D
Deleted member 1258
Guest
That might be down to the blocks.
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That might be down to the blocks.
southcoast
Über Member
I seem to remember that the Weinmann black brake blocks, were for steel rims and the orange ones were for alloy rims back in the day. I had the same problem with some Weinmann 500 brakes recently. They came with Weinmann black pads and braking was terrible, hardly worked at all. This was using alloy rims. I fitted some coolstop salmon pads and now the brakes work fine.
Although just remembered, I owned some Weinmann centre pulls in the 70’s, fitted with the orange pads and running steel wheels. Anyway the orange pads always seemed better to me.
Although just remembered, I owned some Weinmann centre pulls in the 70’s, fitted with the orange pads and running steel wheels. Anyway the orange pads always seemed better to me.
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SkipdiverJohn
Deplorable Brexiteer
- Location
- London
My Pioneer pub hack has steel rims and black brake blocks taken from the donor bike (a Ladies Pioneer) and I find that in the dry, the brakes are actually better than on any of my bikes fitted with alloy rims! Steels are also robust, the other day I hit a massive pothole whilst being overtaken by a van and it was enough to put a bulge into the rear rim and cause a nasty brake vibration. This evening I knocked the worst of the bulge flat with a 2lb hammer and squeezed the rim in a bench vice to true it up as much as possible. It's acceptably good for pub use now, and if that wheel had been alloy the pothole would have wrecked it totally.
OP
OP
Illaveago
Guru
- Location
- Chippenham,Wiltshire.
I was having a problem with the front brake rubbing the tyre. I tried adjusting the brake blocks and the caliper but without success. It looked like the brakes didn't have enough reach. I compared the forks with a spare pair that I have and discovered that the dropout extends further. So this morning I set about filing the dropouts out.
I popped the wheel back in and tested the brakes. The brake blocks reached the rim fine but the caliper wasn't centralising. I think one of the return springs had become soft and the stronger one was pulling it to one side. A rummage around in my garage and I found another pair which I fitted. The wheel runs freely now and the brakes work fine.
I popped the wheel back in and tested the brakes. The brake blocks reached the rim fine but the caliper wasn't centralising. I think one of the return springs had become soft and the stronger one was pulling it to one side. A rummage around in my garage and I found another pair which I fitted. The wheel runs freely now and the brakes work fine.
Boon 51
Veteran
- Location
- Deal. Kent.
Your bike is coming on well.. 
southcoast
Über Member
There’s a Dawes Double Blue on eBay at the moment and the chap wants a tidy sum for it!
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dawes-Do...195857?hash=item4d89c9f511:g:z0EAAOSwjmRcJ6fC
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dawes-Do...195857?hash=item4d89c9f511:g:z0EAAOSwjmRcJ6fC
D
Deleted member 1258
Guest
How much!
OP
OP
Illaveago
Guru
- Location
- Chippenham,Wiltshire.
It does look like it is in original condition. I'm not sure if it is Reynolds 531 tubing or Kromo. I suppose it all depends on whether you want to pay that much.
OP
OP
Illaveago
Guru
- Location
- Chippenham,Wiltshire.
A bit of an update !
I have done almost 60 miles on the bike now and the ride has improved a lot since making those few changes. The brakes work well at stopping which gives me the confidence in winding it up a bit . The lower gearing has also helped in that respect although I think steep hills maybe out of the question!
I have discovered that it is a 1964 model which was the last version before they stopped production in favour of the Galaxy. I think the model was revived in the 70's.
From the late 50's to 63/64 the Double Blue was Dawes top of the range sports cycle and seem to have been through quite a few variations in colour scheme and frame material over the years. Some were made with Reynolds 531, and some with Kromo steel. Mine seems to be made from seam welded tubing.
As for how much the bike cost me £130, which had included a service, 2 new tyres and a chain I think is pretty good . I will need to spend some more money in the future in trying to get some large flange wheels and chrome front forks. As for mudguards, I think I will have to make another pair of short ally ones. So what had started off as a relatively cheap cycle soon becomes more expensive as you strive to achieve perfection.
I have done almost 60 miles on the bike now and the ride has improved a lot since making those few changes. The brakes work well at stopping which gives me the confidence in winding it up a bit . The lower gearing has also helped in that respect although I think steep hills maybe out of the question!
I have discovered that it is a 1964 model which was the last version before they stopped production in favour of the Galaxy. I think the model was revived in the 70's.
From the late 50's to 63/64 the Double Blue was Dawes top of the range sports cycle and seem to have been through quite a few variations in colour scheme and frame material over the years. Some were made with Reynolds 531, and some with Kromo steel. Mine seems to be made from seam welded tubing.
As for how much the bike cost me £130, which had included a service, 2 new tyres and a chain I think is pretty good . I will need to spend some more money in the future in trying to get some large flange wheels and chrome front forks. As for mudguards, I think I will have to make another pair of short ally ones. So what had started off as a relatively cheap cycle soon becomes more expensive as you strive to achieve perfection.
rogerzilla
Legendary Member
You can buy new decals for those Weinmann brakes.
EltonFrog
Legendary Member
I never knew that, where, on the bay of E?
rogerzilla
Legendary Member
Yes, from time to time (none there at the moment, just the side-pull ones). They say Vainqueur 610 or 750.
OP
OP
Illaveago
Guru
- Location
- Chippenham,Wiltshire.
I bought a new pair of chrome forks, so this morning I was out in the cold setting about fitting them .
Once I had removed the old forks I could set about measuring them and then marking out the new ones.
The daunting bit was making the saw cut, but after checking my measurements I removed the excess tube. I was happy to see that it was the correct length once I tried it in place. I swapped over the bearings and then fitted the new fork and put everything back together. I thought I would try a pair of my alloy mudguards on it before I went out for my test ride.
It feels fine! I don't know if the new forks make it feel better or if it is new grease in the bearings, but it feels much
smoother!
Once I had removed the old forks I could set about measuring them and then marking out the new ones.
The daunting bit was making the saw cut, but after checking my measurements I removed the excess tube. I was happy to see that it was the correct length once I tried it in place. I swapped over the bearings and then fitted the new fork and put everything back together. I thought I would try a pair of my alloy mudguards on it before I went out for my test ride.
It feels fine! I don't know if the new forks make it feel better or if it is new grease in the bearings, but it feels much
rogerzilla
Legendary Member
Those little mudguards are a real period piece. I remember when all junior racers had them. Goodness knows what the idea behind them was.
I must admit that I crudely cut forks down with a hacksaw and then get them square and smooth by filing. I'm not going to buy a fork cutting guide for a two- or three-times-a-lifetime job. I imagine a mitre saw with a metal cutting blade would do a nice job.
I must admit that I crudely cut forks down with a hacksaw and then get them square and smooth by filing. I'm not going to buy a fork cutting guide for a two- or three-times-a-lifetime job. I imagine a mitre saw with a metal cutting blade would do a nice job.
