Mickle Method with Dry Lube?

[derrick]

I use WD40 after every ride to clean of the muck, then GT85 before every ride in the summer, but a proper chain oil (Finish line wet lube)in the winter, Chains seem to last well enough, as said before they are a consumable item, got through three chains last year, just over 7000 miles.

 

[EasyPeez]

"Good as any," was his slightly world weary response to such a fresh and interesting question.

I like that! I wonder why it is that bike mechs are such an excitable bunch...

 

[EasyPeez]

Thats why i said i'd rather change a chain too early, to protect the cassette etc

This suggests that you don't change the chain and cassette together? The bike mech (whose advice I am willing to overlook given that I have been warned on this thread that he doesn't know his onions!) said they always recommend changing cassette and chain together once chain reaches .5 to .75 wear. I guess they would say that as it's more profit for them, but is it the best thing to do?

Before getting this new bike I rode (albeit it very much on and off) my old MTB for 14 years without a new cassette, chain or set of brake blocks...I never saw this level of expense and maintenance coming when I bought my new machine!

 

[Turbo Rider]

Depends how worn the cassette is. I've heard it said that if you change your chain on .75 wear, you can go through 3 chains before you need a new cassette. Not sure myself. Messed mine right up by not checking my chain at all for 8 months and the result was a messed up everything. Started going wrong after about 3 or 4 months though and though I could hear it, I just put up with it, so by that rationale, I'd say you should be able to hear and feel when you need a new cassette. They also look a bit different when worn. Bit sharper. If in doubt, buy both and compare the new cassette to the existing one...I use the same method to check my cleats...always a good thing to keep new spares...

 

[mjr]

The higher chain line on a bike without a derailleur keeps the chain out of the worst of the road dirt, the chain always runs in a perfect line chain ring to sprocket, and the wear caused by dragging the chain across a rear cassette is absent.

Plus many of them use thicker 1/8" chains, have chain guards or full cases and have only one thicker chainring. The drawbacks are lower theoretical maximum efficiency and some bad bike shops refusing to repair them. Price worth paying?

 

[derrick]

I change cassette every other chain. that's on a 10 speed.

 

[gbb]

This suggests that you don't change the chain and cassette together? The bike mech (whose advice I am willing to overlook given that I have been warned on this thread that he doesn't know his onions!) said they always recommend changing cassette and chain together once chain reaches .5 to .75 wear. I guess they would say that as it's more profit for them, but is it the best thing to do?

Before getting this new bike I rode (albeit it very much on and off) my old MTB for 14 years without a new cassette, chain or set of brake blocks...I never saw this level of expense and maintenance coming when I bought my new machine!

Its a general rule, and a very accepted one, that one cassette SHOULD last three chains, assuming those chains are changed before too much wear has set in.
Chain and cassette every time...only if the chain was sooo stretched it had worn out the cassette. A proper regime would prevent that, that would be some serious abuse.

 

[S.Giles]

My chain is dirty!

 

[LouiseSJPP]

@gbb, the Zen art of bicycle maintenance

From Wiki, on WD40: "The long-term active ingredient is a non-volatile, viscous oil which remains on the surface, providing lubrication and protection from moisture.[5] This is diluted with a volatile hydrocarbon to give a low viscosity fluid which can be sprayed and thus penetrate crevices. The volatile hydrocarbon then evaporates, leaving the oil behind. A propellant (originally a low-molecular weight hydrocarbon, now carbon dioxide) provides gas pressure in the can to force the liquid through the spray nozzle, then evaporates away".

The water-displacement property, the ability to penetrate crevices and to leave oil behind are, I think, useful properties in chain care. I like to wipe over with lightish oil afterwards, having had rust problems in the arduous mountain biking days, but this was probably from trying a dry lube, which did not work out well. But deep down, I believe that the wiping of oil over the chain probably does more damage than anything else, as it just smears any dirt on the chain into the joints. It's an emotional thing, it doesn't feel right not to wipe it!

 

[Pale Rider]

@gbb, the Zen art of bicycle maintenance

From Wiki, on WD40: "The long-term active ingredient is a non-volatile, viscous oil which remains on the surface, providing lubrication and protection from moisture.[5] This is diluted with a volatile hydrocarbon to give a low viscosity fluid which can be sprayed and thus penetrate crevices. The volatile hydrocarbon then evaporates, leaving the oil behind. A propellant (originally a low-molecular weight hydrocarbon, now carbon dioxide) provides gas pressure in the can to force the liquid through the spray nozzle, then evaporates away".

The water-displacement property, the ability to penetrate crevices and to leave oil behind are, I think, useful properties in chain care. I like to wipe over with lightish oil afterwards, having had rust problems in the arduous mountain biking days, but this was probably from trying a dry lube, which did not work out well. But deep down, I believe that the wiping of oil over the chain probably does more damage than anything else, as it just smears any dirt on the chain into the joints. It's an emotional thing, it doesn't feel right not to wipe it!

Looks like WD40 would do a similar job to GT85 as a chain lube.

I prefer GT85 because it's a bit more versatile, a spray and wipe over the rest of the bike (not the disc brake rotors) lifts light greasy marks and leaves a nice shiny finish on the wheels and paintwork.

I also have a standing price of £2 a tin with the bike shop, so GT85 is more cost effective for me.

I've tried wiping the chain with a tiny bit of motor oil on a rag, but the chain picks up dirt as soon as I start a ride.

That doesn't happen to anything like the same degree with just GT85.

 

[mjr]

Of the two, I also prefer GT85 for bikes because WD40 (which I use on some things around the garden) sometimes leaves a slightly polished surface finish which I'm not sure about on a chain.

 

[gbb]

Do what I do (or did)...try what you fancy, WD, engine oil, cycle specific oil, chainsaw oil...whatever, but unless you monitor mileage achieved, you really have no idea how one does against the other.
Some of my past experience..
SRAM, 105, Veloce and KMC, they all performed much of a muchness with regular cleaning and oiling, be it cycle specific oil or engine oil...they all did IRO 1200 to 1500 miles before I replaced them using a chain guage at .5 or thereabouts.
The only noticeable difference was WD40, chain lasted roughly 700 miles. Short mileage, but gloriously clean chain.
Swings and roundabouts, you can't have it all...you decide.

I always get 3 chains to one cassette, the only chainrings ive replaced were at 6000 miles ish.

 

[EasyPeez]

3 chains to one cassette sounds a bit more like it! Do most of you order chains online and fit yourself or take it into the LBS for a new chain? Are most chains as good as one another or should I be looking for certain ones when it's time to replace (got a Shimano on currently)? Thanks for the feedback.

Lube-wise I'm still on the factory stuff at the moment but seeing as I've bought this ceramic gubbins I'm going to degrease next weekend and try that, with regular wiping and re-application during the week and a full degrease and re-lube every month or two depending on mileage/muck levels. I'll see how that pans out first then consider some of the other regimens suggested on here.

I love GT85 for the cassette and frame. If I don't get on with the ceramic stuff I'll try your method next and use just that on the chain too @Pale Rider.

Thanks for the help with this, everyone.

 

[Pale Rider]

3 chains to one cassette sounds a bit more like it! Do most of you order chains online and fit yourself or take it into the LBS for a new chain? Are most chains as good as one another or should I be looking for certain ones when it's time to replace (got a Shimano on currently)? Thanks for the feedback.

Lube-wise I'm still on the factory stuff at the moment but seeing as I've bought this ceramic gubbins I'm going to degrease next weekend and try that, with regular wiping and re-application during the week and a full degrease and re-lube every month or two depending on mileage/muck levels. I'll see how that pans out first then consider some of the other regimens suggested on here.

I love GT85 for the cassette and frame. If I don't get on with the ceramic stuff I'll try your method next and use just that on the chain too @Pale Rider.

Thanks for the help with this, everyone.

GT85 will clean your cassette, but I would be inclined to use car wash and wax solution.

You want to avoid GT85 coming into contact with the ceramic lube, GT85 is a solvent and it will attempt to dissolve the lube, possibly leaving you with a sloppy mess on the chain.

The wash and wax is a detergent, so should lift the cassette dirt - stiff brush required - if you then dry the cassette with a rag, you can lube the chain without fear of the lube doing anything you don't want it to.

No need to lube the cassette individually, what's on the chain will see to that.

Chain replacement and brand could make another fascinating thread, but KMC are well recommend on here and by my local bike shop.

Yet more choice even if you restrict yourself to KMC.

No point in buying the dearest, equally probably best to avoid the cheapest.

Ten speed chains are a bit dearer than eight, but one for £15 or a bit less should do the job.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/kmc-x10-93-10-speed-chain/rp-prod120676

Easy enough to do yourself, although you will need a chain breaker.

This Park Tools one for a tenner is excellent.

Chris my bike mechanic mate told me one has lasted well in their workshop, so it will last you a lifetime.

It's also small enough should you decide to carry it - and a quick link - on the bike.

I've never had a chain snap, but compromise by carrying mine on longer rides - if I remember to pick it up.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/...gclid=CMXKgovtvcQCFfQatAodKVUAPw&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[mickle]

A good quality cassette will last a decade of everyday use if you treat your chains right and replace them often enough.