Eurovelo 6, Serbia to the sea: route and preparations

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dimrub

Senior Member
Greetings cyclists!

I'm now starting to plan our next foray into Eurovelo 6, the one that should bring us finally to the shores of the Black Sea.

(Yes, it sounds crazy to be planning anything at this moment, yet I feel that it's actually something that keeps me sane).

I have some questions about the route, hopefully there are people with knowledge of the region that can chime in.

1. We're still obsessing about the Serbian roads. We skipped Novi Sad to Belgrade last time, but I think we would like to do this part when we come back. Seems like the hard parts are the exit from Novi Sad - about 7.5 first kilometers - and the entrance into Belgrade. We thought maybe if we leave with sunrise, we can get away from Novi Sad before the traffic, and Belgrade - well, we'll deal with Belgrade somehow. Does this sound reasonable? Are there any better ideas?

2. In terms of the route as a whole, I'm planning to continue to Stara Palanka, cross to Ram, then continue on the right bank all the way to the sea (so basically, avoiding Romania for as long as possible). From what I read, this means a more interesting route, at a cost of more climbs. Any comments on this?

3. I'm thinking of finally having a rest day en route, and ideally it would be a place not just to rest our legs, but also to explore and enjoy. Also, it would be nice if it was somewhere close to the middle of the route. I realize there aren't many cities there. I'm thinking of either Vidin or Ruse - with a preference to the latter. Any other interesting options to consider? I mean, sure, we can decide on the spot, but I'd like to plan in a way that we get to the potential rest city at the end of our riding day, if possible.

4. There are two options of finishing this route. Either continuing from Silistra due east all the way to Constanta - or making a loop by way of Tulcea, which adds something like 2 days to the route. My preference for the latter is based on Tulcea's closeness to the border with Moldova and Ukraine - it would be nice to leave our bikes and make a day trip to these two countries, but I wonder at the practicality of this. Are there any other reasons to perhaps consider this loop?

5. I see that there are wide stretches of the route that have pretty much no accommodation options. We've never done wild camping and I'm not sure we're ready to try, unless facing no alternative, but I heard that one can usually camp there on private grounds, with permission by the owner. How does one go about it? Would you just ask the first person you see peeking over the fence - or would you, perhaps, try a city park first, or some other spot? Sorry if it sounds like a silly question, I would probably figure this out on my own eventually, but I do want to know how do people approach this.

6. Just to verify: our best bet regarding the transfer at the end of the trip is to take a train from Constanta to Bucharest airport? They should allow bikes on these trains, right?

Thanks in advance for any of your thoughts!
 
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España
We thought maybe if we leave with sunrise, we can get away from Novi Sad before the traffic, and Belgrade - well, we'll deal with Belgrade somehow. Does this sound reasonable? Are there any better ideas?
While dawn sounds good different places have different cycles. There is also the factor of riding into a rising sun and potentially groggy drivers. I'm not a fan of riding into the sun.

Options to enter or leave a city:
  1. Cycle early on a Sunday or a holiday.
  2. Public transport in or out of the worst.
From what I read, this means a more interesting route, at a cost of more climbs. Any comments on this?
Which option speaks to you the most? I much prefer riding somewhere I want to be as opposed to riding somewhere to avoid being somewhere else.
I realize there aren't many cities there
A rest day doesn't have to be a city? A day in a small town can be very interesting and a great way for getting a real feel for a place. For weary cyclists, a rest day in a nice hotel with the likes of a pool, sauna, good restaurant can be very refreshing and invigorating. Especially after a night or two wild camping.

My preference for the latter is based on Tulcea's closeness to the border with Moldova and Ukraine - it would be nice to leave our bikes and make a day trip to these two countries, but I wonder at the practicality of this. Are there any other reasons to perhaps consider this loop?
Check out the practicalities. If it's possible and you want to do it, then do it? Is that not the kind of thing that could be held in reserve? If making good time it's an option. If things are tougher than expected, then by dropping it, it takes the pressure off?

I heard that one can usually camp there on private grounds, with permission by the owner. How does one go about it?
Surely, the best place to ask is the place where people are saying this?

Would you just ask the first person you see peeking over the fence - or would you, perhaps, try a city park first, or some other spot? Sorry if it sounds like a silly question, I would probably figure this out on my own eventually, but I do want to know how do people approach this.
Personally, I've only asked for permission in advance once or twice and that was in camping places set aside for campervans, not tents. (Spain)
My preference is to be discreet, scope out a place and wait for darkness to fall before pitching the tent. Asking for permission and being refused leaves a cyclist in a pickle. Of course, there are always language issues. Google Translate may help you ask the question but understanding the reply may be more difficult. My fear would be that the person I ask (and says yes) is not the owner.
Wherever possible I prefer public land as opposed to private land and places where vehicles can't go.
CGOAB and other blogs should offer clues as to where people have done this in the past. iOverlander too.

As to the concept, I was incredibly nervous before my first "wild camp". I know I set off one day to get it out of the way but I can't recall the details of it now. It's a bit like kissing - that first one might be terrifying but after that, it's easy peasy.
Be aware that it may take time to find the right place (and to scope it out in all directions). It may mean a shorter day than planned or doubling back because no place is suitable further along your route. Marking off likely spots on a map/gps as you go past is not a bad idea. Worst case, you know where you're going to as darkness falls.
However, there are two of you and silence will possibly be important. A well oiled setup will help. And eat before you camp, preferably somewhere else. In that part of the world I'd pay extra attention to dogs. And practise stealth camping toileting.

In any case, I would expect there to be accommodation options in that part of the world that don't show up on any maps. If no obvious signs, ask in the local bar/café/restaurant.

This is the kind of thing that can seem very scary sitting at home, especially if contemplating it for the first time. The reality is that it's far less scary in the real world.

They should allow bikes on these trains, right?
Surely the best place to ask is the train company or airport?
 
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dimrub

dimrub

Senior Member
While dawn sounds good different places have different cycles. There is also the factor of riding into a rising sun and potentially groggy drivers. I'm not a fan of riding into the sun.

That's a good point. The relevant sections are indeed due SE, so against the rising sun. I haven't thought of that, thanks. A weekend start is also an option, by all means.

Which option speaks to you the most? I much prefer riding somewhere I want to be as opposed to riding somewhere to avoid being somewhere else.

The public transit doesn't seem to be a workable solution in the particular case. There doesn't appear to be a sufficiently dense network in place, to just skip the troublesome sections. At this point either riding at dusk (before the rising sun is a problem) or on a weekend seem like the leading contestants.

A rest day doesn't have to be a city? A day in a small town can be very interesting and a great way for getting a real feel for a place. For weary cyclists, a rest day in a nice hotel with the likes of a pool, sauna, good restaurant can be very refreshing and invigorating. Especially after a night or two wild camping.

I'm of your mind entirely, whereas my companion is more about exploring and less about relaxing. So if I can find an option that works for both of us, I prefer those.

Check out the practicalities. If it's possible and you want to do it, then do it? Is that not the kind of thing that could be held in reserve? If making good time it's an option. If things are tougher than expected, then by dropping it, it takes the pressure off?

Yes, by all means, if we plan the longer option and then skip it (like we did in France, cutting out Mulhouse to Strassbourg), it gives us some space for maneuvering. But if there are people who've been there recently and who can provide first hand experience - so much the better.

Surely, the best place to ask is the place where people are saying this?

I don't remember where I read that, but most likely in one of the Bikeline books :smile:

As to the concept, I was incredibly nervous before my first "wild camp". I know I set off one day to get it out of the way but I can't recall the details of it now. It's a bit like kissing - that first one might be terrifying but after that, it's easy peasy.
Be aware that it may take time to find the right place (and to scope it out in all directions). It may mean a shorter day than planned or doubling back because no place is suitable further along your route. Marking off likely spots on a map/gps as you go past is not a bad idea. Worst case, you know where you're going to as darkness falls.
However, there are two of you and silence will possibly be important. A well oiled setup will help. And eat before you camp, preferably somewhere else. In that part of the world I'd pay extra attention to dogs. And practise stealth camping toileting.

Thanks, all good advice! We'll probably take a spray with us this time. So far the dogs in Hungary and Serbia were amazing and extremely friendly, not a single bark, not to mention bite, but I heard things may be different in Romania.

Surely the best place to ask is the train company or airport?
In theory, yes, but it's one of those items of information that age really quickly. The sites do say that one can take a bike on a train, but the same is true for Flexibus, and I heard first hand accounts of people not being admitted on these busses with their bikes.
 
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dimrub

dimrub

Senior Member
My Kona Sutra has arrived. Since this is the bike I'm going to ride on this route most likely (unless I don't manage to sell the conveniently located Canyon by then, and decide to take it for one last spin), I'm going to discuss its setup here.

There isn't much to discuss, really. I'm hearing @HobbesOnTour's suggestions of rebuilding the wheels to 36 spokes instead of 32 it currently has, but I don't think it's practical right now, for a variety of reasons. I'm going to take a few spokes with me as a precaution, and also try and do my best to balance the weight fore and aft, to make sure the rear wheel is not overloaded.

I'm also leaving the Mondials on for now, unless I manage to get a hold of some Marathon Plus's.

I have racks front and rear, but no front panniers. I'm happy with Ortliebs, so plan to buy their front ones - 25L total, and use my 40L rear ones, which are great. Other than that, for storage I'll use Ortlieb handlebar bag, top tube bag and small saddle bag for bike related stuff and a feed bag on the handlebar for the water bottle. I think I'll also have a waterproof backpack on top of the rear rack, if needed. This should be plenty, but maybe I'll get a smallish frame bag too - smaller than the one I have, which makes it hard to use watter bottles. Oh and 3 bottle cages.

In terms of lights, I have a great pair of lights, but need to figure out a way to connect them to the bike. The front one should probably go where the front mudguard connects to the head tube. The rear light must somehow connect

I would really like to have a mirror. I got one off Ali, but its fitting is not good, perhaps I'll try a different one. I already have a bell and a GPS unit, so that goes right on. A safety flag or two which I've already ordered, and I think that completes the bike's setup.

In terms of spares, I currently plan the following:
- A few magic links for the chain.
- A couple of cables - the brakes are cable-actuated, so no bleeding needed, woohoo, but some cables are good to have. I don't know whether the cables for gears and brakes are the same, shame on me, will need to figure this out - as well as make sure I know how to replace both (I've done this on a Brompton, but not on a drop bar bike).
- A spare inner tube
- A set of patches
- That fantastic pump I recently got
- Chain lube
- And, of course, a multi-tool, tire levers, a Leatherman, some electrician tape and zip-ties, all the regular stuff.
 
Location
España
My Kona Sutra has arrived. Since this is the bike I'm going to ride on this route most likely (unless I don't manage to sell the conveniently located Canyon by then, and decide to take it for one last spin)
My suggestion is to ride the bike as much as possible, preferably loaded as you expect to be.

I'm hearing @HobbesOnTour's suggestions of rebuilding the wheels to 36 spokes instead of 32 it currently has, but I don't think it's practical right now, for a variety of reasons. I'm going to take a few spokes with me as a precaution,
Unless you know how to replace spokes and retension them (not to mention have the tools to remove the cassette for drive side spokes) the only use those spokes will have is to be handed over to a mechanic. Investigate fibre fix spokes - they can be used on the drive side without removing the cassette. Unlike regular spokes, you won't need a spoke key to adjust them.

In any case, my strong suggestion would be to get the wheels retensioned by a reputable mechanic before you go.

For the record, I never suggested you "rebuild" the wheels. A 36 spoke wheel will require a new hub and rim. I have suggested you consider replacing at least the back wheel with a 36 spoke version. There's no reason that you can't have a "touring" wheel and a "General purpose" wheel, changing in and out according to need.

I'm also leaving the Mondials on for now, unless I manage to get a hold of some Marathon Plus's.
Whatever tyres you use, I'd suggest that you've removed and replaced them before heading out in the wild.

I have racks front and rear, but no front panniers. I'm happy with Ortliebs, so plan to buy their front ones
I'd suggest you get the bags asap to iron out any kinks and get familiar with the steering with panniers on the front. I think you're expecting heavy traffic at the start? That's probably not the time to be experimenting with front panniers.

Other than that, for storage I'll use Ortlieb handlebar bag, top tube bag and small saddle bag for bike related stuff and a feed bag on the handlebar for the water bottle. I think I'll also have a waterproof backpack on top of the rear rack, if needed. This should be plenty, but maybe I'll get a smallish frame bag too -
The more small bags on the bike the more you need to consider what is accessible to ne'er do wells in foreign parts - and those closer to home. Removing and adding those bags can get tiresome.

I would really like to have a mirror.
Lots of cheap mirrors. Most are not terribly durable and may need some bodging. Personally, I prefer the cheaper ones these days. It's a lot less stressful when they get the inevitable bang.

A safety flag or two
Safety flags can be useful, especially if used horizontally to keep traffic away but if they are reflective make sure to hide them if wild camping.

- A couple of cables -
As regards spares, not much of a point in bringing anything that you can't replace yourself or have the tools to do so. Personally, I'm not going to walk into a bike shop and hand over a cable and ask for it to be replaced.

Also, are we talking one or two bikes here? Are you considering your son's bike in all of this or just your own?

A spare inner tube
Personally, considering where you are going (and the possibility it's to cover 2 bikes) I'd pack more than one tube. How are your puncture repair skills in the wild?

That fantastic pump I recently got
I think your fantastic pump is an Ali special? I've bought one for commuting around here (4 quid!) but I wouldn't trust it on a long trip away from home.
 
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dimrub

dimrub

Senior Member
My suggestion is to ride the bike as much as possible, preferably loaded as you expect to be.

Yep, that's the plan. I'm going to commute with fully loaded bike, mass simulator, as they say in the space industry. It will be ridiculous and painful, given the harsh terrain, but I agree that it's necessary.

Unless you know how to replace spokes and retension them (not to mention have the tools to remove the cassette for drive side spokes) the only use those spokes will have is to be handed over to a mechanic. Investigate fibre fix spokes - they can be used on the drive side without removing the cassette. Unlike regular spokes, you won't need a spoke key to adjust them.

Wow, what an ingenious trick! I had no idea! I'll definitely get a couple of those. I think I still want to have a few spokes with me - for non-drive side, front wheel, and in case I roll into a shop and they're fresh out of spokes of my size.

In any case, my strong suggestion would be to get the wheels retensioned by a reputable mechanic before you go.

Yep, I'll add that to my list of things to recheck before the trip.

For the record, I never suggested you "rebuild" the wheels. A 36 spoke wheel will require a new hub and rim. I have suggested you consider replacing at least the back wheel with a 36 spoke version. There's no reason that you can't have a "touring" wheel and a "General purpose" wheel, changing in and out according to need.

But if I already have a 36-spoke wheel, why would I ever want to change back to the 32-spoke one?

Whatever tyres you use, I'd suggest that you've removed and replaced them before heading out in the wild.

If all I do is commute before the next trip, I don't think I'll ride much more than 1-1.5K - you still think it's better to have a new set? Seems like they'll be considered relatively new even after that, and the trip itself - still under 3K.

I'd suggest you get the bags asap to iron out any kinks and get familiar with the steering with panniers on the front.

Yup, I'm working on that, but there are, er, difficulties. Worst case, I'll take Daniel's front panniers for now. No Ortliebs, but they will do a fine job as a mass simulator.

I think you're expecting heavy traffic at the start?

Correct. The first 1.5 days (Novi Sad to Belgrade, then getting out of Belgrade) are expected to be traffic-heavy.

The more small bags on the bike the more you need to consider what is accessible to ne'er do wells in foreign parts - and those closer to home. Removing and adding those bags can get tiresome.

On the last couple of trips I had in my frame and top tube bag stuff that was mostly bike maintenance - so not anything valuable to me nor to a would-be theif. And they are bothersome to take off in case someone wants to detach them from the bike. All the valuables are either in panniers or in the handlebar bag - which is easily detachable, and I always take it with me. On the other hand, I think it's nice to have all this bike-related stuff in a separate bag, where it's easy to find and where it doesn't dirty my other stuff. I also felt like the last time my rear panniers were loaded to the brim - which was bad for balance, but also for waterproofing.

Safety flags can be useful, especially if used horizontally to keep traffic away but if they are reflective make sure to hide them if wild camping.

Ah yes, good point.

Also, are we talking one or two bikes here? Are you considering your son's bike in all of this or just your own?

The list was for my bike only, but of course it overlaps with his. We each carry a spare inner tube these days, but some of the things on my list are irrelevant for him and vice versa - his is a tubeless setup with hydraulic brakes.

Personally, considering where you are going (and the possibility it's to cover 2 bikes) I'd pack more than one tube. How are your puncture repair skills in the wild?

I consider myself a graduate of the school of hard tires, courtesy of Brompton - fixing a rear wheel puncture on it, in the dark, during a rain is not something I'll forget in a hurry. And yes, sure, at least 2 tubes, maybe 3. The idea is to replace and ride, not to patch - patch later, if needed.

I think your fantastic pump is an Ali special? I've bought one for commuting around here (4 quid!) but I wouldn't trust it on a long trip away from home.

It is. My experience with these things is that a lot of them are crap, but some are real quality products, similar in design and manufacturing standards to products by the expensive brands. This particular pump has already proven its worth in the last trip, and did much better than locally bought ones, from a recognizeable brand.

I was amazed to find out that there is a widely advertised camping chair that sells for $110. A fully functional, sturdy, light analog from Ali costs $20.
 
Location
España
It will be ridiculous and painful,
If I thought at the outset, that something was going to be ridiculous and painful I'm pretty much guaranteeing that it will be ridiculous and painful.
I did exactly what I've suggested to you to test myself in various conditions. I didn't think of what it was, I focused on what it was giving me.
The language we use, I believe, is very important in how we interpret and respond to the world around us.
I don't "train", for instance, I "practise". Training? Who wants to do that? But practising? That's fun!

Wow, what an ingenious trick! I had no idea!
Ingenious, maybe, a novelty it is not. They've been around a long time and have been mentioned many times around here.

I think I still want to have a few spokes with me - for non-drive side, front wheel, and in case I roll into a shop and they're fresh out of spokes of my size.
You'll need two lengths of spoke for the rear and probably a third for the front. Nipples too.

But if I already have a 36-spoke wheel, why would I ever want to change back to the 32-spoke one?
To keep the 36 spoke one for touring. The other for commuting. There's also the opportunity to familiarise ourselves with the intricacies of adjusting spokes without the danger of the wheel folding on the way to work or servicing hubs without the pressure of "needing" the wheel for work. It's also possible to entertain the idea of, for example, a hubdynamo on one or the other setups.
Admittedly on a rim brake setup (which adds to the idea of "saving" the good wheel) I did the same thing. It also meant that an early morning puncture wasn't a cause for panic. Swap the wheel over my morning coffee.

If all I do is commute before the next trip, I don't think I'll ride much more than 1-1.5K - you still think it's better to have a new set? Seems like they'll be considered relatively new even after that, and the trip itself - still under 3K.
I think you're misunderstanding. I mean to be familiar with how the tyres go on and off. It's a new rim/tyre combination. Schwalbe tyres can be difficult to master. Best to master at home, in my opinion.
The more familiar you are with your new bike - not just the tyres and wheels - the better.

I also felt like the last time my rear panniers were loaded to the brim
Fail to prepare, prepare to fail.

I'm bemused by the in-depth levels of planning and thought that goes into some aspects of a bike adventure and the total lack of attention to others, such as a shakedown ride with loaded panniers before departure.

For me, an enjoyable bike adventure forms from the smooth combination of many different aspects, in the same way that a jigsaw comes together from many different pieces.
It's better to relax, see the whole picture and start adding the pieces, bit by bit, fiddling with them, adjusting them until we see how they fit smoothly into place.
If I focus on just one piece I don't get to see the whole picture.
If I miss a piece, or pieces, I can probably still make out the final picture - but with gaps. The more I miss, the bigger the gaps in the end result.

Ironically, on a biking forum, I don't believe that the bike is the most important component of a bike tour. It's a tool. Like most tools, the more familiar I am with it and the better I understand it the more useful it will be to me. I know when it will get me out of trouble and when it won't.
The more important component, to my mind, is my "Touring Head". It deserves more attention than anything else.

Since this discussion has wandered away from the title....
My Kona Sutra has arrived. ..............I'm going to discuss its setup here.
It may be an idea to ask for the thread to be re-titled or open up a new thread specifically for it. That way you'll get more input than just mine.
 
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dimrub

dimrub

Senior Member
If I thought at the outset, that something was going to be ridiculous and painful I'm pretty much guaranteeing that it will be ridiculous and painful.

Well, I have a pretty good idea of what my commute will look like, with 4 panniers, given that it's a much harsher route that East Europe is likely to throw my way. But sure, let's call it "type 2 fun" :smile:.

I think you're misunderstanding. I mean to be familiar with how the tyres go on and off. It's a new rim/tyre combination. Schwalbe tyres can be difficult to master. Best to master at home, in my opinion.

Ah, ok, got it.

It may be an idea to ask for the thread to be re-titled or open up a new thread specifically for it. That way you'll get more input than just mine.

Good idea. I think I'll start with re-titling the thread.
 
Location
España
Well, I have a pretty good idea of what my commute will look like, with 4 panniers, given that it's a much harsher route that East Europe is likely to throw my way. But sure, let's call it "type 2 fun" :smile:.
I think you're misunderstanding my point. I can't think of a better way of explaining myself.

After this I believe you're considering a 10k km tour through various countries with lots of different challenges? Your internal monologue will be louder and more important then.

Good luck!
 
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dimrub

dimrub

Senior Member
Despite this, or any other trip being postponed indefinitely, I continue in full denial mode, as if everything is going according to plan. As Adam Savage says in the trailer for Mythbusters, "I reject your reality and substitute my own". Almost everything is ready. The bike itself is running smoothly, once I've centered the brakes. The saddle will take time to wear in, but nothing to be done about it right now, except starting to commute - I'm planning to resume commuting next week, if the security situation allows. The only things missing from the planned setup is the (optional at this point) backpack on top of the rear rack, the second bottle cage, the mirror and the saddle bag - all will be installed soon.

This is a much heavier setup than the previous one, but that was expected.
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chriswoody

Legendary Member
Location
Northern Germany
Nice to see another Kona Sutra, even if it is the touring version! I've been looking forward to seeing some photos since you mentioned you were buying one. I love my Sutra it's a lovely bike and been a wonderful bike on thousands of kilometres of adventures.

Just a thought, you mentioned earlier about possibly changing the wheels to 36 spoke ones. My Sutra has 32 spoke wheels as well and I've taken that bike everywhere with zero problems. I did rebuild the wheel not long after I purchased the bike second hand, because it had some weird issues, but since that rebuild I've covered over 7000km with no problems, over 70% of that must have been off-road as well as lots of bikepacking. So personally I've had no issues with touring/gravel riding on a 32 spoke wheel.

Good luck though with your preparations and I hope the future turns positively for you.
 
Location
España
@dimrub best of luck with the new machine!

The saddle will take time to wear in
Curious - why a new saddle?
Also, where do you plan to carry the tent?

So personally I've had no issues with touring/gravel riding on a 32 spoke wheel.
It'll be a chilly day in Hell before I'd question you, Chris but.... ^_^

This is a much heavier setup than the previous one,

Perhaps a realistic comparison of weights carried (and riders) would be useful?
There's also the fact that your wheel(s) were rebuilt. (Did you do that yourself? - sorry, more curiosity ^_^) I'm a fan of that, myself.

Given that the ultimate goal is a 10k km+ ride, my preference would be to "front-load" any anxiety so a 36 spoke wheel/s (rear, at least) would be my go-to. But that's me.
 
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dimrub

dimrub

Senior Member
@dimrub best of luck with the new machine!

Thanks!

Curious - why a new saddle?

It's a bit of a long story. The short of it - the old one is still in Belgrade, left there together with the rest of the Grail, at friend's.

Also, where do you plan to carry the tent?

The tent goes into one of the rear panniers. It worked fine with the Nordisk Oppland 3 LW I borrowed from a friend on the last trip. That tent is obscenely spacious, for a backpacking tent, but also somewhat bulkier and heavier than my much more modest Nemo Hornet 2p. So given that, and my intention to replace my sleeping bag with a much more compact one, space is not an issue.

Perhaps a realistic comparison of weights carried (and riders) would be useful?

Yes, that is the point I was going to make as well. I'm about 95kg, so perhaps there is indeed a difference in the full load. But there's still time for that - I haven't even started looking into where to source the new wheel from.
 
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España
It's a bit of a long story.
Yes, I don't think I can fully comprehend a situation quite like yours

The tent goes into one of the rear panniers.
I don't think I'll ever understand the folks who do this. ^_^ An outdoor item, often wet and damp, if not mucky, using up valuable "dry", clean space when the rack is perfectly placed to support it between two panniers.
Rack storage means that in the rain I don't need to open a pannier to get at it, and it also means that mid-day drying is much easier.

I haven't even started looking into where to source the new wheel from.
I can recommend SJS if they ship to your part of the world. Hand-built, customisable and efficient, friendly, knowledgeable and - in my case - extremely patient ^_^.
 
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