Headset problems?

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Goggs

Guru
Hi folks. I was out on the bike this evening and finally decided to try climbing a hill I've been putting off since we moved here. I managed 2/3 of the way to the top but finally gave in. It wasn't so much that I was tired as much as it was the heat. The sweat was actually beginning to blind me, lol. So I got off & started walking. It was then that I noticed an ever so slight clunkiness when applying the front brake.

I had the right tools with me so I loosened off the Aheadset & stem and readjusted it, to no avail. Still clunky. So I cycked gently home and got onto YouTube to see if there was something I was missing out. I started again and followed this video..


View: https://youtu.be/W2RHkdRePa8


I still get the clunkiness in the straight ahead position but when I turn the handlebars 90 degrees it disappears which, according to the above video, would seem to point to the brakes. Is this likely? They are Shimano disc brakes & the bike is only a week old. Perhaps that's the problem. Maybe it needs it's first service.

Do you think I should maybe take it to the local shop to let them have a look? It's not like the Aheadset system is rocket science, in fact I think that's the point of it over the old fashioned locknut system. I just don't want to bugger anything up.

Thanks in advance for any help or advice.
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
Bearings could be shot. Is it notchy around the straight ahead position - if so, bearings. Double check by removing the stem and dropping to forks out - or take to bike shop if not sure.
 
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fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
If you slacken the top cap, then the stem, bounce the front wheel. Then slightly tighten the top cap 1/4 turn, bounce the front wheel. If it clunks, tighten the top cap a little more and repeat. Stop just as the clunk stops. Make sure front hub is tight and no play in bearings- grab the rim and wobble side to side.
 

Levo-Lon

Guru
Remove the top cap and check theres a gap between the steerer and the cap?
if not add a spacer above the stem and refit the top cap, adjust to correct tension
 
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Goggs

Guru
Did you do the drop bit after loosening the clamp and nut. It should clunk when you do. Btw, that's a good vid

Yup, I dropped it as the video says.

Clunk should not be brakes, applies to calliper brakes only really

The bike in the video seems to have discs.

If you slacken the top cap, then the stem, bounce the front wheel. Then slightly tighten the top cap 1/4 turn, bounce the front wheel. If it clunks, tighten the top cap a little more and repeat. Stop just as the clunk stops. Make sure front hub is tight and no play in bearings- grab the rim and wobble side to side.

OK, I've just went through it as you advise with the same result.

Full disclosure. Although I've only owned the bike for one week I have made one change already; the stem. But I followed this same video when I changed it so it should be fine.

I wish I could take it back to the shop but it was mail order from Germany so that's not happening. There's a local bike shop so I think I'll pay them a visit tomorrow.
 
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Goggs

Guru
Remove the top cap and check theres a gap between the steerer and the cap?
if not add a spacer above the stem and refit the top cap, adjust to correct tension

Yes, there's a gap. The replacement stem is the same height as the original so it should be good. Certainly no need for any additional spacers.
 

Levo-Lon

Guru
Well if thats the case and a gap is present id pop the fork out and check all the parts are correctly fitted..

tho its a new bike so you should return to the shop , im just impatient so id take it apart.
i dont have any faith in so called bike mechanics..tho thats just my experience
 
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Goggs

Guru
I've just been out & went through the whole process again but with much the same results. One thing I notice is that when I clamp the brake gently there's no noise but when I clamp it hard the clunk returns.
 
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Goggs

Guru
It turns out the local shop is closed tomorrow (of course) so what would I be looking for if I was to strip it down tomorrow? How would I know the bearings are shot?
 
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