Dawes Red Feather Find.

[Illaveago]

How much of the apparent difference is due to the parallax effect of the camera? I can see the frames are not identical but when they are separated by the width of the handlebars it gives a misleading impression. What's the actual TT centre to centre difference and wheelbase difference?

I know that the TT of my Dawes Jaguar is about half an inch longer than my Raleigh Royal, both frames 73 parallel and 23 1/2" sized. The Dawes has less fork rake which more than offsets the longer TT. Chainstays also shorter on the Dawes. The Raleigh is noticeably more relaxed in handling.

I have taken some measurements .
DB TT 23 ins RF TT 22.5 ins. DB HT 6 ins RF HT 6.25 ins. DB CS 17.25 ins RF CS 17.75 ins.

The top tube on the Red Feather is the same dimension as my Raleigh Record Ace.

 

[AuroraSaab]

I've used citric acid a lot to remove rust on my car restoration, both tubs of the solution and the Bilt Hamber Deox gel. It works really well on mild steel. Bar Keepers Friend is a good metal cleaner too, and only £1.50 at Savers or Home Bargains.

 

[SkipdiverJohn]

I have taken some measurements .
DB TT 23 ins RF TT 22.5 ins. DB HT 6 ins RF HT 6.25 ins. DB CS 17.25 ins RF CS 17.75 ins.

The top tube on the Red Feather is the same dimension as my Raleigh Record Ace.

Interesting stuff. Sometimes HT lengths can be purely the result of different BB heights, rather than tyre clearance or other geometry factors such as TT length.
I'm inclined to think Raleigh had a fairly generic set of proportions for their off-the-peg 531 frames, in any given frame size. 22 1/2" is about what my Royal measures. Obviously the SBDU stuff is somewhat more individual.
There seems to be a general rule of thumb that the slower a bike is envisaged to be ridden, the shorter the TT length will be, but it will have longer stays and more fork offset.
I think the TT on my Raleigh Pioneer is not much over 22", thats on a 23 1/2" frame. Gives a nice short reach, but the chainstays are extra long so pannier-friendly.
A non-cyclist could be forgiven for thinking a bike frame is a bike frame but in reality there's a hell of a lot of variables and different design philosophies involved.

 

[Illaveago]

A bit of an update .
I have now done over 70 miles on the Red Feather and it has been behaving well. I have been riding it in the 5 speed set up as I haven't fitted a front changer. The one which came with it was a Huret one, it has cleaned up but it is missing the guide plates. It is actually a 4 speed at the moment as I need to sort out the rear idler. The axle for the idler is too long and forces the cage out which then catches the spokes if I try to engage bottom gear . The pedals have been behaving themselves up until now but have finally started complaining . I will have to take them apart and fit new bearings .
Oh! I forgot to mention that I was having a problem with the front brake cable which kept pulling through under heavy braking. It seems to be holding since the last time I tightened up the clamp .
So the Red Feather wil be put aside for a while whilst I sort those things out . I have enjoyed riding it and still keep an eye out as I pass the place where I found it .

 

[Illaveago]

108 miles now covered and so far it has been trouble free apart from a creaking left hand pedal. I cleaned it and fitted new ball bearings, it still creaks a bit so I will check them again.
I cannot use 1st gear due to the rear idler being too wide. I looked at it the other day but discovered that I can't shorten the idler due to lack of thread on the Campag retaining bolt. I will have to source a shorter bolt. The idler could be ground down to the correct size.
A sudden rainstorm prior to a planned ride meant that I had to fit the rear mudguard in a hurry. It is a Hugh Porter Pursuit by Bantel, the front mudguard was totally destroyed in the fire. The stays survived.
I have been cleaning up some parts ready to go back on . The original brake levers had scratches on them, some of which I managed to file down prior to polishing, the right hand lever had some deep scratches which were too deep. I am waiting for some red plastic handlebar tape to arrive before fitting them. I have found an alloy large flange front wheel to fit on the front, it is slightly different to the original. I have polished it up using Meguiars metal polish and cotton cloth . A small dab on a cloth can bring up a mirror finish. I have given the rear steel wheel a bit of a clean but the chrome is in a bit of a state. I discovered that the hub has 40 spokes which is a bit annoying.
There are a few nice touches that I have discovered whilst dismantling this bike, one of which are the plastic brake cable gaiters, something that I hadn't seen until the late 80's.

 

[Illaveago]

I fitted the original brake levers on yesterday. I had to file out some deep scratches before polishing them up, probably from sliding down a wall when parking. Why is it that bikes are never happy where you park them and think they know better?
Anyway once they were they were fitted I could get on an fit the red plastic bar tape that I was given for Fathers Day.
I think the next thing to do will be to try to sort out the rear mech as the idlers are out of alignment.

 

[roadrash]

just seen a red feather for sale on marketplace and thought of this thread
(2) Marketplace - Vintage (1970s circa) Red Feather Dawes Racer | Facebook

 

[Illaveago]

just seen a red feather for sale on marketplace and thought of this thread
(2) Marketplace - Vintage (1970s circa) Red Feather Dawes Racer | Facebook

I will have to get mine out again . I haven't ridden it for a while .