Incorrectly setup TRP HyRd's - a problem?

[DWM]

Hi All

I have never been entirely satisfied with the TRP HyRd's on my bike.

The brakes have been setup correctly, and will work relatively well for sometime before the performance deteriorates. I do not think this is an issue with contamination and the brake pads still have plenty of material at this point.

Having admitted defeat, I took the bike to my LBS to look at them. The bike is back and the brakes now work, but have been setup incorrectly. The cable has been adjusted so that actuator arm doesn't fully return - I understand this turns the brake into a 'closed' system, ie it won't compensate for pad wear. Is this a problem? Provided I am aware of this, check them regularly and make adjustments to compensate for pad wear (as you would do with a mechanical brake), is this OK? I appreciate that it shouldn't be like this, but I'm just happy to have a powerful working brake again!

Many thanks

Dave

 

[Spoked Wheels]

The cable has been adjusted so that actuator arm doesn't fully return -

That's fine, I found mine worked better like that and that's how I adjust them ever since. 5mm from the end or so.

 

[DWM]

That's fine, I found mine worked better like that and that's how I adjust them ever since. 5mm from the end or so.

Many thanks for your response.

Do you just use the barrel adjuster to accommodate for pad wear?

Cheers

Dave

 

[I like Skol]

Sounds like a bodge, but possibly a necessary one? I assume this is just to take any slack out of the system on the cable side of the operation. Is the 'preload' actually enough to prevent the fluid bypass needed to allow for pad wear?

 

[mythste]

Yeah, I've been doing the same for some time now. (3 years ish) with no real issues. In fact, they don't need adjusting as often as you might think.

They're not great and I'll be replacing with Spyres sometime in the near future.

 

[DWM]

Sounds like a bodge, but possibly a necessary one? I assume this is just to take any slack out of the system on the cable side of the operation. Is the 'preload' actually enough to prevent the fluid bypass needed to allow for pad wear?

I agree it is a bodge, but if it works and is safe, then I am happy with it.

The setup instructions are very specific - the actuator arm must fully return so that the lock knob can be screwed in. Whether or not there will still be a degree of compensation when this is not the case, I don't know.

Cheers

Dave

 

[DWM]

Yeah, I've been doing the same for some time now. (3 years ish) with no real issues. In fact, they don't need adjusting as often as you might think.

They're not great and I'll be replacing with Spyres sometime in the near future.

I'm also considering Spyres (at least for the front). If you do this, I'd appreciate it if you could report back and let me know if they are an improvement.

Cheers

Dave

 

[mythste]

I'm also considering Spyres (at least for the front). If you do this, I'd appreciate it if you could report back and let me know if they are an improvement.

Cheers

Dave

No problem!

I already have them on another bike and though I've only been out on it a few times so far the spyres feel more responsive and the level throw is far less - which works for me! Are they worth changing out? Difficult to say. But if I was starting a fresh and afforded the option of choosing the spyres instead of the Hy-Rd I would.

 

[Nibor]

TRP HYRD brakes really need compression-less outer cable and they really won't work properly (need bodging) without it.

 

[jay clock]

I gave up setting mine up and went to the LBS. Did a great job and knew exactly what fittings/cables would work best. Proof of pudding will be in the eating when I get better weather to test it (new tourer)

 

[Racing roadkill]

TRP HYRD brakes really need compression-less outer cable and they really won't work properly (need bodging) without it.

This.

 

[Racing roadkill]

As you rightly said, if the lever doesn’t return fully, you don’t get the auto adjustment as the pads wear down, without compressionless outers, full on braking will feel spongy.

 

[Racing roadkill]

I'm also considering Spyres (at least for the front). If you do this, I'd appreciate it if you could report back and let me know if they are an improvement.

Cheers

Dave

Spyres are more than likely going to feel totally gash in comparison to the Hy RDs, as long as you get them working properly.

 

[Venod]

One thing to consider with Spyres is the inner arm runs very close to the spokes on the front wheel with a 160 rotor, if you put a bigger rotor on with a spacer for the caliper it gives you a bit more clearance.

I ran mine with the close clearance with no issues but feel much happier with them now I have fitted a 180 rotor, plus it does improve the braking.

 

[mythste]

Spyres are more than likely going to feel totally gash in comparison to the Hy RDs, as long as you get them working properly.

I'm curious as to what makes you say that?