OP
OP
Tin Pot
Guru
That brings only a selection of pluggable extensions. And one 'box' with no cable...
DIY: What is this power junction box?
- Thread starter Tin Pot
- Start date
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subaqua
What’s the point
- Location
- Leytonstone
Don't use that for testing for dead FFS.
Wrong range and it's possible there will be a black lump in what's left of your hand.
Hard to tell cable size supplying however it's rough as feck and certainly NOT compliant with regs even in 2006 . Done by a yeehah kitchen fitter that did 5 days electrical course and is now " Electrician" .
A 13A socket replacing the JUnction box ( looks like a 20A as too small for a 32A ) you will need to see what circuit protective device protects it though. Best advice is switch off at mains replace with a socket outlet and mounting box then plug new micro in .
As said DO NOT cut plug off , it won't void warranty , but it may mean you burn your house down if the new micro goes into fault.
Where is the OP located as if you are within an hour of E11 I will happily come and sort it for a beer or 2 .
Pale Rider
Legendary Member
Trailing socket.
Here's a Screwfix one, loads of others if you google as above.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/masterplu...tracking url&gclid=CLOh1f6Dz9ICFQxmGwodW_cGDQ
OP
OP
Tin Pot
Guru
Trailing socket.
Here's a Screwfix one, loads of others if you google as above.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/masterplug-heavy-duty-rewirable-13a-1-gang-single-pole-socket-white/89675?kpid=89675&cm_mmc=GoogleProduct Listing Ads
Ah I found that, but it appears to have no cable - I suppose that can be bought seperately.
I assumed it would null the warrenty because you have removed its factory intalled fuse, interesting if it doesn't.
I thought you would use the cable already there, as this just replaces the bodge box.
Last edited:
OP
OP
Tin Pot
Guru
No cutting plug off, no using the voltmeter to test for dead - understood.
As the junction box feeds other things, I thought the idea would be to remove the microwave cable and wire in a flying socket so the new micro can be plugged in.
I've got some lighting to look at as well so I may as well roll my sleeves up and figure all of this out. Read some books, buy some kit, etc. Thanks for the offer though. I've been thinking of moving from corporate cybersecurity into domestic, so the ability to install home appliances will come in useful.
How so? I thought the pic shows 600V ac and 200V ac, one click and two clicks clockwise from the off position.
What happens if you select the wrong range?
There's specific testing equipment available to test for dead to stop any mistakes like that.
keithmac
Guru
If I'm doing any electrics in the house, replacing plug sockets etc I turn the whole lot off with the main switch on the consumer unit.
Belt and braces!.
That wiring looks a bodge at best in the first post, where's the fuse for the microwave?, they normally have an internal one for last chance but you should never wire a microwave up without one.
Bodge it and scarper!.
Belt and braces!.
That wiring looks a bodge at best in the first post, where's the fuse for the microwave?, they normally have an internal one for last chance but you should never wire a microwave up without one.
Bodge it and scarper!.
Yes, but what I was responding to was the statement that it was the wrong range.
youngoldbloke
The older I get, the faster I used to be ...
As far as I know anything in a kitchen (or bathroom) is out of bounds for the unqualified. Given that, I'd tidy up that junction box, having found out what's feeding it, and what else it serves, and wire in a feed to a new socket, fused if necessary. If you are not sure what you are doing get someone who knows.
I see now.
D
Deleted member 26715
Guest
I would isolate the circuit, remove that junction box, it looks like a lighting one anyway, replace it with
MK 1-GANG SURFACE PATTRESS BOX WHITE 30MM (11340)
and
MK 13A 1-GANG DP SWITCHED PLUG SOCKET WHITE
MK 1-GANG SURFACE PATTRESS BOX WHITE 30MM (11340)
and
MK 13A 1-GANG DP SWITCHED PLUG SOCKET WHITE
subaqua
What’s the point
- Location
- Leytonstone
A multimeter is more likely to fail based on personal experience , however I only work on the stuff daily so how valid is my anecdata ?
Proving dead should be done with a potential indicator that complies with GS38 .
It's also really easy to not have it on correct range as you haven't looked properly DAMHIKT
