MTB tyre change to 700C

[figbat]

I went the other way from 29” to 27.5” as it allowed me to up my cadence to a more comfortable rate (90-100rpm) for me, I don’t like slow 60-80rpm..

You changed your wheels to achieve a gearing adjustment? I’m genuinely interested as to why go this way rather than a chainring or cassette change?

 

[bikingdad90]

You changed your wheels to achieve a gearing adjustment? I’m genuinely interested as to why go this way rather than a chainring or cassette change?

The bike in question is used with a children’s seat on the back so it solved the other problem of the seat bottoming out on the top of the tyre when going over rough ground by creating a bit more clearance. When the seat is no longer used I shall be putting slicker tyres on and having a whirl with the 29” wheels again as I do ride road bikes with 700c wheels.

 

[Ajax Bay]

I went the other way from 29” to 27.5” as it allowed me to up my cadence to a more comfortable rate (90-100rpm) for me, I don’t like slow 60-80rpm.

it solved the other problem of . . . creating a bit more clearance

So basically the 'allowed me to up my cadence' is [Edit] complete b****ks a rationale I find difficult to find valid.

You changed your wheels to achieve a gearing adjustment? I’m genuinely interested as to why go this way rather than a chainring or cassette change?

You are SO polite. I resisted engaging after the 'cadence' post.
Perhaps 'dad' could share a Strava ride showing his comfortable average cadence.

 

[bikingdad90]

So basically the 'allowed me to up my cadence' is complete b****ks.

You are SO polite. I resisted engaging after the 'cadence' post.
Perhaps 'dad' could share a Strava ride showing his comfortable average cadence.

Err @Ajax Bay, not it’s not complete rubbish. I had two issues; cadence and clearance and going for the smaller wheels solved both issues.

And to prove the cadence point, here is a recent ride which shows I like to spin around 90-100rpm.

Next time @Ajax Bay, perhaps keep your crude and rather impolite use of language to yourself as no one deserves to be written to in that manner, it is just rude and pushes friendly forum members away who cannot be bothered putting up with the poor attitude shown. There was a much better way of approaching the topic that you were sceptical about, that isn’t so confrontational and would have been more appropriate such as posing a secondary question.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Why not just change to a lower gear? You haven't answered @figbat 's politely phrased question at all. OK, maybe not 'complete' b****ks.
Merry Christmas, and I suggest you don't take 'chat' so seriously. By all means report me to the mods and I will edit my asterisks.
I applaud your inclusion of young child in your cycling expeditions.
But like @figbat I'm interested. Moving to 584 from 622 with similar tyres (37 say) implies a gear length reduction of 6%, similar to going from a 16t sprocket to a 17t sprocket. Changing wheels seems an odd way to address a perceived inability to select a gear which suits your 'more comfortable' 90-100rpm cadence, as opposed to your average cadence.

 

[figbat]

Oops, sorry for the ignition point. I was genuinely interested to learn about how other people approach challenges as it is easy to be stuck in my own solution mode. I suspected there may have been other reasons for a smaller wheel but as they were unstated I wasn’t going to assume. Now I know.

 

[weareHKR]

Why not just change to a lower gear?

I think you should perhaps take the explanation bikingdad90 has already given, and in doing so may keep the thread on topic!

 

[Jody]

The OP has used their tyre size to describe the wheels they have: but the question is: 'it possible to replace my 27.5 tyred wheel with a 622 rimmed wheel?'

If that's what the OP is after then I think you can up to 29" wheels if you have a 27.5"+ frame/fork combo. A standard 27.5 wont normally have enough clearance.

 

[Ajax Bay]

doing so may keep the thread on topic!

I will (take the clearance explanation). I note the thread's topic is 'changing wheels from 584 to 622' and not reasons to do the opposite.
ETA and remaining off topic: A better way of making it easier to maintain a higher preferred cadence (eg 90-100rpm) would be to change the chainset for one with shorter cranks.
I guess we're waiting for the OP to return with more information, in particular wrt disc brake assumption (Post #4), to help others offer useful advice.
But if the OP's MTB fork has 38+mm clearance, for the front wheel that'd be enough, finessed by a slightly narrower tyre. Mine has. Will slightly alter geometry, headtube angle and therefore handling (but not much).

 

[T4tomo]

If that's what the OP is after then I think you can up to 29" wheels if you have a 27.5"+ frame/fork combo. A standard 27.5 wont normally have enough clearance.

But only if you have disc brakes, otherwise the brake blocks wont meet the rims.

 

[Jody]

But only if you have disc brakes, otherwise the brake blocks wont meet the rims.

Fair point.

There can't be many 27/29's running V's. Even cheap as chips MTB's have discs.

 

[figbat]

Slightly relevant in terms of clearance, I replaced the 26” wheels + MTB knobblies with 700c + gravel tyres on my homebuild, so dependent on the specifics it could be fairly straightforward.

 

[Drago]

Choose your 27.5 tyres carefully and you'll end up with the same rolling radous as 700C anyway.