Frame re spacing

[woodbutcher]

Just a general question about re-spacing a steel frame. Are there likely to be any problems when stretching a steel frame from 120mm to 130mm ? Ive never tried it but am interested to know if it is feasible or a definite NoNo !

 

[Drago]

Likely not to be a problem.

 

[raleighnut]

I'd be wary of stressing the brake bridge, 126 is doable from 120 but 130 might be a 'bridge too far'.

 

[woodbutcher]

Provided that you are sure it has not been done the other way already, it should be fine. How are you intending to do the bending?

I don't know how to do the bending process, my question was out of curiosity really . I have heard about it occasionally and it is an interesting idea l guess.

 

[woodbutcher]

Likely not to be a problem.

Damage to the bridge seems to be an issue as does going from 120 to 130 . I had the misconception that to make the stretch process permanent you would have to seriously over stretch the frame because it is likely to "spring back" to near its original shape ?

 

[arch684]

I don't know how to do the bending process, my question was out of curiosity really . I have heard about it occasionally and it is an interesting idea l guess.

R J the bike guy has a video on you tube how to do this, check it out

 

[woodbutcher]

R J the bike guy has a video on you tube how to do this, check it out

Thanks, will do just that

 

[Sharky]

I ran an old steel track frame with a 5 speed rear wheel with just a bit of force to open up the fork ends. Must have been 120 to 126. This worked fine, even hung a RD on and raced with it for a couple of seasons. Did try a few years later with a more modern rear wheel and it was too much to prise open the fork ends, so it went back to being a pure fixed bike.

 

[ozboz]

I was going to stretch the Fothergill frame , but was talked out of it , but, look on Sheldon Browns site , he explains it very well

 

[smokeysmoo]

I don't know how to do the bending process

When I've done it I've used the threaded bar method and I've always braced the brake bridge just in case, only done it a couple of times but never had a problem.

The benefit of the threaded bar is the level of control it gives you.

You also need to take it past the size required as well to allow for some degree of springback.

 

[Bodhbh]

I've done it a couple of times on Raleigh 20s. One time was without issue, the other I cracked the braze at the chainstay bridge - I didn't have anything at hand to brace it. I was using the Sheldon 2 by 4 method and not particularly subtle. That said the spread was from 120 to 135 and with 20" wheels R20s have a short backend - so pushing things a bit. It's not cheap to get a framebuilder to do it, so unless the frame was particularly valuble I'd be inclined to do it again.

 

[woodbutcher]

If you use the threaded bar method be sure to turn each nut the same amount. If you turn one nut too much you will spread one side more.

(I have actually seen that written down somewhere)

Makes perfect sense, even to me

 

[woodbutcher]

Likely not to be a problem.

I know that booze and cake did it recently on his Eddy Merckx frame he must have nerves of steel, l would be a total wreck if l tried it on something as pricy as that

 

[si_c]

Also beware the lower chainstay bridge, I respaced a steel Peugeot from 126 to 130mm a couple of years ago, and the right chainstay cracked and failed at the bridge after about 7000 miles.

 

[woodbutcher]

R J the bike guy has a video on you tube how to do this, check it out

Man the guy can talk....good videos though except that now l need to check frame alignment, drop out alignment etc etc !!