Forks out of Mtb Frame

[Summerking]

Hi
I was just wondering if I missing something here, I have been trying to free my forks from my Aluminium Mtb frame and short of applying more force to the steerer tube, should I be using a specific tool to separate it? or should blows to the top of the steerer with a rubber mallet be enough?

Didn't know if that headset cap needed removing first?
thankyou,
Summer.

 

[martint235]

No, whack it with a rubber mallet. It should loosen the spacer first but you may need to whack it until it's level with the headset

EDIT From experience make a note of how things are stacked up inside it so you can put it back together again

 

[Summerking]

No, whack it with a rubber mallet. It should loosen the spacer first but you may need to whack it until it's level with the headset

EDIT From experience make a note of how things are stacked up inside it so you can put it back together again

Thanks Martin

 

[e-rider]

the forks should now just drop out easily, if they require more than just a tap with a wooden mallet then something is wrong!

 

[Jody]

Will the spacer and headset move on top of the steerer tube? If not I reckon they have welded together (especially looking at the rust on top). I would use some WD40 if your going to clean and regrease bearings when re-assembling.

 

[raleighnut]

Will the spacer and headset move on top of the steerer tube? If not I reckon they have welded together (especially looking at the rust on top). I would use some WD40 if your going to clean and regrease bearings when re-assembling.

Do not use grease on the steerer tube Vaseline is better, oil is again as good but the best product between steerer tube and bearings is Copaslip antiseize assembly compound (it does exactly what it says on the tin). Grease is simply a lubricant and most contain SOAP in their formulation this will not prevent corrosion in fact it can accelerate it.

 

[Jody]

Surely you grease bearings? Never heard of people using Vaseline or copper slip. I wasn't on about greasing the steerer tube but the bearing races on re-assmbley if they had been contaminated with WD40.

WD40 for penetrating the spacer and allowing it to move.

 

[raleighnut]

I was not suggesting using it on the bearings in fact I would throw away the old set and fit new after going to all that trouble simply that using the right product in the right place is "good workshop practice". Sorry if you misconstrued my advice but if you had seen/read about as many stuck seatposts seized components and general problems as I have then you may understand my desire to pass on a few tips I have learnt.

 

[Globalti]

Remove the cap then pry out the split ring that is holding the steerer centred in the top bearing. Then the fork will drop out.

 

[Summerking]

I found one of these after knocking the steerer tube down mm by mm with a rubber mallet, Luckily it was a rusty suntour fork as the preload cap split in two with the transferred vibration and went separate ways across the garage floor.. I had an inkling it should have come free a lot easier but didn't know, at least I'll know for next time, thankyou everyone who offered advice.
Summer.

 

[sittingbull]

Similar problem here, I'm trying to get to the bearings to replace them:

The headset is a WTB Momentum and this is a common issue with it (so I've read).

As @Globalti says above, the solution is to remove the split pressure ring/washer. It can't be easily picked out, advice elsewhere is to hit the steerer tube down (marginally tightening the washer) then knock back from under the fork crown, lifting the split washer so it can be removed.

After several progressively harder hits with a steel hammer/block of wood there's no measurable movement but the split washer is marginally tighter as a precision screwdriver inserts fractionally less than before I started.

Any additional advice and suggestions appreciated, also regarding what weight rubber mallet would be appropriate (something I've managed without thus far) as I feel I need to target blows more precisely

 

[Globalti]

It sounds as if the split washer has become bonded to the alloy steerer. I would find a thin screwdriver and tap the bit into that little slot in the washer so as to expand it. If that doesn't free it, try actually tapping the washer around the steerer using the screwdriver, to break the bond.

 

[mickle]

the forks should now just drop out easily, if they require more than just a tap with a wooden mallet then something is wrong!

Or not. Depending on the tolerances of the components in question.

 

[mickle]

Coppaslip is a carcinogen. Avoid using it wherever possible.

 

[Cycleops]

Coppaslip is a carcinogen. Avoid using it wherever possible.

Didn't know that. Maybe use some disposable gloves?