long walk
- Thread starter fossyant
- Start date
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OP
OP
fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
Good stuff.
That's some frightening rim wear though, how many miles do you do in those 14 Months?
Only about 4000 (14 months), and 8000 (24 months) on the front. I recon it's the crap that gets kicked up onto the rear rim in bad weather.
Chromatic
Legendary Member
- Location
- Gloucestershire
Pity you don't live near me and ride along a road I drive along, I'd have picked you up and transported you to your destination if I had past you and noticed your predicament. Did it the other day, I was driving to work and drove past a bloke pushing his bike along the road, so I stopped and asked if he had a problem. He had a flat rear tyre, he had no spare tube or means to repair it so I bunged his bike on the rack and took him to work. Saved him about a 5 mile walk I reckon.
Panter
Just call me Chris...
- Location
- Sittingbourne, Kent
Thanks for that, the rims on my SCR are coming up for 7000 miles now and I commute through really gritty, muddy lanes.
I think I'll give them a really thorough examination before I next go out!
Just pump them up to 50% more than the maximum tyre pressure. If they survive that, reduce the pressure and they'll be fine for a while longer. Its a test recommended by Chris Juden at the CTC.
Panter
Just call me Chris...
- Location
- Sittingbourne, Kent
Many thanks, I'll do that then (assuming my Lidl track pump will go that high!)
Holdsworth
Guru
- Location
- Crewe, Cheshire
How do you check a rim for wear? Mine a groove all the way around which assume is for this purpose but how to tell what is acceptable or not. It isn't as though as I should worry as I have done well under 1k since I bought the bike 2 months ago.
No, the rim just bulges outwards rather than inwards
If the groove is there and roughly centred in the worn region its OK. if its gone its not OK. If its not centred in the worn region then it will be located on a thicker part of the rim so try the 50% over-pressure test instead.
OP
OP
fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
Once they go, they go. BANG !
Fortunately it didn't blow a couple of miles earlier when I was doing 30 down hill (fixed so top speed is limited).
Fortunately it didn't blow a couple of miles earlier when I was doing 30 down hill (fixed so top speed is limited).
potsy
Rambler
- Location
- My Armchair
This has got me worried about my rims now, done about 6,000 miles on the front wheel and I assume that will take the most hammer.
Can't imagine my wheels are worth a re-build, what checks can I do to spot the signs early enough?
Shimano RS10's btw.
This could be another reason to go disc brake road/cx bike next time.
Can't imagine my wheels are worth a re-build, what checks can I do to spot the signs early enough?
Shimano RS10's btw.
This could be another reason to go disc brake road/cx bike next time.
OP
OP
fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
Look at the wear carefully. Not sure if RS10's have indicators. My CXP 33's don't, but the side that went was concave and looked like it was wearing thin. My fronts have worn totally flat (less road grit) and you can see the whole braking surface is wearing away.
Mileage isn't always an indicator - its usually the conditions you ride. If you do lots of wet weather riding, then your rims will wear much faster than dry only miles.
Depends upon how you brake - I use my rear and front, but there is usually more cack on the back rims. I even change pads regular.
The rims I've just fitted to replace the CXP33's are 20 year old Mavic Open 4 CD's, but the only wear is the annodising (paint) on the braking surface. They have done 1000's of miles, but mostly in good conditions as they were fitted to my best bike as training wheels until about 5 years ago. These will do me till after the winter when I'll get a new set built (only have the one set of wheels for the fixed at the moment).
The test above works - i.e. pump the tyres to 150 plus PSI !
Mileage isn't always an indicator - its usually the conditions you ride. If you do lots of wet weather riding, then your rims will wear much faster than dry only miles.
Depends upon how you brake - I use my rear and front, but there is usually more cack on the back rims. I even change pads regular.
The rims I've just fitted to replace the CXP33's are 20 year old Mavic Open 4 CD's, but the only wear is the annodising (paint) on the braking surface. They have done 1000's of miles, but mostly in good conditions as they were fitted to my best bike as training wheels until about 5 years ago. These will do me till after the winter when I'll get a new set built (only have the one set of wheels for the fixed at the moment).
The test above works - i.e. pump the tyres to 150 plus PSI !
If you learn to use the front brake more then you will get less wear on the rear which is an inefficient brake at the best of times.
Please not. Just 50% over the max pressure marked on the tyre. 150psi on some tyres rated for lower pressures will blow them off the rim but any tyre should easily cope with 50% overpressure.
biking_fox
Legendary Member
- Location
- Manchester
I'd known my rims were getting thin. But was busy etc. Finally had a free weekend to service bike ... and realised the dark spots were actually holes!!!!!!!!! Even though I'd ridden home on it, I walked the bike to the shop for new wheels!
Depends a bit on the rim, but you can hold a straight edge against the bottom and top, to see how much curve/wear there is in the middle. Most rims are 1.5-2mm thick and should be replaced between 0.5 and 1mm remaining.
Depends a bit on the rim, but you can hold a straight edge against the bottom and top, to see how much curve/wear there is in the middle. Most rims are 1.5-2mm thick and should be replaced between 0.5 and 1mm remaining.
