Get Off My Wave

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Fab Foodie

hanging-on in quiet desperation ...
Location
Kirton, Devon.
I don't think there is an age limit to surfing.

You need a heap of fitness to punch out in the first place, but there are ways around that (if you know someone with a jetski).

Surfing is basically hours and hours of effort to get maybe five seconds of oneness with the sea.

But those five seconds of oneness stay with you forever.

Cycling is the same. All of those hours spent mending your bike, and then all of the effort to get to the top of the hill.

But the downhill speedfest makes it all worthwhile.
Totally agree. My kids a
had a day at Surf school in Wales a couple years back and I had a go before they finished, feck it was hard work...as a kid I'd surf all day long!
 

Fab Foodie

hanging-on in quiet desperation ...
Location
Kirton, Devon.
Happy daze....

570132


570133


:eek:
 
OP
OP
Lovacott

Lovacott

Über Member
I used to regularly surf Croyde bay, Puttsborough, Saunton, Fistral Constantine/Boobys, Harlyn and Gwenver mid 70s into early 80s, places like Croyde or Putts (at high tide) where the take-off zone was quite narrow could get punchy even then on a good day.
My first time out at Croyde was in 1981 and it was 6am and calm just before high tide and just after a storm the day before.

I had no idea how the bay worked and just followed the two locals who walked past my van (I had been waiting for over an hour for someone else to go in before me).

They guided me, told me what to leave and what to chase.

Amazing experience.

I still work with one of them today.
 

Chap sur le velo

Über Member
Location
@acknee
Have you tried body surfing?

To chime with the original posters thoughts. You can't possibly try bodysurfing without one of these...


View: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Slyde-Handboards-Shorebreak-Specialty-Attachment/dp/B01999U3FE/ref=pd_sbs_1?pd_rd_w=RgV3b&pf_rd_p=c1b0d6b0-0f46-4d06-b951-a1c184c4ce91&pf_rd_r=CMTVFRZT8XEB2DHG8TBV&pd_rd_r=1d7846e1-3f1c-4d3a-961e-01b4d170054d&pd_rd_wg=9sKLo&pd_rd_i=B0743FZ5XN&psc=1


My wetsuit and bodyboard are 25+ years old. My only regret is I haven't had the chance to wear them out!

Cornwall this October! Yipee.
 
Found myself in the overlap zone of the venn diagram of these issues a while back. Was battling as dusk fell, one wet September evening from Braunton to Woolacombe. The traffic was bloody awful till I got off the coast road, but then the hills were long and cheerless. Somewhat knackered I rolled into Croyde and set off along the NCN coastal route, which starts as a poorly metalled single carriageway, then degenerates into a muddy narrow path along the cliffs. My recumbent is not much good at singletracking, so I mostly pushed, but I was thinking, at least I can relax, no bloody traffic, just me, the mud and the rain. Until I got above Putsborough. Without warning, a guy in a wetsuit burst out of the bushes, pushing an mtb with a surfboard strapped to it! I’d hit the evening surfer rush-hour 😬. I was mightily relieved to finally hit the awful squirrelly surface of Marine Parade, and raise Morte Point on the port bow . . .
 
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