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Yes indeed.

I have decided to take the plunge and try to fix up an old mountain bike. I have very good intentions. I have lubricant. I have tools. :eek: I have no idea.

I have 2 loved bicycles which I get serviced regularly and I have Trek 800 sport mountain bike that's been hanging out forlornly. Its old. Its heavy. It's cheap. The seat post has seized. But, I have memories of it. And
it's kinda classic, I like old things. I hate wasting stuff that can still be used in some way.

I have intended to be better at bike maintenance. So, I guess it will be a good test and hopefully I will be able to ride it. Plus, I needed to do it really cheaply. I'm thinking ebay.

I thought I would start easy. Tyres.

so original wheels were 26 x 2.00. I get the 26" bit but I don't quite get the width bit. Can they be smaller or wider then 2.00? What's best and how do I know? See, this is the easy bit. It's going to get real fun.

thank you!
:biggrin:
 

Pat "5mph"

A kilogrammicaly challenged woman
Moderator
Location
Glasgow
:welcome:
Your tyres can be smaller in width - not too much, or it looks wrong :smile: say, 1.50 or 1.75.
They can also be a bit bigger subject to clearance: if they would fit without rubbing on the frame, say, 2.10.
To consider mudguards also: if you have them, a bigger tyre might rub.
Some tyres state a size, then when you get them they are actually a bit bigger.
Last thing to consider is the rim, there is a chart that tells you the values you can go on your rims, sadly I can't remember the link ^_^ but on an old MB you should be fine from 1.75 to 2.10 subject to clearance.
 

si_c

Guru
Location
Wirral
I've got an old Trek 800 kicking around at my Dads house, good solid steel frame bike, and the components were serviceable if a bit unfashionable when compared with modern kit.

I'd definitely change the tires, if you're not planning on doing mountain biking then a set of slicks - say 26x1.75 or 559-44c (both the same size, just different ways of writing it) will work nicely and be comfortable on all roads and cycle paths, and sufficient for bridle ways and light trails.

Next I'd suggest changing the brake blocks - something like Koolstop dual compound MTB blocks will make a difference.

I'd also consider changing the grips, modern grips are much more comfortable, and if you fancy the challenge, you could always change the brake and gear cables too - if it's been sitting around in damp conditions they may have started to deteriorate.

Other than that not much will need to be done, just take it out for a ride.
 

Salar

A fish out of water
Location
Gorllewin Cymru
As all have said above.

If you do change the gear cables, be careful that you don't mess up the indexing, i.e gear changing. Google, youtube and obviously here is your friend. :smile:
 
I would put it differently: If you do change the gear cables, you will inevitably mess up the indexing, i.e gear changing.
Oh yes...
 

Nigeyy

Legendary Member
I'll put in a suggestion that is really easy and non-mechanicky: when you do replace the tyres, don't forget to clean the rims (kitchen pad with soapy water usually works well) as well as the brake pads themselves. It can sometimes make a big difference to braking.

And tyres: the rim width can be an issue for tyre width, but I think I have Mavic 238s (really old rims) or Sun CR17s with 26x1.25 tyres with no problems (but I wouldn't go narrower but then again, I've not seen tyres narrower than 26x1.25 anyway). Similarly while I haven't read any hard facts to say you can't put 26x2.4+ tyres on really narrow rims I wouldn't for fear of the tyre rolling over on a corner (and of course subject to clearance). The bad news is that I've never really come across a hard and fast rim width to tyre width saftey ratio, so if the rim is close to the width of a tyre I won't do it, and if a rim is very much smaller than the width of the tyre I won't do it. Yeah, I know that's vague!

I would think anywhere from 26x1.5 -26x2.1 (subject to clearance) would be fine. Generally if you are riding mostly on smooth trail/road stuff, you probably wouldn't want more than 26x2.0 for rolling resistance anyway, and similarly if you are going *really* off road you wouldn't want much less than 26x2.0s as well.
 
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Nigeyy

Legendary Member
+ for Koolstops (and changing brake cables if necessary and cleaning rims!)

I've got an old Trek 800 kicking around at my Dads house, good solid steel frame bike, and the components were serviceable if a bit unfashionable when compared with modern kit.

I'd definitely change the tires, if you're not planning on doing mountain biking then a set of slicks - say 26x1.75 or 559-44c (both the same size, just different ways of writing it) will work nicely and be comfortable on all roads and cycle paths, and sufficient for bridle ways and light trails.

Next I'd suggest changing the brake blocks - something like Koolstop dual compound MTB blocks will make a difference.

I'd also consider changing the grips, modern grips are much more comfortable, and if you fancy the challenge, you could always change the brake and gear cables too - if it's been sitting around in damp conditions they may have started to deteriorate.

Other than that not much will need to be done, just take it out for a ride.
 
Location
Cheshire
I've got an old Trek 800 kicking around at my Dads house, good solid steel frame bike, and the components were serviceable if a bit unfashionable when compared with modern kit.

I'd definitely change the tires, if you're not planning on doing mountain biking then a set of slicks - say 26x1.75 or 559-44c (both the same size, just different ways of writing it) will work nicely and be comfortable on all roads and cycle paths, and sufficient for bridle ways and light trails.

Next I'd suggest changing the brake blocks - something like Koolstop dual compound MTB blocks will make a difference.

I'd also consider changing the grips, modern grips are much more comfortable, and if you fancy the challenge, you could always change the brake and gear cables too - if it's been sitting around in damp conditions they may have started to deteriorate.

Other than that not much will need to be done, just take it out for a ride.

I have similar era Cannondale and swapped out shimano centre pulls for Avids...quite cheap and much better braking...dead easy to fit, honest.
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
The bad news is that I've never really come across a hard and fast rim width to tyre width saftey ratio, so if the rim is close to the width of a tyre I won't do it, and if a rim is very much smaller than the width of the tyre I won't do it. Yeah, I know that's vague!
@Nigeyy is the bringer of fake 'bad news'. @Dogtrousers has offered the Sheldon page (scroll almost to the end for the 'width' stuff). As well as the chart, pertinent quote is:
"A general guideline is that the tire width should be between 1.45/2.0 x the inner rim width."
Schwalbe has this: https://www.schwalbe.com/en-GB/reifenmasse.html
Personally I'd stick to 2" tyres on a 'mountain bike' with slicks if it'll be staying on hard surfaces (ie not going over terrain where tread would enhance grip). And the current rim will be fine from 1.5" to 2.25". The upper limit will likely be dictated by clearance (as others have said).
 
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