How do I know when pads are worn out?

[Debian]

As per heading.

I've only recently acquired a bike with discs. Without dismantling them how do I know if the pads need changing? I don't want to find myself out on a long ride and half way through it my pads give up.

Carrying a spare set just in case isn't really an option as I don't relish trying to change pads on a mud encrusted caliper mid-trail.

 

[GrumpyGregry]

how you tell varies from manufacturer to manufacturer and from brake to brake. The maker's website will usually have a document somewhere like this which explains how you measure wear. e.g. Avid brake pads should be replaced when the total thickness of the backing plate and pad friction material is less than 3mm.

But you check 'em before you go on the long ride and avoid the problem I guess.

I always carry a spare set, just in case, though I've only changed them on trail once when on hols in the Alps because the old pads, whilst within wear tolerance, were making a horrible noise which got right on my wick.

 

[Cubist]

As per heading.

I've only recently acquired a bike with discs. Without dismantling them how do I know if the pads need changing? I don't want to find myself out on a long ride and half way through it my pads give up.

Carrying a spare set just in case isn't really an option as I don't relish trying to change pads on a mud encrusted caliper mid-trail.

Check them in the workshop/garage/kitchen/lounge before you ride. It takes a couple of minutes to take the wheel off and look at the pads to check for wear. Every week or so you need to take the pads out of the calipers and check to see that they still have plenty of meat on them. They reckon 1mm of material as a minimum.

Don't be scared of them, they are far easier to maintain and change than rimbrake pads. I reckon I could change front and rear of my Hayes Strokers in about 20 minutes, and that would include cleaning the calipers and rotors, and centring them afterwards. .

 

[CyenceSycle]

I just wait till they stop working! Seriously.

You can tell when they're about to go because you have to pull further on the lever and they quite rapidly deteriorate from there. I'm hardly ever more than 10 miles from my house or a bike shop and they're really easy to change so I wouldn't worry about it too much.

PS I only ever deal with mechanical brakes, wouldn't know if that is the case on hydraulics

 

[GrumpyGregry]

Try finding out at Les Gets or Leogang or on 'severed dick' and do let me know the outcome

 

[MacB]

Don't be scared of them, they are far easier to maintain and change than rimbrake pads. I reckon I could change front and rear of my Hayes Strokers in about 20 minutes, and that would include cleaning the calipers and rotors, and centring them afterwards. .

I find v-brake pads with v's or cantis pretty easy to change

 

[Debian]

Thanks for the replies everyone.

I've never had to deal with hydraulic discs before and I've read many horror stories of people taking hours to replace a set of pads. OTOH others have written that it's pretty easy, I guess I won't know till I try so I'd better pick up a set this weekend and then have a look at my existing ones.

I've never had a problem with V brakes either, I can change those and set them up in a few minutes. I've always found V-brakes perfectly OK for the sort of riding I do (mainly XC), the only thing I dislike about them is the godawful noise they make when they get wet and muddy!

Any tips or tricks about changing Avid Juicy pads? I've read the theory and it sounds like they should be changeable in a couple of minutes but I bet that's not the way it'll work out for me.

 

[summerdays]

Don't let your child help you when you are doing it... mine pulled the brakes on whilst the wheel was out.

 

[Steve Austin]

Avid Juicy pads a right pain to change. Wait till they wear out completely would be my advice, the pad is only wafer thin, so you can't really tell when they are about to wear out.

To change them. You need to push the pistons back in, if you don't you won't get the new pads in. I use a large flat bladed screwdriver. insert screwdriver in between old pads, and slowly twist it until the pistons are fully back in. pop old pads out, insert new pads.
There I made it sound easy! its not

You shouldn't need to bleed

 

[Cubist]

I find v-brake pads with v's or cantis pretty easy to change

Bravo!

 

[Debian]

Avid Juicy pads a right pain to change. Wait till they wear out completely would be my advice, the pad is only wafer thin, so you can't really tell when they are about to wear out.

To change them. You need to push the pistons back in, if you don't you won't get the new pads in. I use a large flat bladed screwdriver. insert screwdriver in between old pads, and slowly twist it until the pistons are fully back in. pop old pads out, insert new pads.
There I made it sound easy! its not

You shouldn't need to bleed

This is what I've heard and it's why I'm dreading having to change them.

 

[Cubist]

Avid Juicy pads a right pain to change. Wait till they wear out completely would be my advice, the pad is only wafer thin, so you can't really tell when they are about to wear out.

To change them. You need to push the pistons back in, if you don't you won't get the new pads in. I use a large flat bladed screwdriver. insert screwdriver in between old pads, and slowly twist it until the pistons are fully back in. pop old pads out, insert new pads.
There I made it sound easy! its not

You shouldn't need to bleed

What make s Avids so hard to change? The Hayes are a piece of the proverbial on my Cube, but will eventually have to change the Elixirs on the Boardman, what have I got in store? The Hayes sequence is:
Remove wheel, using flat bladed screwdriver or other proprietory wedge force old pads as far open as possible, undo small allen bolt, use it to push old pads out, quick squirt of brake cleaner on caliper body, wipe with rag, place new pads into caliper body, replace allen bolt, brake cleaner on old rotor, thorough wipe, replace wheel, centre brakes, choose steep hill to bed pads in, recentre, get on with life. About ten minutes all in at last count.

 

[Debian]

What make s Avids so hard to change? The Hayes are a piece of the proverbial on my Cube, but will eventually have to change the Elixirs on the Boardman, what have I got in store? The Hayes

This what I'd like to know.

I read so many times that Avid pads are the devils work to change but I'm not sure why.

Can any Juicy user enlighten me?

Anyone have an idiots guide to changing them?

 

[summerdays]

For Mr Summerdays (see I didn't even do it myself), it was that little bit of metal hinge that the pads sit in - trying to get the pads into it then onto the bike seems to result in a bit of swearing...

 

[Steve Austin]

There is no idiots guide. They are a pain to change.

As i said, just try to make sure you have pushed the pistons back in, before you try to insert the new pads. I use a large flat bladed screwdriver to wiggle in between the old pads, then insert a 5mm piece of petal in between them, to slowly lever them apart as far as i think they can go, then, remove the old pads, and try to insert the new ones.

I know people who have worked on bikes for years and this is their least favourite job. I regard building wheels, setting mechs, bleedings brakes, stripping forks as easier