N+1 = MTB?

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.

derrick

The Glue that binds us together.
I had a quick look in Evans today - I quite like the look of the Pinnacle Willow versus the Myka as it has a lockout fork

However, I do wonder how much I will actually use an MTB when I already have 2 bikes :whistle:


You need a mtb, would not be without mine, one for commuting and one for the forest, + the road bike,
you need three bikes, lol
 

DCLane

Found in the Yorkshire hills ...
My new n+1 is a MTB, making 3 bikes (main road, winter road, MTB)
 

Peteaud

Veteran
Location
South Somerset
OP
OP
vickster

vickster

Legendary Member
I am in London tomorrow, may have a look around - all my local LBSs have really poor selections of MTBs

I am a bit befuddled on sizing, some say 17", some 18", maybe even a 19" - about 5'9.5, longish legs (33" or so, reasonable arm length for a woman, but of course smaller hands and narrower shoulders than an equivalent sized chap)
 

Cubist

Still wavin'
Location
Ovver 'thill
I am in London tomorrow, may have a look around - all my local LBSs have really poor selections of MTBs

I am a bit befuddled on sizing, some say 17", some 18", maybe even a 19" - about 5'9.5, longish legs (33" or so, reasonable arm length for a woman, but of course smaller hands and narrower shoulders than an equivalent sized chap)
If you are serious about riding it off road then go for the 17". You need to be able to chuck an MTB about a bit, and although a female specific bike will have a shorter top tube and cockpit setup, the smaller size frame will make it more friendly. Standover is quite critical on a MTB, and when you're in pedalling mode you'll have loads of seatpost sticking out, but generally frames are designed to run that way. . I am just under 6'0" with a 33 inside leg, and ride an 18". See the amount of visible seatpost here
rideout1June037.jpg
 
OP
OP
vickster

vickster

Legendary Member
Many thanks for the advice... I think it'll be more the grassy, rough stuff type of off road, than true forests and tree roots and rocks type of stuff (if you knew how accident prone I am, you'd think this is wise) :laugh:

Now, are disc brakes needed - if I were to push the budget to £400-450, what could I get? I do like the idea of lock out forks. And what about the 29er suggestion (if could afford one)?

4* on Bike radar for this http://www.evanscycles.com/products/jamis/durango-1-2011-mountain-bike-ec026072

The range of MTBs is astonishing - I thought there were a lot of road and hybrid bikes - how do you see the wood for the trees?
 

Cubist

Still wavin'
Location
Ovver 'thill
It's very much the same as road bikes, in other words manufacturers source a frame, then equip it at various price points with varying (and often predictable) major components, then finish it off with little bits of flair in the finishing kit. SO, you'll find most bikes at the £300 price point have much the same drivetrain, forks, (brakes often differ) and alternate between budget main brand wheels/hubs and the occasional own brand masterpiece.

For every step change you'll be finding another £100-£150, so the next budget point will be £500, then £650, then £800 then £1000. If you think as a rule of thumb that the £300 bikes will have Altus drivetrain, Alivio on 500s, Deore on 650, SLX on 850 and (some) XT on 1000, and the forks will increase in spec too. So expect say RockShox Dart on £500, Rebas or fox floats on 1000 bikes and you start to see the picture.

The difference in frames will be subtle. Most will be using 6061 Alu progressing to 7005, with butting, double-butting and hydroforming appearing at the incremental points. Geometry will differ, with Euro-centric bikes being racier with steep head tubes for fire road speed, to slacker head angles and longer travel forks on Brit -centric trail bashers, so what you intend to ride will determine your choice. You sound like you would be looking for a 100mm travel XC bike, but don't ignore European "trekking" bikes.

The fact that they all use much the same kit will help you to narrow the choices down to simple stuff like colour, love at first sight and other niceties. Don't get hung up on finishing kit. most OEM stuff is pretty naff anyway, and you'll soon want to treat yourself to a nice pair of lock-on grips, or a nicer saddle, a wider pair of bars or a shorter stem, so don't base your choice on them necessarily!

Some brands tend to offer half a grade better kit than others (Cube spring to mind) where others appear, initially to be a bit dearer than others (Specialized a good example) at the price point.

Fork lockout is not as important as some would have you think. I rarely lock mine, and they are super plush. I simply alter my pedalling technique to keep the weight off the front. The only exception is steep tarmac climbs. Far more important is a half-decent set of forks with damping adjustment, so that your bike doesn't ping you off on the next rut.

Get discs if you can afford them. Full stop!
 
OP
OP
vickster

vickster

Legendary Member
Wow, thanks Cubist :thumbsup:

My surfing has thrown up a couple of interesting looking options - although not too keen on buying blind online

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=75099

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=71974#ProductDescription (Lord knows what the sizing is, never heard of Corratec)

I understand Hydraulic discs are the ones, while the cheaper bikes have mechanical discs. I have had both Alivio (previous Sirrus) and Deore (current Sirrus), either is fine

The cheap Specialized appeals on price, but does look very bog basic - I need a bike that is comfy even if it costs more (tbh £100 more is neither here nor there, but not over £500) or I won't ride it. Weight is quite important as I will probably want to stick it in the boot, needs to be maneuverable

I am checking out 2011 models as hopefully there is a deal to be had?
 
Top Bottom