DIY: What is this power junction box?

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cosmicbike

Perhaps This One.....
Moderator
Location
Egham
Don't use that for testing for dead FFS.

Wrong range and it's possible there will be a black lump in what's left of your hand.


Hard to tell cable size supplying however it's rough as feck and certainly NOT compliant with regs even in 2006 . Done by a yeehah kitchen fitter that did 5 days electrical course and is now " Electrician" .

A 13A socket replacing the JUnction box ( looks like a 20A as too small for a 32A ) you will need to see what circuit protective device protects it though. Best advice is switch off at mains replace with a socket outlet and mounting box then plug new micro in .

As said DO NOT cut plug off , it won't void warranty , but it may mean you burn your house down if the new micro goes into fault.

Where is the OP located as if you are within an hour of E11 I will happily come and sort it for a beer or 2 .
Use that to test dead at my place of work and I will escort you off site. Martindale PI & Proving unit only at LV levels for us. That said, used correctly and applying 'Prove-Test-Prove' it's likely what most people use in their own home, and far better than a volt-stick. Agree with your course of action though
 

subaqua

What’s the point
Location
Leytonstone
Use that to test dead at my place of work and I will escort you off site. Martindale PI & Proving unit only at LV levels for us. That said, used correctly and applying 'Prove-Test-Prove' it's likely what most people use in their own home, and far better than a volt-stick. Agree with your course of action though

When I gave authorised persons training yesterday I said that if I saw a meter used I would use my check device ( a hammer) to check it wasn't going to work . And fingers may be used.

BTW old GS38 equipment is not now GS38 compliant . The standards changed .

Drummond are owned by martindale now . MTL20 is my preferred VI or PI on LV
 
OP
OP
Tin Pot

Tin Pot

Guru
OP
OP
Tin Pot

Tin Pot

Guru
Is the setup what caused the microwave to fail?
Doubt it, it worked for years, but could be I suppose. Don't know what's wrong with it yet.

Maybe I'm better off fixing the microwave than playing with the wiring. Might need to back it out if it starts working again :smile:
 

classic33

Leg End Member
Doubt it, it worked for years, but could be I suppose. Don't know what's wrong with it yet.

Maybe I'm better off fixing the microwave than playing with the wiring. Might need to back it out if it starts working again :smile:
Remember the anti-flood float?
 

subaqua

What’s the point
Location
Leytonstone
bin the neon from that "VDEcompliant kit" . and you only need insulated tools if working live . which you shouldnt be

and good luck with Brian Scaddans book. - his writing is awful. its also very much the theory behind the practical .

if you are not sure what you are doing with electricity dont work on it . its a sneaky little fecker and will try and kill you.

DRUMMTL20.jpg
this is a GS38 compliant Voltage indicator
 
OP
OP
Tin Pot

Tin Pot

Guru
bin the neon from that "VDEcompliant kit" . and you only need insulated tools if working live . which you shouldnt be

and good luck with Brian Scaddans book. - his writing is awful. its also very much the theory behind the practical .

if you are not sure what you are doing with electricity dont work on it . its a sneaky little fecker and will try and kill you.

View attachment 342018 this is a GS38 compliant Voltage indicator

I understand electricity pretty well, better than most I'd hazard. House wiring, not so much.

How hard can it be? ;)

You have a bunch of wiring loops running through the house all with a fuse that allows you to break the circuit or break automatically when a surge occurs which indicates something is wrong (like Dad having 20,000 volts* running through him) centralised at the "consumer unit".

Understand the wiring, and cut off all the power before you work on anything.

The trick I imagine is not getting killed by some dodgy fecker who has wired the existing stuff backwards - which some guys have said to be the case in my garage and upstairs bathroom.

*I am aware that ampage is the more deadly measure
 

cosmicbike

Perhaps This One.....
Moderator
Location
Egham
When I gave authorised persons training yesterday I said that if I saw a meter used I would use my check device ( a hammer) to check it wasn't going to work . And fingers may be used.

BTW old GS38 equipment is not now GS38 compliant . The standards changed .

Drummond are owned by martindale now . MTL20 is my preferred VI or PI on LV

Martindale VI13800 and PU for us up to 3-ph LV. Change to ALS HV for ground power and AGL, then big sticks @ 11kV, followed by Pfisterer Phase Comparators at 33kV.

And something about proving before testing which I'm sure makes sense outside of logical reality. ;)

PROVE your tester (potential indicator, PI) works on a known live source (either proving unit, PU, or another circuit which you know is live, not ideal)
TEST the circuit on which you want to work using your PI.
PROVE your PI still works by testing on PU
 

keithmac

Guru
Not nit picking but when did "amperage" become a word? I see it used all over the place now.

When we did A Level physics the tutor insisted on Current as the measure (in amps) and bollocked anybody even mumering the wors amperage..
 
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