GrumpyGregry
Here for rides.
They do say that. But I've not noticed a lack of smooth and any particular noise thus far. I accept smaller probably means more chain/cog/chainring wear though. Small price to pay. In my2597993 said:
How do you choose the right gearing for your fixed?
- Thread starter edindave
- Start date
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Deleted member 1258
Guest
2597126 said:
Same make of tyre just different width
http://www.allterraincycles.co.uk/.Bontrager-Race-Lite-Hardcase-Road-Tyre_119612.htm
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Deleted member 1258
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Boris Bajic
Guest
It is a compromise.
Most seem to be between 65" and 69".
I've variously run 65" up to 72" on my fixed steel Claud Butler. All have been perfect on one stretch of tarmac and laughably wrong on another.
I've always found hills for which I'm geared too high and descents for which I'm geared too low. But it's always fun finding out.
I once saw a documentary programme about a burglar who not only tested to destruction the furniture in the house she entered, but ate all the porridge too.
Although from a moral standpoint her behaviour was dispicable, we can all learn from her when it comes to setting gear for a fixie.
Many of us will try all three before deciding that Baby Bear's porridge is just right.
Most seem to be between 65" and 69".
I've variously run 65" up to 72" on my fixed steel Claud Butler. All have been perfect on one stretch of tarmac and laughably wrong on another.
I've always found hills for which I'm geared too high and descents for which I'm geared too low. But it's always fun finding out.
I once saw a documentary programme about a burglar who not only tested to destruction the furniture in the house she entered, but ate all the porridge too.
Although from a moral standpoint her behaviour was dispicable, we can all learn from her when it comes to setting gear for a fixie.
Many of us will try all three before deciding that Baby Bear's porridge is just right.
jazzkat
Fixed wheel fanatic.
- Location
- The Cumbrian Riviera
Wot he said ^
I upped my gearing by one tooth at the back to make 70inches, so I could go a bit faster on the flat. I'm still spinning like a washing machine at 22/23mph but if I went any higher gearing wise I'd not get up some of the hills around here. Going downhill is a bit of a moot point to me as most downhills are pretty steep here and so I'm on the brakes most of the time so I don't end up going too fast
I might try going up another tooth as I get a bit stronger, but there will come a point where my knees will say enough's enough and 22/23 is pretty respectable I suppose!
I upped my gearing by one tooth at the back to make 70inches, so I could go a bit faster on the flat. I'm still spinning like a washing machine at 22/23mph but if I went any higher gearing wise I'd not get up some of the hills around here. Going downhill is a bit of a moot point to me as most downhills are pretty steep here and so I'm on the brakes most of the time so I don't end up going too fast
I might try going up another tooth as I get a bit stronger, but there will come a point where my knees will say enough's enough and 22/23 is pretty respectable I suppose!
Alien8
Senior Moment
- Location
- (A little bit north of) Cambridge
GrumpyGregry
Here for rides.
But you aren't shallow.2599126 said:53x19
ayceejay
Guru
- Location
- Rural Quebec
When riding fixed the usual length for crank arms is 165 to avoid toes overlapping front wheel and hitting the ground when cornering. Since changing a sprocket is way easier than changing a chain ring I would say stick with either 48 or 46 and play around with cogs. If you have ridden a geared bike on the same route and there is one combination in there where you feel most comfortable use the chart above to find out its gear inches and emulate this on your fixed.
GrumpyGregry
Here for rides.
Surely toeverlap is more a factor of geometry than crank length? I've always thought short cranks were there to ease the problem of pedal strike.
Rohloff_Brompton_Rider
Formerly just_fixed
Me too, but also to allow faster spinning down hills.
GrumpyGregry
Here for rides.
Explain the maths of that to me please. The number of rpm is the same regardless of crank length for a given speed no? Sure my feet might have less distance to travel as the diameter of the circle is less on 165's but would it make a meaningful difference?
Maybe it is only me but footspeed has never been the limiting factor.
Rohloff_Brompton_Rider
Formerly just_fixed
Less distance travelled equals more spin.
Rohloff_Brompton_Rider
Formerly just_fixed
Take it to the extremes, could you spin as fast with 200mm cranks as you could on 150 cranks?
ayceejay
Guru
- Location
- Rural Quebec
I think I am probably being old fashioned in thinking that fixed wheel = track geometry closer clearances and shorter wheelbase.
The only problem I ever had was striking a curb which wasn't fun.
The only problem I ever had was striking a curb which wasn't fun.
My choice is decided simply by the terrain I ride in.
My bike came equipped with a 48t chainring and an 18/20 flip-flop hub. 18 was too much like hard work around here so I ride the 20. Not too difficult a decision really.
I have brakes for the occasions that I need to control spinout. I'm comfortable (albeit bouncing) up to around 150.
My bike came equipped with a 48t chainring and an 18/20 flip-flop hub. 18 was too much like hard work around here so I ride the 20. Not too difficult a decision really.
I have brakes for the occasions that I need to control spinout. I'm comfortable (albeit bouncing) up to around 150.
