Lube...

[Smurfy]

If I had a penny for every post on the topic of chain lube............................

Oh, and to answer the question, White Lightning Clean Ride all year round for me. In case you're wondering, that's a dry lube, and like all dry lubes it won't work properly unless the chain is totally degreased and dried before application.

 

[ayceejay]

It is important to find the lubrication that makes parts function without friction and using one that has been developed for a specific application somewhere else may cause unpleasantness.
Take the non throw oils that are used to lubricate a chainsaw or a helicopter that comes in different grades depending on the season (temperature) would these be suitable for a bicycle chain if so how/why?
A bicycle chain is different from a chainsaw and has an interior that someone above uses an hypodermic syringe to reach and while this may be over kill it is more appropriate, you also want it to be on the outside enough for free running without being a magnet for gunge. The lube that does this is the one you are looking for.

 

[Garethgas]

I do apologise if that's the case it's not something I've ever seen written. Have you got a link to the shimano document ?

Please don't apologise.
Some people are very obsessive about how they lube their chain. Like most people, I have a little routine that seems to work for me and you will have one of your own I'm sure.
I like to think I'm somewhere in between, I wouldn't run it dry until it siezes but I also don't buy expensive bike specific oil either (except last weekend just because it was £2.00).
If you remove the factory stuff, as long as you lube it afterwards it will be just fine. It's just that there's no need and it stays on for a good few months with my riding. And that's all you'd be losing out on really, no harm will be done.
Mechanically, a chain is a low tech device and in my view doesn't warrant such in-depth attention other than routine cleaning and a drop of oil...any oil.
Today's oils are highly synthesised to achieve certain properties. A chain oil only has to be thin enough to penetrate and it will work. The rest of the properties are just nice to have ie. repel grime, stay clean, stay on the chain etc. which many people see as a worthwhile benefit.
Having said that, my bike is a very old, cheap and cheerful hybrid so it's not as if I'm at the cutting edge of bike technology! Also, my typical cruising speed is between 15 and 18 mph so not as fast as a racing bike which might or might not have an influence on oil choice
Anyway, here's a link I found for you as requested.

http://www.bikerumor.com/2011/06/28/chainwear-challenge-quick-interview-with-shimano/

 

[the_mikey]

See this:
http://www.kmcchain.eu/maintenance

I use the @mickle method for keeping the chain clean and sufficiently lubricated.

 

[youngoldbloke]

It is important to find the lubrication that makes parts function without friction and using one that has been developed for a specific application somewhere else may cause unpleasantness.
Take the non throw oils that are used to lubricate a chainsaw or a helicopter that comes in different grades depending on the season (temperature) would these be suitable for a bicycle chain if so how/why?
A bicycle chain is different from a chainsaw and has an interior that someone above uses an hypodermic syringe to reach and while this may be over kill it is more appropriate, you also want it to be on the outside enough for free running without being a magnet for gunge. The lube that does this is the one you are looking for.

I don't consider this overkill at all. I clean the chain with a rag ('Mickle' - ish method) and then use a 5 or10ml syringe with a blunt needle (as used for refilling printer ink cartridges) to apply one drop of Progold per roller, on the inside of the chain. It's all you need. Then if required wipe off any excess by running the chain through a rag, this will also spread enougth lube onto the outer plates to keep them rust free. Only ever lube the chain, there will be enough lube on it to transfer lube to the cassette cogs and chain rings. No point in wasting lube by drenching the chain (and the floor) by applying straight from the bottle. Prolink sell their own 'Luber', with a fine applicator but I have found the flexible plastic body eventually degrades and cracks. Anyway syringes and blunt needles are easily and cheaply available online.

 

[Dragonwight]

Most chains are factory waxed, it's a waxy substance they put on to stop it from tarnishing on the shelf. Really you should be stripping it off with a solvent and then lubing.

KMC also say leave it on. Take a peek at their EU website under tips.

 

[fossyant]

Shimano categorically state that you should leave it on until it wears out then use your regular lube

And with KMC. The factory lubes are good, if sticky. Just wipe the outside of the chain with, wait for it, lube ! I never degrease a chain. Absolutely no need.

 

[ianrauk]

And with KMC. The factory lubes are good, if sticky. Just wipe the outside of the chain with, wait for it, lube ! I never degrease a chain. Absolutely no need.

+1