Hand Ache...

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Boon 51

Veteran
Location
Deal. Kent.
I have just done my first 40km mtb ride (off road) and all went well except the palm of my hands hurt as I was putting a bit too much weight on them..
How do I cure this please..

Cheers
 

lulubel

Über Member
Location
Malaga, Spain
Put less weight on them.

"Heavy feet, light hands."
 

Kies

Guest
Try putting one hand behind your back (when safe to do so) and open/close it for 20 seconds. Then do the other.
As you say,your putting too much weight forward,which will press on your ulnar nerve and give you numbness and pain.
Think about addingsome bar ends to the mtb,so your hand position changes.
I should get better with more miles and fitness
 

lulubel

Über Member
Location
Malaga, Spain
Also, I'm not sure what grips you've got on your bike. Mine came with Cube's own ergo grips, and they're super comfy. My OH's came with round grips, so she swapped them for Ergon GP1 after a couple of rides, and said that made a lot of difference to her hand comfort.

(I've never had any real issues with hand comfort, though, even when I was using the hard, plastic grips on my cheapie MTB.)
 
OP
OP
Boon 51

Boon 51

Veteran
Location
Deal. Kent.
Try putting one hand behind your back (when safe to do so) and open/close it for 20 seconds. Then do the other.
As you say,your putting too much weight forward,which will press on your ulnar nerve and give you numbness and pain.
Think about addingsome bar ends to the mtb,so your hand position changes.
I should get better with more miles and fitness

Bar ends had crossed my mind as a lot of guys over here seem to have them.. and I will be at evanscycles not this week end but next so I could buy then..
 
OP
OP
Boon 51

Boon 51

Veteran
Location
Deal. Kent.
Also, I'm not sure what grips you've got on your bike. Mine came with Cube's own ergo grips, and they're super comfy. My OH's came with round grips, so she swapped them for Ergon GP1 after a couple of rides, and said that made a lot of difference to her hand comfort.

(I've never had any real issues with hand comfort, though, even when I was using the hard, plastic grips on my cheapie MTB.)

Again.. this could be a good option and the Ergon do have good reviews.. but the grips that are on my bike seem a bit spikey.
 
I'll second the Ergon Grips GP1 - used them on all my mtb's and my tourer (I have a bad left wrist which needs protecting after 11 ops on it).
I have also found the SJS Ergo Control Bar ends much more useful than other bar ends because the allow for a little extra hand position changes... the two combined give something like 4 or 5 different positions to hold the bars which helps me considerably. We had not come across those bar ends until we did the 12 month tour and now love them despite their price, and they have lasted really well.
 
Mountain bike bars (and by extension -'Hybrid' bars) have a 'sweep' (the backward angle of the grip section)of 6 degrees or less which encourages the use of the 'attack position' - a riding position which is characterised by an elbows out riding style. It allows for flex in the arms to absorb bumps and woops in the trail and is useful when there's a requirement to move around the bike - shifting the body's CofG forwards for uphills and off the back of the saddle for steep downs. Whether 'flat' or riser, what a mountain bike bar finds difficult to deliver is comfort. For comfort you require a bar with a much greater backsweep of the type which some - particularly Euro style - city bikes come equipped with. But a high back-sweep bar doesn't allow for much position shifting, 'body English' as the Amercans call it, and they limit how far you can turn the bars before they clash with your knees. Flat bars cannot be comfy if used with straight arms (and a too long cockpit can also cause wrist probs in a rider forced to adopt straight arms just to reach the bars). And often, even fresh from the shop, bikes come set up with the bar's sweep poorly aligned, forcing the wrists into an even less natural angle. The sweep should line up with the forearms. Watch out too for brake levers which are too high, they should be angled somwhere close to 45 degrees from horizontal. You want close to a straight line through the sweep, the wrist and the lower arm.

More and more mountain bikers, particularly the long distance off-road touring chaps are using bars with a lot more sweep.

I might start a campaign against bars with inadequate sweep.
 
As said by others here - buy bar extensions to allow more than one hand position - or occassionally shift your weight on the saddle therefore eliviating the pressure on your hands.

Used to have the same problem when riding my hybrid long distances (i.e. 30-40 miles - discomfort would set in around the 15 mile mark). Never did manage to totally overcome it - just minimise it. It's never been a problem on the road bike.
 
As said by others here - buy bar extensions to allow more than one hand position - or occassionally shift your weight on the saddle therefore eliviating the pressure on your hands.

Used to have the same problem when riding my hybrid long distances (i.e. 30-40 miles - discomfort would set in around the 15 mile mark). Never did manage to totally overcome it - just minimise it. It's never been a problem on the road bike.
Like I said...
 

lulubel

Über Member
Location
Malaga, Spain
Mountain bike bars (and by extension -'Hybrid' bars) have a 'sweep' (the backward angle of the grip section)of 6 degrees or less which encourages the use of the 'attack position' - a riding position which is characterised by an elbows out riding style. It allows for flex in the arms to absorb bumps and woops in the trail and is useful when there's a requirement to move around the bike - shifting the body's CofG forwards for uphills and off the back of the saddle for steep downs. Whether 'flat' or riser, what a mountain bike bar finds difficult to deliver is comfort. For comfort you require a bar with a much greater backsweep of the type which some - particularly Euro style - city bikes come equipped with. But a high back-sweep bar doesn't allow for much position shifting, 'body English' as the Amercans call it, and they limit how far you can turn the bars before they clash with your knees. Flat bars cannot be comfy if used with straight arms (and a too long cockpit can also cause wrist probs in a rider forced to adopt straight arms just to reach the bars). And often, even fresh from the shop, bikes come set up with the bar's sweep poorly aligned, forcing the wrists into an even less natural angle.

From my experience, the parts I've bolded are particularly relevant.

As anyone who has ever read my "new bike" posts will know, I like a short cockpit. For that reason, both my old and current MTBs are tiny. The bars on the new one definitely have the 6 degrees or less of sweep that you described, whereas the old one has a lot more sweep. The old one was fine for just cruising along on the road, but as soon as I wanted to get my upper body lower and my elbows out, the bars started putting pressure on the outer edge of my hands. With my short cockpit, I find bars with less sweep more comfortable, but I can see how the opposite would be true if I was riding a bike with a longer cockpit.
 
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