Lakes Holiday

[Rickshaw Phil]

I've just got back from a nice holiday in the Lake District and thought I'd share descriptions and photos from the rides done while up there, which included my first ride over the Hardknott and Wrynose passes . I was especially chuffed as it was the knockabout bike I used for this trip.

I had a significant birthday to celebrate (40) so it was a group holiday with my parents, brother, sister and @gavgav but the rides were just with Doug and Gav.

First off was a shortish one to get us going. We were staying just outside Hawkshead, which is a fabulous location, and headed out from there along the western side of Esthwaite Water before heading to Near Sawrey. We weren't rushing as Doug and Gav haven't been riding much this summer for various reasons, however we still managed to overtake another group which gave them a boost.

We had a bit of irritation between Near Sawrey and Far Sawrey, first being held up by a tourist bus, then by cars that had overtaken but then couldn't go as fast as we could on the downhill bits.

After dropping down towards the ferry, we turned off along the shore of Windermere along the newly surfaced path to Wray Castle (I believe @Moon bunny had a hand in the resurfacing, and it's a cracking job)

We had a quick detour down to the castle which has only recently been opened to the public. We did the tour last time and it's a bit different to other National Trust properties. Worth a look.

The climb back up to High Wray then over to Hawkshead is steeper than it looks. Doug and Gav didn't like that one much.

The house we stayed at. It's all oak panels and low beams inside. There were a few bumped heads over the fortnight.

Fab scenery. This is just south of Hawkshead looking towards Esthwaite Water.

Down by Windermere now and about to turn north along the shore.

A drink stop with Gavgav (in orange) and Doug at the top of a climb on the way to Wray Castle.

And here is the castle itself. Built in the Victorian period for a wealthy surgeon to his own design. Apparently his wife hated it and they never lived there.

Climbing up to High Wray. Doug and Gav grinning and bearing it. You can't go far in The Lakes without climbing a hill.

There is more to come shortly.........

 

[Snapper88]

Ive been looking at a cabin holiday in the lakes to take my bike & cruise around. How were the climbs?

 

[Rickshaw Phil]

Ive been looking at a cabin holiday in the lakes to take my bike & cruise around. How were the climbs?

It depends very much on the route and your fitness. In the central lakes there are plenty of roads that merit gradient arrows on the map, sometimes double arrows. If you have a decent selection of low gears it's all doable though.

 

[Pat "5mph"]

A belated happy birthday to you @Rickshaw Phil
You must have gotten up the hill first to be able to take that picture
Agree with the surgeon's wife: the castle seems a wee bit overwhelming for living quarters

 

[Rickshaw Phil]

A belated happy birthday to you @Rickshaw Phil

Thankyou!

You must have gotten up the hill first to be able to take that picture
Agree with the surgeon's wife: the castle seems a wee bit overwhelming for living quarters

I did get up the hill first. I do plenty of rides in the hilly bits of Shropshire so have a bit more practice than they do. As for the castle, I had mixed feelings about it - it's not as big inside as you might imagine and has more of a rambling country house feel than a castle. It has clearly had its fans over the years - Beatrix Potter's family rented it for at least 1 summer for example.

 

[Rickshaw Phil]

Next ride: This was a slightly more energetic one through Grizedale. We started off with the nice flat road through Hawkshead before turning right at Roger Ground, which immediately took us onto a road which merits a gradient arrow on the map. I don't reckon the climb is quite that bad - Doug and Gav beg to differ, and so did the mountain biker I overtook on the climb last time I cycled this way.

We had a pause at Moor Top before heading onto the forest roads following the Silurian Way trail. It's still pretty steep in places but the views are worth it and once past the Carron Crag area there is a great down hill section that lasts for about 2 miles. The walkers in the forest aren't used to bikes with bells on them so we got loads of favourable comments for having given warning of our approach - except for one group where someone commented "you want to get a bell on that thing!", then looked nonplussed when Gav replied "what, like this one I've just rung at you." Some people just aren't happy unless they're being miserable.

By the time we got to the visitor centre for our lunch stop Doug and Gav had had enough of the gravel trails (as had my bike which had developed a buckle in the back wheel) so we headed south along the road to Satterthwaite (I noticed that enthusiasm for this route increased when I said there was a pub )

A pause was taken at the Eagles Head in Satterthwaite for a nice pint. Before proceeding to Force Mills and turning back towards Hawkshead along the Dale Park Valley where the sight of a "two headed" cow caused great hilarity. This road is a deceptive one - it starts off lovely and flat before suddenly climbing up about 320 feet and dropping down towards Hawkshead. The way down was good though and I hit 31mph.

Gav and Doug manage smiles for the camera despite me having dragged them up a big hill.

Beware low flying balloons!

It's a bit flatter and the scenery is great once you get high up in the forest.

Everone is glad to be back on the tarmac.

This made us laugh.

At the top of the last big climb of the day.

There is more still to come which I shall write up directly.......

 

[coffeejo]

Belated birthday noms!

 

[Rickshaw Phil]

Belated birthday noms!

Awww, thankyou!

 

[Rickshaw Phil]

Part 3: Another longish ride, this time heading north. Over to Outgate and up to The Drunken Duck at Barngates where temptation was resisted and we rode on towards Elterwater. There is a fairly new off road path from Skelwith Bridge to Elterwater which not only gets you off the busy road but is far more scenic. It felt like riding through a Victorian landscape painting - brilliant.

At Elterwater we dropped in to the Britannia Inn for a quick half. Gav was halfway through his when a wasp dived into the glass - for some reason he didn't fancy finishing it after that , so ended up with another half pint while we watched the wasp's swimming technique.

After our refreshment stop we carried on by climbing up to High Close (gets 1 gradient arrow on the map, but felt like it deserved 2) and over to Loughrigg Terrace where we had possibly the best view of the holiday while we had lunch. Loughrigg Terrace is a bit on the rough side for our bikes really (especially as I'd only just trued the wheel on mine after the last ride), so we took it slow and had to walk/carry them in a couple of places. The mountain bike crowd bomb along here despite how busy it is so we got some good comments from the walkers about the fact were were taking it steady.

After the rough stuff the quiet road alongside the River Rothay was pretty welcome as we headed into Ambleside. I was going to (jokingly) suggest a ride up The Struggle, but Gav pre-empted me by saying a firm NO. Just as well really as we had plenty of climbing still to do along the lanes up to Barngates and The Drunken Duck, where a pint and the view over Ambleside was enjoyed.

Doug was definitely flagging by this point so it's just as well the return to Hawkshead was mostly downhill.

We've joined the path to Elterwater.

Just one of the stunning views en route - looking towards the Langdales.

After the pub stop and looking back down towards Elterwater. This little climb is steeper than expected.

How's that for a lunch stop view. Looking down on Grasmere from Loughrigg Terrace.

The path drops down to lake level by Rydal Water.

Back up at the Drunken Duck after a load more climbing. The drinks felt well earned!

Looking back towards Ambleside after leaving the pub.

My sentiments exactly.

Still more to come - this time my big 3 passes ride........

 

[Rickshaw Phil]

Part 4: Hardknott and Wrynose. This is a ride I've wanted to do for quite a while and didn't expect Doug and Gav to join me, however as the plan was to start in Eskdale and ride back to Hawkshead, they and Jenny (my sister) drove me over and gave moral support (and reassuring backup)while I did the hilly bits.

We drove over Birker Fell on the way out as it's a much easier road with the bike on the roof and I was dropped off near the King George IV pub in Eskdale - the plan being to have a fairly easy 4 miles or so as a warm up before hitting the passes. After a quick pit stop at Dalegarth, they headed up to Hardknott Fort while I worked my way up the valley.

Once you get about a mile away, the pass looms in the distance and there is no way of disguising the fact that this is going to be hard work. Then when you get within 1/4 mile you can smell the pass - it smells of burned out brakes and clutch.

This is a climb that doesn't mess about. it goes straight from level to steep and the first of the hairpin bends is only about 100 yards into the climb. Just after the cattle grid I passed a family who had just parked up to walk. The wife said "You're brave", the husband said "Or stupid" and their little lad said "Or maybe it's a bit of both". I said "I'll let you know when I get to the top".

The hairpins were tough but I managed to keep moving (a 20" granny gear helps a lot ) and was relieved when the gradient lessened and I was able to sit and wind my way up to the fort - where Doug, Jen and Gav weren't ready for me as they'd expected me to take much longer to reach them.

I had a drink, photo and Eccles cake stop here and looked at what was happening further up the pass. A group of 5 people were attempting the top hairpins in a Toyota Aygo and had stalled. We saw the passengers all get out and the driver attempted it alone, but the car still didn't have enough oomph to get up the hill (funny, I've never had any trouble getting my 1 litre Mini up there), so now he had to attempt a 3 point turn on a 30% hairpin bend. Fun from where we were watching.

Setting off again I passed the Toyota sat at the side of the road and the passengers all studying a map for an alternative route while I wound my way up. The top hairpins are tougher than the lower ones and the tarmac is all rippled where cars have scrabbled for grip. Again I managed to keep moving and it felt amazing to stand at the top of the climb and see how high I'd come under my own power.

I took a few photos at the top and dropped down to the next passing place where it was more sheltered from the cold wind.

After my support crew caught up I followed them down into Wrynose Bottom (more photo opportunities) before they headed to the top of Wrynose Pass to await my arrival.

Wrynose is still steep but approaching from the west isn't anywhere near as daunting as Hardknott, however the legs were getting tired now so there was more standing on the pedals and going very slow than there might usually have been.

After more photos, we seperated - I was headed back to Hawkshead and the others were going on to Coniston. After descending Wrynose I took it into my head to ride the pass from Little Langdale into Great Langdale as it didn't look too bad (only 1 set of double gradient arrows ) I've never been this way and didn't know what to expect. It was definitely worth the effort as the road past Blea Tarn is pretty scenic - the landscape looks like something out of Lord of the Rings.

Dropping into Great Langdale gave me a nice long, mostly downhill run into Elterwater which certainly helped the average speed a bit, before I had to climb up to Barngates (no pint this time) and drop into Hawkshead.

It was a really amazing ride - big respect to those who can tackle those passes as part of a bigger ride - the 23 miles I did were enough for me this time. Average speed was slow but reasonable given the amount of climbing at 8.99mph.

At the foot of the climb and raring to go. Apologies for the focus.

Drink and cake stop - looking up at how far I still have to go!

I made it to the top of the hairpins - that is one big climb!

Down in Wrynose Bottom now. It's a mile and a bit to the next pass.

Taken by Doug - me climbing up Wrynose Pass.

I'm not sure if that's a grin or grimace on my face.

At the 3 counties stone.

I've done 2 passes and let myself in for more. This is on the Blea Tarn road over to Great Langdale.

Looking down into Great Langdale now.

At the other end of Great Langdale and the countryside is noticeably less rugged.

 

[coffeejo]

Phil, you're mad

 

[RAYMOND]

Cheers for the post.loved it.

 

[Rickshaw Phil]

Phil, you're mad

But happy.

 

[Rickshaw Phil]

Part 5: Not cycling this time but I got some good snapshots. After a couple of days rest Gav, Doug and I went off to climb The Old Man of Coniston - only the second time we've attempted this climb. The first time we were discusssing our achievement in the pub and feeling really good about ourselves, then Doug noticed that Chris Bonington was sat at the next table (he was there for an event), which kind of brought us down to earth a bit.

We started off by finding the road to the Sun Inn closed and with no apparent access for pedestrians despite the signs saying that there was. No problem - we just take the road to the station instead...... however approaching from this direction we took a wrong turn and ended up going up the Walna Scar road by mistake. That wasn't a problem either to be honest and apart from the first mile or so which is bloomin' steep (as steep as Hardknott in places) it was actually an easier route.

Once we'd got onto the proper paths the gradient ramped up again, which was harder work on the loose slate surfaces (this is the easy tourist path by the way ). A couple of Eccles cake stops were required before reaching the ironically named Low Water (approx 2200' altitude) which was a good point for a lunch stop.

The next section is the hardest as it is very steep and quite loose under foot. The views at this stage are fantastic though and unlike last time we were up here it was quite clear so we could see for miles, especially at the top (2634' asl). We'd had a look at Wainwright's description of a summit scene before setting out: "tourists looking south trying to see Blackpool Tower, a pack of scouts around the cairn and a lone walker looking north drinking in the view of the fells (bless him)". The actual summit scene was so like this when we got there it was hard not to laugh.

Gav was able to post a picture onto facebook as there was a 3G signal at the summit, but not in Coniston.

The way down is naturally less effort due to the assistance of gravity, but hard on the legs due to the angle of the slope and the surface. We felt for the climbers that we met on the way down who were clearly unfit and red in the face but who had at least another hour and a half of climbing to go.

A stop at the Black Bull was called for at the bottom, where an Old Man Ale and Bluebird Bitter were enjoyed. We took 2.5 hours on the way up and about 1.5 hours on the way down which was quicker than last time, but my legs hurt more after this than the passes.

We've climbed about 800 feet at this point, which feels like a long way but it's still just the easy bit really.

Passing the old slate workings. The remains of the old ropeway lie across the path. Yes it is as steep as it looks!

We've climbed a fair bit, but still plenty to go.

At Low Water - fed & watered and ready for the steep bit.

Getting on quite well now and looking back towards Coniston Water.

The summit and looking to the even bigger mountains in the Scafell range.

Low Water from the summit. You don't want to miss your footing just here!

Later on, @gavgav enjoys a well earned pint.

 

[Rickshaw Phil]

Part 6: The last ride of the trip and the only ride during the second week due to sore legs and plentiful weather. Doug and Gav had expressed a wish to do a ride that included a ferry crossing so I plotted a route.

The first thing was to ride down to Wray Castle where there is a bike ferry across to Brockhole. It's been pretty wet so we were glad of the mudguards this time. Reaching the jetty we had a few minutes to wait for the next boat which gave us time to admire steam launch Mosquito which was being prepared for use at the next jetty.

When the ferry arrived we had it to ourselves which made for a very pleasant trip across. A quick pitstop at Brockhole allowed a chance to admire their treetop adventure (not for me I don't like heights) before proceeding to Bowness. The road was very busy and many of the drivers were quite inconsiderate, which meant we were glad to get onto some quieter bits at Bowness (the descent on Rayrigg Road was pretty fun though - 34mph top speed ).

We paused for lunch just off Glebe Road and were able to watch numerous steam launches running about. The Steam Boat Association were having their annual Windermere Week, so there were more about than usual.

A Japanese tourist asked Doug to take a photo of her, which he obliged to do, she then asked for a couple of photos with Gav and I. We speculated whether having seen Doug's Team GB shirt, she thought we were someone famous.

The car ferry crossing was next and we arrived just in time to get on. It always feels a bit more special using this ferry when cycling and this time was no exception, especially as there were a good 15 other riders with us.

After the ferry we headed back towards Wray Castle along the shore path used on the first ride. We were a bit quicker this time and left our fellow cyclists behind. Both Doug and Gav were feeling energetic this time so we decided to extend the ride up to Barngates (pub!). We took a new path which avoids the road, unfortunately it doesn't appear to have been compacted down yet so it was quite hard going and we were glad to get back on the road, even if it was uphill.

After pints had been quaffed, Gav said he'd be disappointed not to ride up to Tarn Hows as it was so close and Doug seemed keen too, so we set off in that direction. I'd forgotten how steep the road up to Tarn Hows is and Doug was really struggling by the time we got to the top. We made it though and the views made it all worthwhile.

On the way back down to Hawkshead we passed my parents who had decided to drive up to Tarn Hows. If we'd stayed just a few minutes longer we'd have met them up there.

The steep hill made for a fun descent and a nice way to finish the trip.

Mosquito, a steam speedboat. I was lucky enough to have a ride in her a few years back (before the speed limit came in) and can tell you she can certainly shift!

The boathouse at Wray Castle. I believe the other steam launch inside is Shamrock.

Doug on the Bike ferry.

Lunch stop on Glebe Road - looking up Windermere with another steam launch in Bowness Bay.

Aboard the car ferry this time.

Tarn Hows - one of my favourite places in the Lakes.

Weary but happy and about to start the ride back down to Hawkshead.