My appliances hate me...

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icowden

Veteran
Location
Surrey
OK, having resurrected the washing machine again, now the Dishwasher has gone on strike.
It powers on OK, but when the door is closed nothing happens. I did have some luck a couple of times but then it cut out half way through the cycle.
Switching the machine off and closing the door, it was able to drain quite happily.

Anyone got any ideas, or has it gone to Dishwasher heaven? It's about 10 years old and is a Hotpoint.
 

Webbo2

Senior Member
We recently replaced the fitted dishwasher that came with the house. When the guys from John Lewis came with the new. He said he fitted the one he was taking away 2 years ago a Bekio, he reckoned some of cheaper ones don’t have a lifespan of much longer than 2 years.
So ten years is pretty good.
 

si_c

Guru
Location
Wirral
Sounds like it's intermittently failing to register the door being closed, most obvious culprit would be the door close sensor (however it's done), if it's mechanical you could try cleaning it with some contact cleaner see if that helps.
 

Jameshow

Veteran
I had a candy smart one and it was possessed it would start up at 2am. Wash and not drain!
Then it stopped working I was relieved! In came my basic two knob indesit! 🤣👍
 
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icowden

icowden

Veteran
Location
Surrey
It sounds like the micro switch that detects door closure is gummed up on the inside. It happens every so often on mine. I degrease mine, but they can be bought cheaply as they are generic.

I took a look. The closure switch is pretty sound. Took it off and checked it - the switch pushes back and pushes the microswitch to tell the dishwasher it's closed. It all looks fine. No corrosion, no breakages. The rest of the top circuit board area all looks fine. Not a hair out of place, no gunk, no nothing.

Sadly, still failing to start. I'm thinking it might be the control board that's given up the ghost.
 

DaveReading

Don't suffer fools gladly (must try harder!)
Location
Reading, obvs
My English teacher at school taught us all about The Law of Inanimate Malice.
 

Way-Out-West

Well-Known Member
Location
Pinno's attic
I took a look. The closure switch is pretty sound. Took it off and checked it - the switch pushes back and pushes the microswitch to tell the dishwasher it's closed. It all looks fine. No corrosion, no breakages. The rest of the top circuit board area all looks fine. Not a hair out of place, no gunk, no nothing.

Sadly, still failing to start. I'm thinking it might be the control board that's given up the ghost.

It still could be the micro switch. Mine look clean on the outside, but greasy steam finds its way inside and fouls the contacts. The switches are easy enough to open up and a spray of contact cleaner or emery cloth on the contacts will ensure it’s operating. Be gentle with them as the switch mechanism can ping out and is a fiddle to put back.

limit-micro-switch-details-3947915354.jpg


View: https://youtu.be/vPFhzX5Bheo?si=DmSqfpvvdpPMT74a

As a side note, another item that wears out quickly is the upper spray arm seal. It’s basically a large plastic nut with a rubber seal in the centre. When the seal perishes the top arm stops working. A 30 sec job to change and it washes a whole lot better after replacing.
 
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icowden

icowden

Veteran
Location
Surrey
I have chickened out. The hotpoint took a chunk out of my thumb and the back of my hand because there are so many unfinished sharp edges in the metal. It's off to the dishwasher graveyard on Wednesday and a new SMEG Dishwasher is inbound. It was not an expensive Dishwasher and I think 10+ years is reasonable service.
 
Location
Wirral
Bit late now I know but from a former life...

Some dishwashers will have tiny leaks into the undertray where the anti leak float switch will cut power. Usual quick remedy was to tilt the DW to displace the water so the machine would start. Most DWs I encountered either restarted from where they stalled, or would reset and restart with an initial drain cycle so no drama from overflowing . A good door slam could have the same effect as tilting as some trays had tiny sidewalls (and most were never installed) properly.

The undertray is very shallow and low capacity so will stop a proper leak sharpish but pipes weeping took ages to build up to a stop condition, so a quick tilt gave a long respite! I used to do a bit of building maintenance on winter holiday lets and those DWs that suffered minor leaks came in all price brackets, posher machines had inlet water solenoids for high pressure leaks but otherwise they all seemed much of a muchness.
The life forms that grew in the undertray damp were revolting xx(
 

cyberknight

As long as I breathe, I attack.
Had to have the engineer out to repair the boiler twice in the last week !
luckily the second visit was to fix the same issue so we were not charged twice but its annoying .
 

CXRAndy

Guru
Location
Lincs
The most common issues are to do with drainage and associated pipes to sensors. Thorough clean out the waste in the bottom of the dishwasher. Use a hose pipe to flush the drain of any food debris. Use a small cup to remove any water that won't be removed by the pump when the door is shut.

Regularly run the dishwasher on maximum heat and duration to basically self flush the pipework
 
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