How to use a D-lock...

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fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
Go for the Fagh - really. If leaving your bike, then it's the Fagh or ABUS top model !

Parkers used to do it for £55. That's where I got mine.

I lock though frame and wheel near rear brake like posted above - totally filled the space. Bit of an ass when the sheffield stands are too close to a wall.
 

Manonabike

Über Member
There's nothing wrong with securing the top tube to an immovable object. I haven't lost a bike yet. I carry a small oxy-acetylene kit in the left-hand pannier and weld my bike to a lamp post. The petrol driven disc-cutter in the right-hand pannier that I use to release the bike adds considerable weight on my commute but I still prefer the panniers to carrying the equipment in a ruck sack. My question is this: should I continue to wear the leather welding apron between home and work or, statisically, is it just as safe to let the sparks hit my middle-aged lycra-clad midriff?

The only problem with that is that you might leave room for a mini jack..... like this

lock-bottlejack.jpg


That is why I use a mini D-lock and fit it like I've shown in the previous post.
 

Ethan

Active Member
You are Hal Ruzal and I claim my fiver ;-)

Jesus, locking my seat has never occurred to me! Which is stupid considering I have a £60 odd just in the saddle and seat post!
I make sure to lock my frame twice and both wheels with good D locks (Thank you university for practically giving away Kryptonite d locks in the anti-bike theft promotion thingy). Always get things as tight as possible!
Going to have to invest in one of them cable things to get the saddle nice and secure!

Thanks for bringing that to my attention!
 

Manonabike

Über Member
Jesus, locking my seat has never occurred to me! Which is stupid considering I have a £60 odd just in the saddle and seat post!
I make sure to lock my frame twice and both wheels with good D locks (Thank you university for practically giving away Kryptonite d locks in the anti-bike theft promotion thingy). Always get things as tight as possible!
Going to have to invest in one of them cable things to get the saddle nice and secure!

Thanks for bringing that to my attention!


Here is something you can make yourself easily..... all you need is an old chain, an old tube and a chain remover tool. Measure the chain so it fits between the seat rail and the seat stay, cut the length by removing the pin. Cut some old tube to length and then fit the chain inside, around the stay and saddle rail. Finally join the chain with a pin. Job done.... like this:


4260353575_15b8e1026b_b.jpg



I think it was Hal Ruzal who invented this little trick, so I give credit where credit is due :smile:
 

Maz

Guru
Here is something you can make yourself easily..... all you need is an old chain, an old tube and a chain remover tool. Measure the chain so it fits between the seat rail and the seat stay, cut the length by removing the pin. Cut some old tube to length and then fit the chain inside, around the stay and saddle rail. Finally join the chain with a pin. Job done.... like this:


4260353575_15b8e1026b_b.jpg



I think it was Hal Ruzal who invented this little trick, so I give credit where credit is due :smile:
But wouldn't a would-be thief just need a chain remover tool to remove a pin and unlock the whole thing?
 

Manonabike

Über Member
But wouldn't a would-be thief just need a chain remover tool to remove a pin and unlock the whole thing?

Of course, but he would have to be carrying an alan key and a chain remover tool!!! You are missing the point though. Nothing would protect your bike 100% against a determine thief, everything we do to protect our bikes will only buy you a little time and hopefully the thieves will rather pick an easier target.

I used this chain thing for a while and a number of cyclists commented positively on it, basically it saves you having to carry a long cable that can be easily cut anyway. These days I use a more drastic method which I would not recommend to anybody that is likely to be adjusting their saddles.... in my case my saddle will not be moving so it works for me :smile:
 
It's not just what lock, and where you place the lock, it's also about how well secured the "accessories" are, and where you lock it.

DSC_0006.jpg

I pass this every day on my commute. I am pretty sure last week it still had a hub.
 

Manonabike

Über Member
It's not just what lock, and where you place the lock, it's also about how well secured the "accessories" are, and where you lock it.

View attachment 7342
I pass this every day on my commute. I am pretty sure last week it still had a hub.


Very true. My bikes are not expensive at all but I built them myself so they have huge sentimental value, hence I do anything in my power to keep them......

In addition to the locks I use (both shown in previous posts) I also use a set of pitlock to secure the wheels...
pit-set02.jpg



I secure the saddle and seatpost with a ball bearing glued to the bolt's head ( not recommended for those people that like to tinker with saddle position)

Basically, if the bike gets stolen then I'd know that it wasn't my fault.
 

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Bodhbh

Guru
Jesus, locking my seat has never occurred to me! Which is stupid considering I have a £60 odd just in the saddle and seat post!...Thanks for bringing that to my attention!

Some saddles, particular something like a tastefully worn-in Brook can be noticed from a mile off and are pretty nickable. My hack bike only has a 15quid saddle, so I jsut use a hoseclip around the QR, but anything decent I'd run a cable thru the rails. In hotspots you wouldn't want to leave a saddle like that Brooks on at all (short of a D-locking that too, lol).
 
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