Disc brakes ..... Any cleaning and wheel changing tips?

[Donger]

I am soon to become the owner of a new bike .... my first to be fitted with cable disc brakes. So cue a couple of rookie questions:

(1) Is there any difference to the technique of removing/refitting the wheels that I should be aware of?

(2) It strikes me that cleaning the cassette now potentially requires greater care to avoid cleaning products/oil splattering onto the rear disc brake due to its proximity. Is there a technique to avoid this?
Any advice for the best way to clean the brakes that won't leave them squealing the next time I use them after washing the bike?

All sensible "do"s and "don't"s gratefully received.

 

[simongt]

Am informed by one of my LBS that cola is good for cleaning the discs.

 

[gavroche]

My Roubaix has cable disc brakes and was told by my LBS that it is actually easier to remove a wheel as you don't have to release the brake blocks. As for cleaning, do they really need cleaning as friction of the pads keeps them clean don't they?

 

[Sea of vapours]

1) Easier to remove the wheel, defintely. Marginally harder to replace as you do need to line the disc up with the gap in the caliper, but it's not exactly a major challenge - a couple of seconds to line it up is all it takes.

2a) Ummm..... don't spray degreaser type cleaning stuff onto the cassette is the solution there, or at least it's a solution (I use thin strips of fabric, sometimes soaked in degreaser of some kind, as floss).
2b) Washing with shampoo/water and not spraying lubricant onto the brakes or discs has led to my never having experienced squealing post-wash, though I've no doubt the right contaminants will achieve it ...

 

[Donger]

Am informed by one of my LBS that cola is good for cleaning the discs.

Be prepared for this to start off a whole new Pepsi/Coke/Dr Pepper debate.

 

[NorthernDave]

Wheel replacement is easy, line it up, drop it in, job done. Just don't pull on the brake lever while the wheel is out (you might get a little plastic bung to put between the pads when the disc is out).

Be careful with things like lube or degreaser, but as regards cleaning I don't treat the disc equipped bike any different to the one with rim brakes.

 

[Levo-Lon]

After a good clean and lube i usually just give the pads and disc a shot of brake cleaner.
It will soon dry and removes any oil and contamination.
Spray a little on the caliper gap so you get the pads and a little on a cloth to wipe the disc

Any brake cleaner will do

 

[andrew_s]

Just don't pull on the brake lever while the wheel is out.

That's a hydraulic brake problem. Cable discs don't self-adjust, and just open out again when you let go of the lever.
As for cleaning, I wipe or drip rather than spraying.

 

[Tangoup51]

I am soon to become the owner of a new bike .... my first to be fitted with cable disc brakes. So cue a couple of rookie questions:

(1) Is there any difference to the technique of removing/refitting the wheels that I should be aware of?

(2) It strikes me that cleaning the cassette now potentially requires greater care to avoid cleaning products/oil splattering onto the rear disc brake due to its proximity. Is there a technique to avoid this?
Any advice for the best way to clean the brakes that won't leave them squealing the next time I use them after washing the bike?

All sensible "do"s and "don't"s gratefully received.

1) No, but keep in mind that as you tighten your skewers/through axles, you move the frame (or fork) which both house the caliper(s) closer to the disc rotor, meaning you may upset your brakes and cause rubbing.
To avoid this, either learn to tighten your skewers 100% accurate each time or just not take the wheel off at all. - For general ease, I avoid taking the wheel off as much as I can when I have it 100% dialed in to perfection.

2) It's common sense but even if you avoid any such contamination your new disc brakes may still squeal & squeak as they bed in, so don't panic if you hear it on your new bike.

- My advice is clean your brakes by spraying brake cleaner (or some kind of alternative like industrial cleaners) onto both sides of the rotor and then gently apply your brakes while spinning the wheel, to soak the degreaser into your pads and allowing them to deposit grime & dust back onto the clean rotor, wipe vigorously and repeat the process a few times until both your pads and discs are free of the majority of brake dust and grime.

It's worth mentioning that you should never clean your brakes until you have gotten every last spec of dust off them - They need to have Brake material deposited on them in order to stop properly - It's why your new, unused rotors won't stop at all.- Using strong degreasers too much might cause you to have to bed everything in.. Again.


- If you use any type of industrial cleaner on your brakes, keep in mind that alot of it does not evaporate meaning it may cause squealing and poor braking for a few miles as it will hardly allow brake material to bite properly with the rotor. To prevent this, Ensure you thoroughly rinse your rotors with plain/soapy water if you use those kind of cleaners, and dry them after.

- Do not feel compelled to use specific brake cleaners and heavy degreasers to just clean your brakes. - Soap and Water is an effective way to clean your discs & brake pads. - Some manufacturers even recommend this; I only personally advise you to use such types of Specific products if you find your pads are contaminated with something.

 

[gacks]

All sensible "do"s and "don't"s gratefully received.

One thought to add - don't ever no never touch the brake discs with your fingers. If cold, you will transfer oils from your fingers that then contaminate the pads which will need replaced. If hot, ouch!

 

[Jody]

Put a bag over the disc when cleaning the rear wheel and don't blast cleaning product or rinse water towards the bag.

 

[Kajjal]

Put a bag over the disc when cleaning the rear wheel and don't blast cleaning product or rinse water towards the bag.

This is very good advice, any oil or grease on discs significantly reduces their performance.

If you are unlucky enough to do this clean pads and rotor with degreaser & white kitchen roll until kitchen roll stays clean. Then get up to speed and pull the brakes on hard, after a few goes they will be back to normal. If not replace pads and make sure rotor is completely clean before fitting.

 

[Velochris]

Bed them in first if you have a chance. Lots of different methods can be found on the Web.

I have just bought my first disc bike. Waited for a dry day and did 15 reps of up and down a short hill (enough to get to 20mph) and then brake (using one brake only) with as much power without locking up. 15 reps on front brake and 15 on back.

Helps do what was mentioned above.

 

[betty swollocks]

You can get disc brake rotor cleaning spray from Wilkos. Cleans up cassettes a treat too.

 

[Pale Rider]

There's a disc rotor shield available for those who want to clean their cassette and keep the cleaning gunk off the rotor.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Brake-Shield-cassette-cleaning-protector/dp/B01LXU2LWU