Drilling out the soles of SPD shoes

[Twilkes]

When you used flats did you cycle on the arch/instep area? Is that what you’re trying to replicate

(I have had to move from clipless and cycle like that now on flats as I don’t have enough flexion in my knackered knee to have pedal under the ball of foot /just behind toes. I recognise It’s a rather crap technique but needs must)

I literally just cycle with my foot a few cm forward from where other people might have it, based on perceived tradition - it doesn't feel like I'm riding on the arch, I can feel a big difference when I've tried that, feels kind of clumsy. I've read that if you have longer toes than someone else with the same size feet then your cleat position will be further back, and I have Hobbit toes so maybe that contributes to it!

I used to have a high saddle, toe pointing, pedal under the ball technique because I felt that was how I could best do the scraping back motion that everyone talked about. But when I got too many calf cramps I lowered the saddle and moved my foot forward a bit and it felt much more powerful in the top half of the stroke, and not as tiring, so that's the position ever since. So in short yes I'm trying to replicate that with clipless.

 

[ColinJ]

I don't think any of us has drilled out shoes, but I can see it being more difficult with the modern moulded soles and trying to fit the metal plate in without getting a ridge in the foot bed.

Which would literally be a right pain! I had some SPD bolts which were just a fraction too long and caused that problem. I could barely feel the ridge with my fingers but on a long hard ride my feet certainly could!

 

[ColinJ]

I literally just cycle with my foot a few cm back from where other people might have it

Shouldn't that be forward?

 

[vickster]

I literally just cycle with my foot a few cm back from where other people might have it, based on perceived tradition - it doesn't feel like I'm riding on the arch, I can feel a big difference when I've tried that, feels kind of clumsy. I've read that if you have longer toes than someone else with the same size feet then your cleat position will be further back, and I have Hobbit toes so maybe that contributes to it!

I used to have a high saddle, toe pointing, pedal under the ball technique because I felt that was how I could best do the scraping back motion that everyone talked about. But when I got too many calf cramps I lowered the saddle and moved my foot forward a bit and it felt much more powerful in the top half of the stroke, and not as tiring, so that's the position ever since. So in short yes I'm trying to replicate that with clipless.

Do you work on your calf length? Stretching ?
(speaking as someone with crazy tight calves, abnormally so, but I don't get cramp cycling, more likely to be hamstrings)

 

[ColinJ]

@Twilkes - the plates usually have 2 rows of 2 holes. I assume that you are using the rearmost row of holes so the bolts are up against the back of the slots? If you are on the front row of holes, you should be able to move the cleat back a bit by using the other row.

 

[Milkfloat]

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q9VOOs4Yg8U

 

[Milkfloat]

Some experience of it here

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S6ASGNjl0TM

 

[Twilkes]

The bolts go through the slots into a threaded metal plate inside the sole of the shoe. It may be possible to slide that back a bit but the slots would have to be lengthened, or holes drilled in exactly the right place.

Ah I hadn't really looked much inside, it looks fairly simple to remove a bit more of the material to extend the slots, but only up to the cross-ridge as that looks to be part of the strengthening of the sole. Will have a play around before I take a drill to them!

edit: that cross-ridge is actually the limit of the restraining plate now, so part of that would have to go too to move the plate further back.... will think if it's worth it.

 

[Deleted member 26715]

Not one person knew a damn thing about the train service to where I wanted to go.

But we all know more now

 

[matticus]

This reminds me of a thread I started once asking for info about getting to a particular place by train, with my bike, at a particular time.

I was inundated with responses saying that I should not get the train. I should ride there, I should drive there. That it was a stupid idea going there. That I should definitely go somewhere else. Travel at a different time.

Not one person knew a damn thing about the train service to where I wanted to go.

This shoot happens so often - on every type of social internet - that I can't believe there isn't a name for it yet.

BTW - was your journey advisable during a pandemic?

 

[Venod]

If I was to attempt the modification I would mark the slots longer on the outside then use a Dremel type tool to lengthen them, should be an easy job, the ridge inside the shoe could also be removed with a Dremel tool, but you will have to decide if it compromises the shoe stiffness, but it may not matter as your foot will be flatter on the pedal and maybe not try to flex the shoe as much.
You could shorten the inner plate to avoid touching the ridge, if there is enough left of it when you get to your desired position.

 

[T.M.H.N.E.T]

Think about cleat vs ball of foot vs pedal axle logically for a minute.

The further forward your cleat is the longer you make the effective lever of the foot, which in turn utilises the ankle joint and calves more to stabilise your foot at the bottom of the the pedal stroke. You can literally do no harm by moving cleats further towards the ankle (even within the normal adjustment range of your shoe)

 

[ColinJ]

Think about cleat vs ball of foot vs pedal axle logically for a minute.

The further forward your cleat is the longer you make the effective lever of the foot, which in turn utilises the ankle joint and calves more to stabilise your foot at the bottom of the the pedal stroke. You can literally do no harm by moving cleats further towards the ankle (even within the normal adjustment range of your shoe)

I accidentally did the opposite. Last year, I put the cleat on one of my new shoes slightly too far forwards. I set off on a ride and the pedalling action on that side felt really odd; quite uncomfortable in fact. I went to move the cleat back and rounded off the hex head of one of the bolts (screws?) so the cleat has stayed where it is. I did get used to it but can feel that it would be better to be back a few mms.

It is surprising how much difference the cleat position makes.

It's an interesting idea but I wouldn't want to try the mid-sole cleat position because I cycle up a lot of steep hills so I sometimes corner very slowly. I would definitely have a BIG problem with my shoes getting in the way of the front wheel - 'toeclip overlap'. When moving more quickly I could freewheel round tight bends.

I also use a heels-down technique when climbing on my singlespeed bike. It helps to get the cranks through the deadpoints on the pedal stroke. That technique wouldn't work properly with rearward cleats.

 

[Twilkes]

You could shorten the inner plate to avoid touching the ridge, if there is enough left of it when you get to your desired position.

I have some spare plates to try it on and would never have thought of that, thanks!

 

[DRM]

Looking at the sole of the shoe, would you be able to clip in, or would the recess get in the way of the pedal body, may be worth checking that as well.