Genesis Flyer v Kona Band Wagon

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mcb2080

mcb2080

Senior Member
Location
East Kilbride
For sprockets you'll need a lockring tool and a chain whip tool, you can get tools with both on one tool!
Check the direction of the threads on the lockring and the sprocket before fitting/removing!

If you buy a freewheel don't get a cheap one that has to be dismantled to be removed, get one that needs a 4 prong tool to remove it. There are some decent sturmey archer ones on eBay from practical cycles, I prefer them to shimano. If you're feeling flush white industries do rebuildable ones.

Check to see what chain you're using when buying freewheels and sprockets! 1/8 is wider than 3/32. The 1/8 will run on 3/32 sprockets but the 3/32 won't run on 1/8 sprockets.

I'll try to find a few and post some links up

Thanks again mate, I am not daft........honest^_^

I just don't have a clue about single speed / fixed
 

djb1971

Legendary Member
Location
Far Far Away
According to the specs your bike is a 3/32 chain so buy 1/8 stuff unless you put a new chain on. 1/8 chains are cheaper btw when you're ready for a new one!

Lockring tools here and the dicta/shimano tool
http://velosolo.co.uk/shoptool.html

Cogs here
http://velosolo.co.uk/shoptrack.html

Screw on freewheel
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Sturm...arts_SR&var=&hash=item7918a778e2#ht_500wt_689
Notice it has n4 notches on it for easy removal

More tools
http://www.charliethebikemonger.com/cog--hub--cassette--freewheel-tools-43-c.asp
 
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mcb2080

mcb2080

Senior Member
Location
East Kilbride
According to the specs your bike is a 3/32 chain so buy 1/8 stuff unless you put a new chain on. 1/8 chains are cheaper btw when you're ready for a new one!

Lockring tools here and the dicta/shimano tool
http://velosolo.co.uk/shoptool.html

Cogs here
http://velosolo.co.uk/shoptrack.html

Screw on freewheel
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Sturm...arts_SR&var=&hash=item7918a778e2#ht_500wt_689
Notice it has n4 notches on it for easy removal

More tools
http://www.charliethebikemonger.com/cog--hub--cassette--freewheel-tools-43-c.asp

Awesome mate, fantastic post.

I am off to work soon, 12 hour night shift:cry:but at least I will have time to take a look at the tools and look at plenty of youtube videos to see how easy it is to change over:wacko:^_^

Thanks again
 
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mcb2080

mcb2080

Senior Member
Location
East Kilbride
A wee update.

I have done about 100 miles on the single speed and so far so good.

My first commute was very windy and on my climb on the way home I thought I had made a mistake with the gearing but I manned up and made it up the hill (just) gradient 9. I normally go up this in 34 x (25 - 28) depending on the gradient so 46 x 18 is an achievement for me^_^

The second day, there was no wind and I took a minute off of my pb on a 20 speed geared bike and the hill was a lot easier.

Only downside is I spin out on flats and downhills.

I have a 16t freewheel sprocket but I am going to leave that until next year once the legs are stronger.

I think fixed is out for the foreseeable future.

Anyway

I need a longer stem as I just can't get stretched out enough and I feel as if my shoulders are a wee bit hunched

So I am looking at a 120 or 130 mm silver stem, are all oversized stems the same size ie 31.9mm I think?

I am just going to buy a cheap ones ones so that I can get the correct length, then I will look at maybe a better quality one.

I don't have any one that I could swap one with just to try so I will have to buy.

Cheers
 
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mcb2080

mcb2080

Senior Member
Location
East Kilbride
Here's the thing, after measuring the reach on the genesis against my cannondale the genesis has half an inch extra on the reach yet feel shorter on the reach.

When I am on the hoods I can't see my front axle on the cannondale but on the gensis the axle is a good bit in front of the handle bars.

Is this due to the differences in geometry? Or should I have went a frame size up?

Should I be looking at a longer stem but with a higher degree ie 10 rather than 6 on the stem and flip it up the way to lift the handle bars a bit?

Here are some pics to try and show the difference between my two bikes.

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Thanks
 

djb1971

Legendary Member
Location
Far Far Away
I can't get all of your pics because I'm on the iPad with a dodgy vodafone connection but the pic of both your bikes look very different. Your bars look much higher on the cdale which will hide the hub more. You're lower on the flyer by the looks of it, your seat looks higher than the bars. The front hub is a guide for people, it isn't set in stone.

Try flipping your stem that's on the flyer and having it higher and get as close as you can to the dimensions on the cdale if that's comfy for you. Measure from the saddle etc on the cdale to the hoods and get the heights on both bikes similar. It may just need the saddle moved backwards instead of a stem. Measure how far back the saddle is from the bb on the cdale and match it on the flyer. Can you try he stem from the cdale if it's longer?
 
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mcb2080

mcb2080

Senior Member
Location
East Kilbride
Thanks djb1971 for the reply.

The stem has already been flipped on the genesis so that it is at it's highest point.

Both saddle heights are almost bang on.

The stem on the cannon is 110, the same as the genesis, from looking at the pic the cannon does seem to have a higher lift on it.

I have moved the seat back to near the max allowed on the saddle and it does make a difference with viewing the front axle but my shoulders still feel a bit squashed.

Could it have something to do with the narrow handlebars, as I was out for a long ride on friday and saturday on the dale and it was soo comfy compared to the genesis?

I was out on the Genesis today and it is just a totaly different feeling and I know have a sore neck.

I am wondering if I need a higher lift stem rather than a longer stem:laugh:

I am confused:thumbsdown:
 

djb1971

Legendary Member
Location
Far Far Away
Try to match the saddle-bar drop on the cdale with the flyer. Measure on a flat floor from the saddle top to the floor and the bar flat top to the floor. This'll be your drop.

It may be a couple of inches on one and four on the other. This could be the problem. I try to run all of my drops the same height so that I'm always comfy. You will in time get used to the larger drop if you're flexible enough!

Ensure you've not got too much weight on the bars and lift your eyes to look forward, don't keep your head lifted fully. You may just need to adapt to riding that drop more. If you're struggling get a good bike shop to help you fit the bike. Don't just buy stems etc. to make you fit it, they still may not work.
 

Old Plodder

Living at the top of a steep 2 mile climb
Try to match the saddle-bar drop on the cdale with the flyer. Measure on a flat floor from the saddle top to the floor and the bar flat top to the floor. This'll be your drop.

It may be a couple of inches on one and four on the other. This could be the problem. I try to run all of my drops the same height so that I'm always comfy. You will in time get used to the larger drop if you're flexible enough!

Ensure you've not got too much weight on the bars and lift your eyes to look forward, don't keep your head lifted fully. You may just need to adapt to riding that drop more. If you're struggling get a good bike shop to help you fit the bike. Don't just buy stems etc. to make you fit it, they still may not work.

Good advice; & you can triangulate, measure from bottom bracket axle to saddle & bottom bracket to bars/stem, plus from seat post to bars/stem. Try to get them the same to maintain your comfortable position.
(In your photo, it looks like the (effective) top tubes are different lengths.)
 
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mcb2080

mcb2080

Senior Member
Location
East Kilbride
Cheers guys for the replies.

I will get the measurements up tomorrow, long day at work :wacko:

I take it the only way I can raise the handle bar height is to get a stem with a high degree, I have seen 6 and 10 degrees are there any higher than this or is that all I have to play with?

I take it I will need at least a 10 degree flip as there is probably a couple of inches betwen saddle height and handlebar height.

Thanks again
 
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mcb2080

mcb2080

Senior Member
Location
East Kilbride
Right guys, here is my measurements:biggrin:
...........................................................Synapse......................... Genesis
Floor - Handle Bar............................ 38 inch............................ 35.5 inch
Floor - Saddle................................... 37 inch............................ 37.5 inch
Floor - Head Set Screw.....................36 inch.............................35 inch
Front Saddle - Front Handlebar........ 20 inch............................ 22 inch
BB - Top of Handle Bar.................... 32 inch............................. 31 inch
BB - Saddle Rail at Clamp................25.25 inch.........................26 inch

Handle Bar Hood to Hood..................44cm................................45.5cm

I thought my Genesis handle bars where a lot narrower but there isn't much in it.
 
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mcb2080

mcb2080

Senior Member
Location
East Kilbride
I have moved my Genesis saddle down half an inch and moved it forward to try and keep it in line with my Cannondale.

So I take it the stem is the key here, I need something that is going to have to lift the handle bars roughly 2.5 inches but keep the same reach to what I have the now?

I take it to work out a stem flip degree, you look at the big number advertised and take it away from 90 and that is the flip degree?

Cheers
 

djb1971

Legendary Member
Location
Far Far Away
You've got more of a drop on the flyer. It's not a massive amount, I'd suck it and see if you get used to it. My drop is over 4inches, it's what you get used to and feel comfy with.

Ensure that your saddle is at the correct height! Measure from either the centre of the bb or the pedal axle to the top of the saddle, not the rails. Saddles are different sizes.

Get your saddle height correct, measure your inseam correctly. Just google saddle height and there are places that show you how to use the 109% inseam and variants. Put your shoes on and sit on the bike, drop a line down from the knee cap and it should fall over the pedal axle when horizontal, again google will show you how. This has got to be correct. Once you've got the saddle measurement on one bike, match it on the other from the pedal axle to the top of saddle. Once these are right sit on the bike and hold the hoods in your normal riding position, you should have a slight bend in your elbow and no hunch in your back/shoulders. You can then match both bikes from this. If your knees hurt at the front saddle up, hurt on the back of the knee saddle down by about 3mm. Get these right before messing around.

If you're unsure go to your lbs, they will help. They will see how you fit on and ride the bike. It's easy to see faults with fitting when you can see the pedals turning.
 
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