Mastering replacing inner tubes

[Specialeyes]

In addition to all of the above - talc especially - when you come to fit a tube, put a bit of air into it so it takes a bit of shape and you can roll it into the rim so that the second bead of the tyre is then sitting flush on the outside of the rim. Then let a bit of air out and, starting at the valve, work the second bead into the well of the rim, pushing the tyre around the rim and away from the valve. You're trying to induce some slack in the bead by using the lesser circumference of the well in the middle of the rim, and work that slack around to the last bit of bead opposite the valve which you can sometimes then just roll over the rim, or give a little flip with a tyre lever.

 

[12boy]

I use cheap but stout steel levers having broken a bunch of plastic ones, mostly on Schwalbe Marathons. The steel ones can have sharp edges so I smooth them off . The steel ones are slimmer and get between the rim and the bead more easily.
I put the valve stem part on last, as this allows me to push the bead into the center of the rim as I go, which in turn frees up a little room. Once I learned to do this I can get most tires back on with my thumbs only. Make sure you push the tube inside the tire as you go...when using an iron for the last bit you can pinch and puncture the tube. I like a little bit of air in the tube when installing it.
I've found most beads stretch a bit after the tire has been used and has gone on and off few times.
Definitely check the inside of the tire to find the piercing item. Sometimes cheap rim liners can move around and leave a spoke nipple bare which can also lacerate a tube. It doesn't hurt to check your tires after riding over glass....sometimes it takes riding for a ways todrive the glass through the casing, so if you catch it quickly you can avoid a flat.
I prefer self glued patches for roadside repair...while the glued kind do a better job, the glue can dry out in the tube which isn't good to discover a long way from home.
Lastly I like Lezyne pumps with their screw on fittings, but others work well too.

 

[a.twiddler]

Another thing about thorns is that if you can cut off the protruding bit it often will seal the tube enough for you to finish your ride (might need a few pumps along the way to keep the pressure up) and then you can fix it in the discomfort of your own home.

It's such an irresistible temptation to pull at it because "maybe it hasn't gone through the tube" (ooh yes it has!) -well, it's nearly panto season, I couldn't resist that temptation either.

 

[MichaelW2]

Most wheels need checking for inner tube reliability. With the tyre off run your finger over the rim tape to check for any spokes that are too long. Should not happen on new bikes.
Check the valve hole for sharp edges and smoothe with a bit of emery cloth or fine sandpaper.
Check that the rim tape stays in place
Note the central well in the rim cross section where the rim tape and spoke heads are found. This well has a smaller diameter than the normal resting place for the tyre bead. Use this smaller diameter to aid tyre fitting by squeezing the bead into the centre.

 

[Sharky]

If you get a puncture when miles from home and can't get the tyre off/on, don't be afraid or embarrassed of flagging down a passing cyclist. Most of us will be more than happy to help. I have been flagged down a couple of times and I always shout out as I pass if they look like they need help.

 

[MichaelW2]

When fitting tyre bead around the valve, push the whole valve inside the rim a bit, seat the bead, pull the valve out. Beads can get trapped around the valve and fail to seat.

 

[mjr]

Change gear to small-small if possible to make it easier to remove and reinsert the wheel without handling the chain.

 

[cyberknight]

@fossyant beat me to it but applying talc to your tyres makes the job much easier. I unpack my spare tubes, apply talc, wrap in newspaper, wrap in cling film. I run Gatorskins and can fit these with my thumbs using this method.

I'd also suggest investing in a Crank Brothers Speedier Lever. The right hand end is for removing the tyre and the left for installing. Works brilliantly and is very strong.

https://images.app.goo.gl/gHKiTsCvntQsx9az5

how good are these ?
right hand thumb joint is painful all the time atm and i have to use levers for any tyre combo

 

[PaulSB]

how good are these ?
right hand thumb joint is painful all the time atm and i have to use levers for any tyre combo

I find mine very good because:

• There is a hand grip which allows one to pull the lever round the rim easily
• Having a hand in the grip protects knuckles when everything slips!
• The lever is much stronger so less likely to snap than traditional levers
• The on/off feature is very useful especially the putting on end

I do carry traditional levers as well as sometimes using one of these locked on the spoke is useful.

I do have a Crank Brothers extendable lever which is even better but unfortunately doesn't work with through axles.

 

[mjr]

I can't get the Speedier Lever to work on narrow road tyres. If it won't go on normally, the next stop is a Kool Stop Bead Jack.

 

[bobsinatra]

When you get the punctured tube out make sure you don't flip to over, but keep it in the same orientation it was on the wheel. Pump up the tube and you can usually see the puncture easily. Line up the tube over the wheel and that will give you a good idea of where the thorn went into the tyre. Makes it easy to find and remove the damn thing!

I did this tip, thanks.

I couldn't see the hole as it is tiny, but using a foot pump on it, sorted out the issue.

It went in close to the valve.

Thankfully the replacement tube I put in, is now staying inflated.

But all the messing around with inner tubes, I feel my understanding has improved.

 

[bobsinatra]

Do people just bin inner tubes like this or can it be patched up?

 

[SkipdiverJohn]

I just nip the valave up with pliers when fitting a new tube, mind you the pumps I use now are push on's but it is an old habit.

I had the presta core come out of a Conti cross 28 tube yesterday when I went to pump up the tyres on my Raleigh Gemini that I had dragged out after months of disuse. Luckily the tyre was very soft so the valve didn't go anywhere and I just screwed it back in and nipped it up a bit tighter.
As to the OP, if you want to avoid tube changing hassles; a) fit proper puncture-resistant Schwalbes not flimsy roadie tyres, and b) don't run skinny 23's because there's very little air volume in them and changing tubes on narrow tyres is a pain in the arse regardless. The wider the tyre you can get away with fitting, the easier it is to both mount tyres and refit tubes as there's more flexibility in the tyre and more space inside it to stuff in the tube. I don't run anything narrower than a 28, and that's only because on one bike a 32 is just too close for comfort if it even goes slightly out of true or flexes when being ridden.

 

[PaulSB]

Do people just bin inner tubes like this or can it be patched up?

I always bin punctured tubes unless I'm stranded without a new one. You'll get many different responses! I have an irrational worry that if I'm reliant on a patched tube it's more likely to fail on me.

I don't like to ride with unnecessary worries.

 

[screenman]

It always seemed on group rides that the guys who patched punctures the most often.