My tips for cycling in France

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ianrauk

Tattooed Beat Messiah
Location
Rides Ti2
OK, myself and @Trickedem did our ride/tour home from Geneva. Into France, over the Jura mountains, through France and on to Calais.
So a few observations on my first long road trip through France. Some of these may have already been mentioned in posts above. None of this is in contradiction to anything else that may have been posted by others but solely our own observations from the ride.

The French roads.
We mainly traveled on D roads. There doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason as to the numbering system (ie low numbers/high numbers). One D road can be totally car free for miles upon miles, yet another can have juggernauts and cars motoring along at fast speeds. The French drivers do like to speed along these roads though, as they are mainly very long and straight with great sight-lines due to there being not much in the way of hedges like we have in the British countryside. This is quite disconcerting at first, being used to being past on the right rather then the left. However, the majority of drivers give you plenty of room. In 6 days I can count on one hand the number of close passes we had. One of those a Brit and It was noted that the closer you get to the UK the closer the passes seem to be :rolleyes:

In 535 miles we must have come across 1 crappy potholed road. We were continually amazed at how good the roads are. Humble D road back routes had some of the most glorious, smooth, clear tarmac. We should be ashamed of the state of the UK's equivalent roads, really shameful.

The distances between small villages and towns can be quite far. But if you can see a church steeple in the distance it means a village ahead. For food and sustenance, stock up either before you set off for the day or stop in the morning time at a Boulangerie, as at around lunch time, most shops in small towns and villages close... for lunch. There may be a bar/tabac open (if there is one), but not all do food. Don't let the look of a Tabac/bar from the outside put you off. Some may look a little shabby, but the welcome was always warm and the service was always good. In a small village, the Tabacs/bars seem to be very close to the church.

Almost no one in the countryside or small towns speaks English or even attempts to. And that's fair enough, why should they?. However, a mix of smiles and a smattering of French usually does the trick and you can get by and it's a bit fun trying. A Bonjour, Bonsoir, Merci, Au Revior goes a long away. Upon leaving, a Bon Courage was usually given in return (also heard shouted at us by random people as we pass). Also walk into a bar/tabac and most people will say Bonjour to you as you walk in. It was quite fun walking onto a place and getting your Bonjour in first then getting back a chorus of replies.

Priorite a Droite.
Now I was a bit worried about this after reading the thread initially. However we did find that they were very few, far between and were always well signposted, Perhaps in some regions of France they are more in use and prevalent then others but we didn't find it a problem at all. Once again, French mortorists seem to be very courteous, polite and cyclist savvy. Waiting at a junction for you to pass before they proceed. The original tip was great in the sense that it did make us very aware and to look out for them.

Wild camping.
We did the hotel thing on our tour, however, we where amazed at how vast the French countryside is. I knew that France is a big country, but the scale of it, especially the agricultural areas and the woods/forests is vast. Very little seemed to be fenced in. We both did think that there would be ample places to wild camp. Many a time us old men had to stop for a waz on the road side and a few steps into a wood showed that a small tent could easy be pitched without being seen from the road (or elsewhere for that matter).

I thoroughly enjoyed our ride/time through France. Far more then I thought I would. The place is beautiful, the people are beautiful and the roads are beautiful. I can't wait to go back and discover more.
 
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Jimmy Doug

Jimmy Doug

If you know what's good for you ...
Thanks for the write up. Glad you enjoyed the ride.

Priorite a Droite.
Now I was a bit worried about this after reading the thread initially. However we did find that they were very few, far between and were always well signposted, Perhaps in some regions of France they are more in use and prevalent then others but we didn't find it a problem at all. Once again, French mortorists seem to be very courteous, polite and cyclist savvy. Waiting at a junction for you to pass before they proceed. The original tip was great in the sense that it did make us very aware and to look out for them.

The reason why you didn't have many is because you were mostly on D roads where they're very rare. They're mostly to be found on the smaller roads and in towns. I repeat what I said: not noticing them doesn't mean they're not there. They're often not signposted at all - hell, sometimes you pass them without even seeing them. Priorité á droite is not a myth. It exists and anyone cycling or driving in France must be aware of it.
Suggestion for future rides: avoid D roads as much as possible. Most are cyclable but some are very busy indeed - others are practically motorways, but this isn't always obvious on the maps.
 
Thanks for the write up. Glad you enjoyed the ride.



The reason why dn't have many is because you were mostly on D roads where they're very rare. They're mostly to be found on the smaller roads and in towns. I repeat what I said: not noticing them doesn't mean they're not there. They're often not signposted at all - hell, sometimes you pass them without even seeing them. Priorité á droite is not a myth. It exists and anyone cycling or driving in France must be aware of it.
Suggestion for future rides: avoid D roads as much as possible. Most are cyclable but some are very busy indeed - others are practically motorways, but this isn't always obvious on the maps.

Overall I found the D roads quiet when I cycled in France. They do like to go fast though as and when you do see a car, usually an old school peugeot 206 gti.
 

briantrumpet

Legendary Member
Location
Devon & Die
Suggestion for future rides: avoid D roads as much as possible. Most are cyclable but some are very busy indeed - others are practically motorways, but this isn't always obvious on the maps.
Hmm, some of my favouritest roads are D roads in my area - only a couple I'd avoid out of several 100kms, and both are straightish roads between biggish towns/cities. Mostly if you get on an unpleasant one, if you've got a map you can bail out. And if you can't bail out it's probably because it's the only road that goes the way you want to. Lots of C roads are nice too, but if you've got a time schedule to get from A to B, the D roads often take you there in a pleasant and directish way. It's also worth bearing in mind that for five or six weeks in the summer some D roads that are lovely the rest of the year will become quite unpleasant when full of holiday-makers as well as the normal traffic. Certainly worth trying to avoid then.
 
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Jimmy Doug

Jimmy Doug

If you know what's good for you ...
As I said in my original post, D roads are usually fine - the ones to definitely avoid are N roads. But sometimes they're far from quiet. It depends on the area to some extent. Around here there's a D road which looks like a quiet country lane on the map, but for 20kms becomes a dual carriage way limited to 110 kmh and prohibited to cyclists. Having said that, most D roads are probably quieter than most A roads in the UK - everything's relative I suppose. In France some roads are so quiet you can cycle for ages before a car overtakes you - but these roads are generally not D roads.
 

Trickedem

Guru
Location
Kent
I planned the route for @ianrauk and my tour. We did use a few c roads, but in the main, the route was determined by finding big enough towns to have accommodation, but that were sufficiently far apart to allow us to do the trip in 7 days. This then really necessitated using D Roads, which as Ian said were mainly fine. We stayed in F1, IBIS Budget, IBIS Styles and Premier Classe. Which were all quite good and had a reasonable breakfast for good money. The best hotel we stayed in by far was an independent. http://www.motel-saint-michel.fr/#!home_en/c8mg We were made to feel very welcome and had some great food and a brilliant breakfast.
 
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Jimmy Doug

Jimmy Doug

If you know what's good for you ...
Love the mistake in the blurb of this hotel:
We are located south of the Champagne - Ardennes and Burgundy doors on the main road 974, 50 km north of Dijon and 15 km south of Langres.
I'll remember the place next time I'm 974, 50 km north of Dijon!
 
Love the mistake in the blurb of this hotel:
We are located south of the Champagne - Ardennes and Burgundy doors on the main road 974, 50 km north of Dijon and 15 km south of Langres.
I'll remember the place next time I'm 974, 50 km north of Dijon!
Lost in translation, Jimmy, as I'm sure you guessed. If you look at the page en français, it makes perfect sense!
 
F1, IBIS Budget, IBIS Styles and Premier Classe. Which were all quite good and had a reasonable breakfast for good money.
F1, Ibis and the like all provide accommodation similar to Travelodge, Premier etc in the uk - basic bed, bath and (usually) clean, for a low price. A new one (to me) in this format is B&B Hotels. Useful when showing up at after 23.00, being turned away from a Campanile because it was full, nobody on reception but room purchase and access via a vending machine. I kid you not! Cost and standard similar to those listed. Not sure I'd hurry back but useful nonetheless.
 
The best hotel we stayed in by far was an independent.
This is often the case and worth looking for. Some have been same family owned for years.
Downside is that they have potential to be horrible - the worst hotel I've ever stayed in was an independent in france. But it was many years ago and it has probably been condemned by now!
 

RichardB

Slightly retro
Location
West Wales
F1 hotels very basic - moulded plastic fittings, industrial carpet, shower/loo down the corridor, shared with other residents. Often used by teams of foreign contractors, so sometimes noisy and shared facilities less than pristine. However, 24-hour access, so if you rock up late at night, as long as you have a credit card you have somewhere to sleep. Cheap, unlimited breakfast (€6 last time I was in one). Rooms are usually double plus single, and you pay for the room, not the occupants. I'm quite happy with them (although there is much better to be had) but my daughter hated the shared facilities. B&B very similar, but usually with en-suite, so much more privacy, and a bit nicer. Both are well below Travelodge standard IMO, but cheap and cheerful. I've used both on motorcycle trips. One drawback is that they are usually located on an industrial estate some way from the town centre, so although they usually have lockable gates and pretty good security, you can feel a little isolated. Best thought of as a simple stopover on your way to somewhere nicer.

Last trip we did, we stayed in IBIS and were well pleased with them. I would rate them similar to the UK's Premier Inn - a notch above Travelodge but not the Ritz. They tend to be in better locations (although often in a retail park) and usually have a medium-to-good restaurant attached. Excellent breakfasts, all you can eat and a take-away fruit bowl which is a nice touch. We found the staff extremely helpful in all we stayed in. We would definitely use them again. Independent hotels, we've had wonderful and awful. I'd stay in one if I had done the research first, but with IBIS you know you're getting a consistent 'product'.

One remark about France I always like to get in ... the French are very proud of their country, heritage and language, probably more than the Brits are. If you respect that, you won't find a nicer bunch of people anywhere. My French is rough and ready (schoolboy standard plus adult confidence, good accent but lousy grammar), but I always, always start any conversation in French and try my best. In 'La France Profonde', where we like to go, not many people speak English, but if you try your French first, they will always help you out, and you get there in the end. Apart from once in Paris, I have never once had a French person be rude to me, and I like to think it is because I respect their culture and language, and don't assume that speaking French = English, only louder and slower. Sorry to bang on about this, but so many people I know and work with say the French are rude and aloof, and it just ain't true. If you worked in a shop and a customer shouted at you in German and expected you to understand, you'd be rude and aloof too. Vive la France, especially this week.
 
Near Bagnolles I asked a young couple in my awful French where the train station was and they burst out laughing. They then kindly gave directions to Lourdes but I could tell they were nearly corpsing.
 

briantrumpet

Legendary Member
Location
Devon & Die
In 'La France Profonde', where we like to go, not many people speak English, but if you try your French first, they will always help you out, and you get there in the end. Apart from once in Paris, I have never once had a French person be rude to me, and I like to think it is because I respect their culture and language, and don't assume that speaking French = English, only louder and slower. Sorry to bang on about this, but so many people I know and work with say the French are rude and aloof, and it just ain't true. If you worked in a shop and a customer shouted at you in German and expected you to understand, you'd be rude and aloof too. Vive la France, especially this week.
Absolument about doing your best in French. The nice thing about 'having a go' in the remoter parts of France is that they just want to understand you, and will be patient, even if they still talk back to you too quickly for you to understand properly - actually, that's a sort of compliment, as they aren't taking you as an ignorant foreigner. Although all French children learn English at school, many of them rarely get to use it after they've left school.
 
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