I checked a number of my bikes and only one was spot on, needing no adjustment. It's surprising how when the hanger is just a tad out of alignment it affects the gear changing. I read a thread on here a while back where one guy said his alignment tool was the most useful tool he owned. I maybe wouldn't go as far as that but they are, IMHO, the missing piece of the indexing jigsaw. Unless the hanger is proper bent it's difficult to tell if it's out of alignment by visual inspection. The tool not only shows you where it needs adjusting but provides the leverage to straighten it.

Thanks. I'll check out that YouTube video.

 

[keithmac]

How does "tweaking [the] Hi and Lo screws" make a difference to the indexing, please?
Regular oiling of derailleur pivot points is good practice - agreed.
Commenting on the OP's oil/grease flip/flop: Oil rather than grease on bits of the stainless steel cable that move in and out of the outer. Grease pulls in moisture. Grease on the cables where they pass under a BB shell.

Just to ensure it doesn't end up in the spokes or drop off the smallest gear. They are worth checking while you're in there.